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71_Bronco

New Band Saw

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Bill D

You can replace that switch with a 30 amp, 2 pole switch from Home Depot.  It's suitable for use as a motor starter for up to 1 HP motors.  I put the blue urithane tires on mine and they work great.

 

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formariz

You did real well. You can use a regular 15 amp light switch. I would rewire the entire saw. Light is not the one I expected but it’s good to have it. When those tires get old sometimes they get too soft and the pressure from blade “squeezes” them out. You need new tires. After you change them keep tension only when in use. They will last much longer. If you need it I can help you find the right tension for whatever blade you get. The markings on any bandsaw are only a rough guide and not accurate. Also no two identical blades require the same tension. They all have a sweet spot.

Edited by formariz
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71_Bronco

So I did some calculating. With the current pulleys and motor, I'm looking at about 3,900 feet per minute that the saw blade is doing.

 

For steel, the recomended I found is 100 feet per minute. With this 100 feet per minute goal, my 14" tires would be needing to spin at roughly 22 rpm.

 

I dont think I can do that with a simple pulley swap lol

 

I was looking online at some gear-boxes for 1750 rpm motors that gave an output rpm of 33 or something in that neighborhood. That plus a 2:1 pulley ratio would yield me the 22 rpm I'd need.

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formariz
On 6/26/2021 at 4:08 PM, 71_Bronco said:

So I did some calculating. With the current pulleys and motor, I'm looking at about 3,900 feet per minute that the saw blade is doing.

 

For steel, the recomended I found is 100 feet per minute. With this 100 feet per minute goal, my 14" tires would be needing to spin at roughly 22 rpm.

 

I dont think I can do that with a simple pulley swap lol

 

I was looking online at some gear-boxes for 1750 rpm motors that gave an output rpm of 33 or something in that neighborhood. That plus a 2:1 pulley ratio would yield me the 22 rpm I'd need.

Check this out. I experimented with this idea for another function which was using an electric motor for my treadle grindstone. I used all parts I had here. It worked but it was not practical due to its size and the fact that I also need to keep it outside ( a gear reduction k91 was the ideal solution). As long as you have the space this is a good system, it works and can be tweaked easily by changing a pulley or two. I probably would eliminate that base altogether and build an entire new unit as shown. You can then also have the saw at the height it is most convenient for the type of work you do.

Bandsaw Speed Changer-Reducer | Make: (makezine.com)

bandsaw speed changer / reducer - YouTube

 

Edited by formariz

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71_Bronco
On 6/27/2021 at 5:11 PM, formariz said:

Check this out. I experimented with this idea for another function which was using an electric motor for my treadle grindstone. I used all parts I had here. It worked but it was not practical due to its size and the fact that I also need to keep it outside ( a gear reduction k91 was the ideal solution). As long as you have the space this is a good system, it works and can be tweaked easily by changing a pulley or two. I probably would eliminate that base altogether and build an entire new unit as shown. You can then also have the saw at the height it is most convenient for the type of work you do.

Bandsaw Speed Changer-Reducer | Make: (makezine.com)

bandsaw speed changer / reducer - YouTube

 

 

That's a pretty cool solution. I like that it can operate as both wood and metal. I assume it would also be a good idea to swap to a wood blade vs using the fine-tooth metal blade.

 

I also looked at my SF/M calculation again and realized I made an error. I am currently at about 3,200 SF/M blade speed.

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formariz

As for the blade used that can turn into a really pain if you have to change it constantly. It all depends how much you use it for wood or metal. A metal blade will cut wood without damage to it if you only occasionally use it for that and in thin materials. Some wood blades as long as it they have enough teeth will cut metal but they will dull quickly even at the low speed. 
 Most metals need on average 250 to 300 FPM.

I don't use mine for metal but have and still am considering doing that modification. Different speeds with certain blades are better for resawing certain woods. It all has to do with the efficiency of the gullets carrying the dust away and keeping the blade cool. I just don’t want to build a box and change the foot print of the saw since my floor space is limited. I though about a similar system but keeping motor where it is now and have the second set of pulleys vertical rather than horizontal.

This system is good because it’s relatively inexpensive compared to anything else and quick to change to regular wood cutting version.

 

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reginab
On 6/23/2021 at 10:00 AM, 71_Bronco said:

Picking up this little gem this weekend for my garage.

 

Saw the post on FBM about 45 minutes after it was posted. Luckily, I was the first one to contact the seller, and struck up a deal.

 

I'll get some more pics after I get it. My plan is to figure out a way to slow it down to use with metal. Currently, it is the single-speed version without the speed-reducing gearbox.

 

I'm going to go through it, probably order new urethane tires, and may do a bearing kit depending on how everything looks.

 

Saw.jpg.915bf31fd9645d046cc21431df304b5b.jpg

 

I found a guy in NY near Albany that restores these and other equipment. PM me if you want his contact info. He has a shop with lots of parts. I picked up the open base for my bandsaw a couple of weeks ago.

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