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Maxwell-8

Show off your hub-puller

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Maxwell-8

As we all now, if you want to work on your :wh: transmission (bearings, seals, gears, HI/LOW fork), you need to take off the hubs. 

These things can be a real pain in the bud to take off. 

Like many members like @ebinmaine always points out, a 3 jaw puller is a big no-no!

What does your hub puller look like? Made out of an old hub? 

 

This topic is already gonna start bad, with my puller.:lol: 

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I used a thick plate scrape steel, and I have 3 different lengths of rods from an old lawn mower steeringshaft to push the hub off the axle, but i made 2 mistakes :eusa-doh:. luckily I didn't damage anything but, she will be improved before next use.

Mistake 1: You should use 5 bolts instead of 3.

Mistake 2: Don't use the treads of the hub itself. Work with a bolts, nuts and washers.

 

NOW, show me how it should be done! 

 

Edited by Maxwell-8
Can an admin move this to the transmission section, where I think it is more suited. Thanks!
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peter lena

@MAXWELL-8,  in addition to all types of pullers , I typically or rarely see any related lubrication , what I do see is rust . regularly go after anything that is rusty , if you are going to pull a hub , pull out the set screw / bolt , and aerosol lube it , also both ends of its setting , days or weeks before your attempt. chances are the the presence of a creeping lube will work its way into a " working " hub movement . like I have often said , when you see the rust running  /  tracking out , you have something that will move. just my own experience , pete 

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ohiofarmer

I built one for the front bearing group on a 4WD 3500 Dodge Ram.  What you can do is tighten the big bolt and tap it with a hammer each time you increase the pressure. the change in the pitch of the "ring' the metal makes tells you that something is moving and you can feel that it is easier to tighten.  Those little air chisels can also help the penetrating oil move a bit.

  I told a few dealership mechanics about my homeade bearing puller, and they made one and liked it.

  i use a broken hub for my puller, but some GM disc brake rotors are very close to the same bolt patters. i should think that enlarge the holes a bit and it might work out

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oliver2-44

My C160 has had the right rear seal leaking for 2 years. Last winter I tried to pull the hub by it never moved and I stopped before I broke it. Figured a year of leak soaking would help. So I rigged this up using a 2nd hub to reinforce the one being pulled. I put nuts as spacers between the 2 hubs to fill in for the raised centers of the hubs. Initially I cranked my center pulling bolt as tight as I dared and walked away for a while. It had moved when I returned and came on off from there. 
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earlleecliffton

My take on this,recycled hub

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953 nut

I have a bottle jack puller that I have not taken a picture of     :hide:    but it is very much like the one @meadowfield made. I have only had one hub it wouldn't pull and that one went to the machine shop for the 100 ton press and some heat (my 20 ton press wouldn't budge it).

1459325090_bottlejackhubpuller.JPG.e51664e95c0be349f4b16cd28b47c533.JPG

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gt14rider

Made this for my gt14 

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ri702bill
On 5/11/2021 at 8:49 AM, lynnmor said:

I wanted to produce these, but decided the price would need to be too high.

Tell me about it - the price of steel has shot up my more than 1/3rd over the last year.

 

Here is my version using a Snap-on puller screw and a HF Large Bearing Seperator...

 

Front View Assy.JPG

Rear View Assy.JPG

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lynnmor
3 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Tell me about it - the price of steel has shot up my more than 1/3rd over the last year.

 

Here is my version using a Snap-on puller screw and a HF Large Bearing Separator...

 

Some Wheel Horse tractors have a plastic thrust washer behind the hub and there is no space to grab it there.  Of course some older models have considerable space. 

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

Of course some older models have considerable space. 

Yup - this was made to remove 1979 C81 hubs that have a little more than 1-1/4" of space. There is only about 1/8 inch of space on the 502 and 702...

