Jump to content
Ben444

C-175 Transmission Drive Clutch Pulley

Recommended Posts

Ben444

Hi. New to the group. I just bought this tractor and mowing with it for the first time today all of the sudden I had no forward or reverse (it is a hydro). I noticed the drive belt was loose so after pulling off the cover I could see it had slipped off of the drive clutch pulley. I noticed the pulley was in pretty bad shape and would barely turn. I lubricated it but when I put the belt back on it and started the tractor it would not turn. It does hold enough tension on the belt to "work" but I am sure this is wearing the belt out. I didn't see an obvious way of getting the pulley off and was wondering if anyone had any experience replacing one. Where would I find one?

 

 

tractor pulley.pngimage.png.8122938bcb04f80c26f3a4bb23cb6619.png

 

Edited by Ben444
add another

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

The idler number is 7434 changed to 112425 changed to 92-7101. I usually use Parts Tree or RCPW.  I have had good fast service from both. If ordering one part I go with RCPW as the shipping is added into the price,

If ordering several parts I go with Parts Tree as they don't have the shipping added to each part. It is usually not much difference with either one.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
9 hours ago, Ben444 said:

I didn't see an obvious way of getting the pulley off and was wondering if anyone had any experience replacing one.

 

 

Remove the running board and you should be able to get to the pulley easily. Just 2 carriage bolts I think.

 

Call (507) 213-6346 Wheel Horse Parts and More.  Tell him what you have, what you want, and he will fix you up.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Thanks for the replies.  I can get to the pulley, just not sure how to get the pulley off. Is there a bolt that holds it on or ?   I didn't spend a lot of time looking at it but I didn't see a bolt or anything obvious. Thought maybe someone on this board may have replaced one before and could give me some guidance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

There is a bolt. It has a very thin head. There is not a nut on the other end. There is also a spacer, and a washer in the linkage. Pay close attention to how things come apart. Put it back the smae way. I would not take it apart until you have the new pulley in hand, and ready to install.20210601_074649.jpg.4313fdfa205229b24a3eb24bff3962d2.jpg

 

317261623_bnw.png.5e283a2c9849ce4155dca9972b39bd4f.png

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Sounds like Greg has got you covered! 

:WRS:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Thanks Gregor and Lee1977 !   That is exactly what I needed.  Any idea what the part number is on the knob at the end of the lever (labelled 47 and 48 in the diagram). Or if you can point me where I can look up the part numbers myself that would be great.

Edited by Ben444
added a question

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

click on fuzy pic to download parts manual

 

 

handle.JPG

handle 2.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Thanks pfrederi ! 

Edited by Ben444
spelling error

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Again thanks to all who have helped me on this. I did order a new pulley and recovered the bolt and the spacer from my original but not the wave washer (see parts diagram above). Problem is, the wave washer is no longer available. Bolt is 3/8-16x1 1/2. Can I just use any 3/8 wave washer? Does the Wheel Horse wave washer have any distinct chracteristics such as type of metal, etc?

 

Also, the two diagrams below seem to differ in the placement of the wave washer (#36 vs #41), in term of which side of the handle it goes. Can anyone tell me which is correct?

image.png.10a0ee179389615d5303b72ee854fecd.pngimage.png.c961d1c3fff70d75223e9793c78814de.png

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ben444
correction

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

Personally, I would wave :greetings-wavegreen: buh bye, to the washer and tell it to have a nice day. If I didn't have one on hand.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I just use 3/8" wave washers from McMaster (only because I live a long way from a hardware store.

 

They do make a difference in rattles /vibration

Edited by pfrederi
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
2 hours ago, Ben444 said:

the two diagrams below seem to differ in the placement of the wave washer (#36 vs #41), in term of which side of the handle it goes.

It will end up in the same place.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

 

15 hours ago, pfrederi said:

They do make a difference in rattles /vibration

I may  have to re-think my stand on the wave washer. Pulled this link from my 125. The wave washer was missing.

20210717_063119.jpg.2c464045c5115e619b12825dd377595b.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

All better now. Washers on order.

