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By Mtndewlover
Been a member for a long while but this is my first time posting. My Father has a 417-A and I believe C series (can't remember off the top of my head but it's from the early 80s) so needless to say they got me into wheel horses and I've wanted my own ever since... Fast forward 15 years later and my wife's late grandfather passed an old GT 1100 down to us. The poor thing sat in his front yard for atleast 8 years... Probably longer going off how old the zeroturn he got to replace it was 👎. Finally got around to messing with it and so far we have spark! Looks like he replaced the throttle cable with an aftermarket unit, the cable is too long and hangs up when trying to choke, my local toro dealer said it's no longer available but did give me the part #109132 I've found one website that offers it but says it's "on order" with no eta... Any suggestions? I'm also trying to find a carb kit, spraying some gogo juice in her got her going but there multiple places on the carb leaking... One of which is a bronze colored ball on the side!? Sorry for the long post and for those that stuck around thanks for reading! If you have any tips, tricks or suggestions that would be much appreciated!
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By felker13
I am very new to finding old tractors so I am not 100% sure if I got a deal or not. Today at an estate sale I was able to pick up a Work Horse GT-1100 for $65. It needs a lot of clean up, and as of right now I am not 100% sure of the working condition. It did come with the snow thrower attachment, and even though it isn't pictured, I also got the mowing deck as well. Not sure what these are worth, but any info would be much appreciated! I have attached some photo in its current condition. Thanks!
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By KC9KAS
Working on a 1969 Raider 12 for a friend.
As far as I can tell, the engine is the correct one for this tractor. It was missing the entire air cleaner, so the owner got an air cleaner housing, but I have found that it will not fit on this carb.
The mounting holes on the air cleaner base are 1 7/8" center to center for both the horizontal and vertical holes.
The carb has been roughed up a little and the 2 horizontal holes have been "wallowed" out and a piece of the aluminum casting has actually been broke off and some type of plastic filler was used to "hide" the damage. Can't do much to repair this as the choke shaft rotates here.
The vertical holes on the carb are 1 5/8" center to center.
Can anyone shed any light on this? Is the carb for older K301 engine different than the carbs for say a middle 70's K301?
I think I will just pull this carb and install one off of another 12 hp that already has the air cleaner base on it!
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By Gadget
This is a question in two parts
Part 1: What is the recommended RPM for operation of the Onan 220? I know that sounds obvious, to many of you but not to me, and I know it depends upon what attachment you are using and what the load is.
Here's where I'm at: Throttle all the way up, I max out at about 3200, then it creeps back to around 3000. almost all I do is mow with th 48" deck, Seems that a higher RPM will give a cleaner cut, when I really push the throttle up, and hold it in position I can get it to about 3500 but I have to keep my hand on it or it will creep back. I fiddled a little with the linkage and then I stopped thinking that the governor needed to be properly set.
Part 2: I am not lazy, I did a search on this and couldn't get the answer, If it is already posted somewhere, just say so. One of the things I like about you guys is that you don't pounce on us for asking questions that may have been answered somewhere else already. I belong to an auto motive form and those guys are ruthless, you are not. Back to the question. I can find and have downloaded just about every manual I can find that applies to this machine and I cannot a "Repair" manual for the tractor. I can find service manuals but nothing that is step by step repair like a shop manual would. I am missing something?
Part 3: Lacking anything else, can someone at least tell me if I need to make adjustments to the governor and if so tell me how I can find out how to do it?
I thought I had CLEANED and degunked everything until I started reading more closely the posts and photos about chaff building up behind the flywheel and blocking airflow to the rear cylinder. Even though I could do a visual with a flashlight and it looked clean, I though I better check anyway. I took the "tin" off and everything was surprisingly clean so I decided not to push my luck and bolted it back together. At least now I know its moving air as it should. Thanks for the info on that.
I have attacked a picture or two of that process and a (not so good) view of the throttle governor linkages.
Thanks!
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