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OutdoorEnvy

Love it when something actually works out!  So made up this hub puller using a flywheel from a honda gcv160 engine(they don't have cooling fins).  This was from a scrap engine off a walk behind mower.  I intended to use a 4 ton bottle jack for the press but needed the back plate and didn't have anything suitable and didn't want to buy a plate.  So I marked off the wheel hub holes and drilled out the matching pattern on the flywheel.  Used 3/8 rod so it would be a pass through on both the flywheel plate side, and for the hub.  Used washers and nuts to lock it down.  3 ended up being enough.  I went slow and watch for oddities.  I did let this thing soak for 2 weeks hitting it with penetrating oil 2-3 times a week.  In the keyway hole and the lock bolt hole.  I'm sure that helped.  It broke free pretty easily and came out the rest of the way just fine.  Total cost was about $15.  Already had the jack so didn't count that.  Just the rod and hardware.  It was nice that the rim of the flywheel helped to lock in the base of the jack.  Made slipping out a non-issue.  Hope this helps someone out!  This has been a great thread so wanted to keep it going!    

 

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lynnmor
40 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 It broke free pretty easily and came out the rest of the way just fine.  Total cost was about $15. 

 

oYG4lCll.jpg

 

 

Quick, go buy a lottery ticket!

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OutdoorEnvy
10 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

Quick, go buy a lottery ticket!

 

This was my first one.  So easy means there was nothing violent or crazy that happened, nothing broke and I didn't injure myself so that's always an easy win in my book!  :D   It took a few hard pumps but then gave it up.  I'm guessing that' not the norm then???

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Bill D
On 5/11/2021 at 8:49 AM, lynnmor said:

I wanted to produce these, but decided the price would need to be too high.

 

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A good tool is worth it.   I think you should make those.  

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peter lena

@Maxwell-8  you know what  I  had forgotten that we used to use on tough spots ?   flange bolt on a  weighted slide hammer ! we would be in a tough jammed spot , weld a solid steel rod to a bolt on flange , have a weighted slide on the solid rod , with a welded nut on the end , and slide impact to get things going , that would be something that would be easy to put together , and try out . brain fart , pete

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gt14rider

Working on a new puller, works, needs a few tweaks 

 

 

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OldWorkHorse

Havnt got a chance to use it yet, but I just made this puller to make my life easier!

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tmix61

Made this puller at work the 2-ton bottle jack didn't work so then I put a porta power and work great on one hub the next tub wasn't so successful now I have to make something else!!!! Think I will just take a chisel and chisel it off and smash it I don't think there's any saving this one have to look for a different hub

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Blasterdad

Many ways to skin a cat, I use 2 of my pullers combined into one.

**DISCLAIMER** I have never personally skinned a cat :scared-eek: & no cat's were harmed during the removal of this hub...:laughing-rolling:

 

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tmix61
4 minutes ago, Blasterdad said:

Many ways to skin a cat, I use 2 of my pullers combined into one.

**DISCLAIMER** I have never personally skinned a cat :scared-eek: & no cat's were harmed during the removal of this hub...:laughing-rolling:

 

IMG_0311.JPG.06b5fef0ed28b05eab350cad0f6f0867.JPGIMG_0310.JPG.3d1984900ad838d78f2b971ad7a66a6d.JPGIMG_0312.JPG.71f45293dfbd61c6867bd23ec9adbadb.JPG

 

Yeah that's a little tiny hub mine's twice the size twice the fun as you can see

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rmaynard

Here is mine. The only change is that all hardware is now Grade 8.

 

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, tmix61 said:

Made this puller at work the 2-ton bottle jack didn't work so then I put a porta power and work great on one hub the next tub wasn't so successful now I have to make something else!!!! Think I will just take a chisel and chisel it off and smash it I don't think there's any saving this one have to look for a different hub

IMG_20230110_173452259.jpg

 

 

 

The hub on a D Series can be a real bear.  The Flange of the hub is thin relative to the long length of the hub body (and the surface area for rust to hold on to)  You have to pull from the back.  It bent the thick wall sq tubes but it finally came off

 

 

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