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carliskm

D200 Won't Shift Into Forward Or Reverse

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carliskm

Hello. First time tractor owner. Have been reading threads looking for information but not sure what my issue is. Bought a D200 a few months back. Tractor ran well when I first got it. Sometimes a little rough getting into gear but good overall. I made the mistake of pushing the tractor out of the garage to jump start from my truck. Forgot to open the push valve. After I made that mistake the tractor will not go into forward or reverse. When attempting to put in forward or reverse the engine stalls and it makes a loud grinding sound. I opened the push valve to attempt to move the tractor again and it does not free the wheels. Opening or closing the push valve does not seem to have an effect when trying to push the tractor. 

 

Another question I had. When rear wheels are on off the ground should they turn in opposite directions? Opening or closing the push valve doesn't change this behavior. 

 

After reading through the forums it sounds like possibly a bolt broke free and is blocking the tractor from moving when the push valve is open. Also read through the manuals and was not able to determine where I should start. Wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions. I took a video of what I just discussed see link: 

 

 

 

Thanks for taking a look. Any advice would be appreciated. 

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Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs: Carl.

 

I am not familiar with the D series tractor, but others will be here soon to offer advice.

 

I can tell you the opposite wheel turning is normal for the differential.    When you moved the tractor, did you push it by hand or with another vehicle?

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Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

@daveoman1966 and @pfrederi are hydro gurus and might be able to help troubleshoot.  I can’t see how moving it with the tow valve closed would break a bolt, but I’ve never had one apart.

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pacer

Something to check before going into the 'guts' --- that park brake set-up on the shifter arm of the earlier D's was notorious about getting misaligned.

Inside it engages so that everything is locked, check the motion of the shift lever and see if you cant see how that it is supposed to function and hopefully it will have got stuck in the engaged mode.

 

On my first D, this thing gave me heartache, going from fwd to rev & back it would tangle the linkage to engage the park mode. For some time I kept a long screwdriver on board to finagle it out of park mode.

 

On some models either WH or owners started adding a block/plate to the park brake opening (thats what I did) and then they eliminated it and added the control to the dash.

 

Hopefully one of the other members will better recognize your problem and suggest what to do - - going into that drive is a pretty big job but there is AMPLE info here to get you thru it.

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pfrederi

STOP!!!!!    Don't move the motion control anymore engine running  That grinding noise maybe your parking pawl self destructing dumping metal chips into the hydro which will seriously damage it.

 

 

  I think Pacer has identified your issue.  You have a motion control parking brake linkage issue linkage issue  You should not be moving the control into the bottom rear slot.  That slot should have been blocked off.  It was for the parking brake on very early models but brake control was replaced by the knob on the hood stand on your machine.

 

Download this manual (click on fuzzy picture to take you there.)  There is a section on the motion control/brake linkage.  It is a convoluted system and straightening it out can be a challenge but then again most any work on a D isn't easy... 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by pfrederi

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carliskm

Thanks for all the quick replies. Much appreciated @pullstart, @pacer, @pfrederi. I will check the parking brake / pawl and see if that is the issue. Will be sure to post some updates when I look this evening at it. I haven't attempted too many times to force it into gear so hopefully little or no damage. 

 

I wasn't aware about the bottom rear slot. It never seemed to work before so I was only using the rear top slot when the tractor was running. 

 

Thanks for the manual @pfrederi. Someone posted it on another thread but good to know I'm looking at the right one. 

 

@Ed Kennell I just pushed the tractor by hand so I'm hoping I didn't cause too much damage. I remember it being very tough to push and I think half the time the wheels were sliding in the gravel. 

 

Hoping this will be a quick fix but we will see. Updates to follow. Thanks everyone for your input. 

 

 

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WheelHorse520H

These guys know their stuff, I joined Friday night and had my biggest problem solved by yesterday afternoon, I am just following to learn more about these. Btw that is a nice tractor you have.

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