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Maxwell-8

Show off your hub-puller

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tmix61
8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

The hub on a D Series can be a real bear.  The Flange of the hub is thin relative to the long length of the hub body (and the surface area for rust to hold on to)  You have to pull from the back.  It bent the thick wall sq tubes but it finally came off

 

 

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I happen to run across your picture last night I don't understand how you got that puller behind the axle did you cut the piece of plastic tube off so you can sneak it around the axle I don't see any cutouts to go around the axle with the plates that are not painted. What am I missing in this picture? If it was you and the hub was broken that much would you just take a cut off wheel and put cuts in it and chisel off and break the rest if you look real close at my broken hub it is very very grainy like the cast wasn't made very well. Kind of lost and I'm sure a hub won't be cheap!!

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pfrederi

There was no plastic sleeve on mine as it had turning brakes (which made things harder)  no cut outs just lined the plates up with the bump outs on the back of the hub.  (they have threaded hole that mount the turning brakes.  You are going to have to cut yours off and get a replacement.  Check with A to Z tractor in the vendors section here.

 

 

 

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Edited by pfrederi
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OutdoorEnvy

So an update on mine, from post #14 in this thread... Seems it was only good for one hub.  Casting didn't hold up on the second one.  I'll be looking to make another one out of something...

 

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Bill D
Posted (edited)

 

 

Any idea who made this. I missed the eBay auction.  I'd like to make one, or something similar.

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Edited by Bill D

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peter lena

@Maxwell-8  bearing separator  style / type  is the best for solid strength  against strength , flange pull , its center mounting , is its  strongest point , the outer  flange bolt on spot is its weakest , any flexing at all , will  break the flange . as also stated , you should start  days or more out , to start your  kroil  type lubrication  soaking . like to remove  set bolt , to insure  area , when you are  strength against  strength ,  with that bearing separator , and a breaker bar , 6 pt. socket  , the leverage will make it easy . just my own experience, pete   

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kpinnc

Almost all of my tractors have hub spacers, which I have found very helpful pulling hubs. The pull is evenly spread out, and the spacers support the hub nicely. A "spare" spacer works well even if you don't use them. All of my tractors use the 5 on 4.5 pattern. 

 

I use an old hub and drill the holes out to slip over the wheel studs. The lug nuts go all the way around, and are pulled tight against the spacer.  The hubs tend to come off easily by comparison to every other method I've used. 

 

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peter lena

@ri702bill   @pfrederi your bearing separator pictures says it all , it brings the most strength  to the flange , axel fit spot , another thing  , i is the   DISIMILAR  METALS INVOLVED , over time , with out any creeping lubricant , they bond themselves t together . a cast metal anything , is like an open sponge , for moisture , enhancement , always get after any rusty spot , for an initial attempt  to get it moving , typically takes days / weeks , to attempt a move .   rather have an oil stain / spread than , frozen metal any day . keep experimenting , pete 

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ohiofarmer
On 4/9/2022 at 11:28 PM, oliver2-44 said:

My C160 has had the right rear seal leaking for 2 years. Last winter I tried to pull the hub by it never moved and I stopped before I broke it. Figured a year of leak soaking would help. So I rigged this up using a 2nd hub to reinforce the one being pulled. I put nuts as spacers between the 2 hubs to fill in for the raised centers of the hubs. Initially I cranked my center pulling bolt as tight as I dared and walked away for a while. It had moved when I returned and came on off from there. 

 

   I see something right here. If you are concerned that the original hub could fracture, more spacers could be added and a c clamp or an f clamp could be added to spread the load some more between the threaded rods. Or you could also add oversize heavy washers or some drilled half inch bars on the back side of the hub...-ohiofarmer
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    i see something right here. If you are still afraid

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oliver2-44
10 hours ago, ohiofarmer said:

    

    i see something right here. If you are still afraid

No, thankfully it moved, then kept moving.

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Bill D
Posted (edited)

Made this hub puller tonight.  Used an old hub with a damaged keyway as a template.  Used a U-bolt nut and the puller screw from my pitman arm puller.  Came out well.

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Edited by Bill D
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peter lena

@Bill D  think your very solid back up plate and back up spacers , eliminated the cast flange flex , when you are solid , over strong , the mechanical advantage , gets the edge .  perfect visual example of , a solid move point , no flexing . good job , pete

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Bill D
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Bill D  think your very solid back up plate and back up spacers , eliminated the cast flange flex , when you are solid , over strong , the mechanical advantage , gets the edge .  perfect visual example of , a solid move point , no flexing . good job , pete

Thanks Pete.  I'll definitely be using it as shown in the photos.  I don't trust my weld enough to flip it the other way, and my welder isn't strong enough for proper penetration on steel that thick.  Welding the nut on is more for placement.

Edited by Bill D
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cleat

Luckily for me one hub pulled easily due to a seal leak on this spare rear end.

The other hub was stuck tight.

The set screws were removed yesterday and Kroil sprayed in.

I used 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts between the two hubs sandwiching a snap-on puller.

I used the flat adapter on the puller screw.

A small impact gun was used to prevent breakage of anything.

Success...Both hubs now off.

Taper punch removed the woodruff keys from the axle shafts.

 

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