20210717_091939.jpg.65e26f030bd718c4460ebc282799bff7.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Again thanks to all who have helped me on this. I did order a new pulley and recovered the bolt and the spacer from my original but not the wave washer (see parts diagram above). Problem is, the wave washer is no longer available. Bolt is 3/8-16x1 1/2. Can I just use any 3/8 wave washer? I see them online ranging from a dollar to 22 dollars. Does the Wheel Horse wave washer have any distinct chracteristics such as type of metal, etc?

 

 

Edited by Ben444
correction

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ben444

Finally got everything back together and mowed my yard with it. Works great. Now I almost don't want to sell it but it is way too much for my yard. Not sure what I was thinking when I bought it. I have had my 655 for 40 years and love it. Going to concentrate on getting everything fixed on that tractor. It works better for my yard.

 

I can't thank you all enough for all of the help you gave me. This forum is awesome.

 

-Ben

 

 

image_2021-07-18_150039.png

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
On 7/16/2021 at 3:41 PM, pfrederi said:

I just use 3/8" wave washers from McMaster

I ordered some 3/8 wave washers from McMaster Carr, and installed one this morning. I don't think 3/8 is quite right. When you put a 3/8 wave washer on a 3/8 bolt, and tighten down the bolt, it's not very wavy anymore. I believe the wave washer has to fit over the shoulder of part # 44 in the above diagram. I ordered some wave washers from Partstree by part number, rather than size. I'll see what I get.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
39 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I believe the wave washer has to fit over the shoulder of part # 44 in the above diagram

 

I'm trying to recall the last time I had mine apart, but I believe the wave washer does have to fit over the spacer in order to take up the 'slack' between the lever and the bracket.

 

It needs to work as a 'spring' between the two parts, so it's going to 'float' between them.

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor

I also seem to have a problem with the belt and idler pulley. A couple of days ago when I took it apart, and again this morning, I found the belt as it is in the pic. I ordered a new pulley in hopes of correcting this, but I'm not too hopeful.  The pulley on the PTO is on the motor as far as it can possibly go.

20210721_061135.jpg.867303c593f609736a56fb5a1e8f28da.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
15 minutes ago, Gregor said:

The pulley on the PTO is on the motor as far as it can possibly go.

 

Makes me wonder about the placement of the Briggs on the frame.  Maybe the engine is hanging out a little too far and the PTO pulley is not in the same plane as the idler?

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gregor
5 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Makes me wonder about the placement of the Briggs on the frame.

This is on my 125. 12hp Kohler on shaker plate with aluminum replacement mounts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175
9 minutes ago, Gregor said:

This is on my 125. 12hp Kohler on shaker plate with aluminum replacement mounts.

 

Ohhhh...  well that's odd then!  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jeff-C175

I was just poking around looking at various pulleys on the net and came across this information.

 

My parts book lists a 7434 as the idler for the 175.  It's been stated here that the 92-7101 is ultimately the current superseded part number.

 

On 5/31/2021 at 11:47 PM, Lee1977 said:

7434 changed to 112425 changed to 92-7101

 

https://www.mfgsupply.com/mower/mowerpull/mowerpullflat.html

 

This page shows that there may in fact be a bit of difference between the 7434 and the 92-7101 dimensions, but it's doubtful that it would make any operational difference, either will work obviously.

 

image.png.7c1918bc3fc9aa23d2d72ca894e54ebe.pngimage.png.5ce358898fbc6169b44e976b2886352a.png   

 

The A and B dimensions are a little different.  Not by much...  the "B" dimension is 1/4" bigger on the 7101 and the "A" dimension is 1/2" bigger... more 'sidewall' so to speak.

 

The larger B dimension would spin the idler a bit more slowly, probably a good thing.

 

I can't vouch for the quality of these cheaper pulleys, but it seems that there are some dimensional differences if this page is to be believed.

 

ADDED SIDE NOTE:

image.png.d8ffed70fc29e47e232e82a69bf37dd2.png

 

The 6719 number is the idler pulley that is shown on the 05-42MS01 42" side discharge mower deck.  So that 92-7101 part would fit either application.  Good to know, don't need to keep 2 different spares 'in stock' if you run a 42SD !

 

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

I have used a few of the unsealed bearings as Jeff posted but I only buy idlers with seal bearings. I can replace the seal bearings or pop the seal and add grease. 

Yes they cost three or times more then the unsealed and it took me fifty years of hard work to get able not to worry about the extra cost.

Edited by Lee1977
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...