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Gregor

K181 rebuild

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Gregor

Got a call from the machine shop about the block and crank. Crank is fine. Block isn't bad, but if I wanted it perfect, bore it 10 over, so I am. Ordered a 10 over piston, standard rod, and new valve guides. $25 for valve guides seemed a bit high to me, but maybe not.

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Gregor

Late Tuesday I got the rebuild kit, and new valve guides for the 181. I took them up the machine shop, first thing Wednesday morning. They called this afternoon, and said it was done, so I have it all back. Block all cleaned up and checked. Bored 10 over, new valve guides, seats and valves ground, and lapped in. I believe @Mickwhittstated his valve guides had to be reamed. As did these, They were Kohler OEM guides. Crank was good, they just polished it.  $206. I didn't think that was bad, I was expecting more. I will wait and paint it tomorrow, as I have tractors in the garage. I took the block up Mar. 11th.  I got it back much quicker than I expected.

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ebinmaine

EXCELLENT

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953 nut
12 hours ago, Gregor said:

I will wait and paint it tomorrow,

:twocents-02cents:            Don't put too much paint on the cooling fins, paint doesn't transfer heat too well.

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Handy Don
On 3/12/2021 at 8:26 AM, Gregor said:

I can use if I have to.

Is fine. Short for "...use it if I have to use it." :)

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Gregor

I got the block painted, and on my work bench, all the parts lined up, and ready for assembly. Opened my book, and was determined to follow it step by step. If the book said fart, I was gonna fart. Everything went well for about 10 minutes, and then it didn't.. Step 1, install bearing on PTO side. Check! Bearing installed. Step 2, install governor gear and cross shaft. This is where the trouble started. The governor gear slides onto a small stub of a shaft, after installing a washer. Washer?  What washer? I don't have any washer, and I don't remember seeing a washer. It's not in any of my bags of parts, it's not in any of my pics. So I look up the exploded view on partstree.com.  Yep, there's a washer. Maybe I lost it. Maybe it was still in the block when I took it to the machine shop. I don't know, but it's not there now. Now I have to order a washer, and wait for it to arrive, before going any further. Or do I? It just so happens I have another K-181, waiting in the wings for a re-build. It is the original motor from the 876. We will call it the RED 181. I didn't want to tear it down yet, but desperate times call for desperate measures. I may as well tear it down, steal the washer, get the block and crank to the machine shop, so I can order another re-build kit. (more about the RED 181 in the K-181 (2) thread) I tear down the RED 181 to steal the washer, and there is no washer. Now I am stumped. Did Kohler at some time eliminate the washer? Do I proceed without the washer, or do I put it on hold, and order 2 washers? Like I said, there was no washer in the RED 181, and I don't believe there was ever a washer in the black 181. @Mickwhitt. Do you remember a washer in your 181?  Motor experts.....help?   Thanks  Greg

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pfrederi

There is a washer...I too thought I had lost mine but it was still on the stub shaft.  i had survived a power washing of the block after ball honing...It is very thin and the little bit of oil kept it tight to the block.  Had to use an inspection mirror to see it .

Edited by pfrederi
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Gregor

I went and bought an inspection mirror. Mine seems to have flown the coop. There is no washer, on either motor. I can see a wear pattern on the cast, from the governor gear rubbing. Maybe it was lost at an earlier date. I'm torn as to what to do????????//:confusion-confused:

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Mickwhitt

I took the governor shaft out and cleaned up the weights etc but I can't recall a washer. Coukd be just a shim to take up any slop in the gear I guess.

I'll have a look over my photos and notes.

Mick 

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pfrederi

The washer is there to keep the plastic gear from rubbing on the cast iron block material.. 

 

Quick look at parts manual 74 different variants all used it... 

Edited by pfrederi

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Gregor

I ordered 2 of them. Whether or not I wait for them, remains to be seen.

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pfrederi
1 minute ago, Gregor said:

I ordered 2 of them. Whether or not I wait for them, remains to be seen.

 

1 minute ago, Gregor said:

I ordered 2 of them. Whether or not I wait for them, remains to be seen.

74 variants use them...plastic against cast iron not a good thing

Edited by pfrederi

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Handy Don
18 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I ordered 2 of them. Whether or not I wait for them, remains to be seen.

Patience, sir, will be rewarded.

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Gregor

I was able to pick up a small bronze thrush washer. 1/16" thick. Fit the stub shaft perfectly. With the stop pin installed there is still some slide play in the gear. Nothing interfering with anything. I may go this route.

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Gregor

Partstree shows several things on the exploded view of the governor, that simply are not on my motor. K181 spec 30108

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pfrederi

Your engine your call  The washer is thin very thin I didn't measure it but it is less than 1/16 just by looking at it.

 

Your variant is 105

 

 

CaptureGov.JPG

gov2.JPG

Edited by pfrederi

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Gregor

Yes it is thinner than 1/16. The thrust bearing is 1/16. The governor position, looks to me anyway, is determined by the stop pin. There is plenty of play for the governor gear between the stop pin, and the thrust washer. I don't have parts # 24, and 25 in your blow up, and with the governor bushing, I don't see how it's possible for them to be in there. There simply isn't room. At any rate, it's is going back together. If it blows, it blows. I will have learned something. They say you learn more from your mistakes, than your successes. We will find out.

5 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Patience, sir, will be rewarded.

When God was handing out patience, I thought he said patients. I said nope, don't need that. So I didn't get much.

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pfrederi

You should have #24 you should not have #25.  You should look at the Kohler parts manual.

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Gregor
10 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You should have #24 you should not have #25.  You should look at the Kohler parts manual.

You are right, sorry. I do have #24.

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Gregor

I may have hit a snag in my plans. My plan was to assemble this motor, and mount it on the 876 temporarily, until I get the original rebuilt. That was the plan anyway. 20210402_200343.jpg.8d6dc2d73080bde7bdea6b3c4f500a60.jpgBut as you can see by the oil drain plug hole, it may not be a good plan. The ends of the pan are not tapped for a plug. I could mount the other pan on here now, and switch them later, but it sounds like a hassle. If I get a pipe plug, with a countersunk Allen head, I may be able to shim the motor up off the frame a bit , just to get by. But I have gone as far as I am going tonight. Crank, cam, piston, rings, and tappets are in.Everything done by the book. Well, except for that little washer.

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953 nut

You should be able to bolt your rebuilt engine to the other oil pan right on the tractor.

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Gregor

The tractor is in about 100 pieces, and at the paint stripper.

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Gregor

Good, bad, or indifferent, the K 181 #1 is back together. But not without some problems. First, was that little washer on the governor gear. We'll see how that plays out. Speaking of governors, I still don't understand the adjustment procedure, even though it's spelled out in the book. As long as it works, I guess it doesn't matter, if I understand it or not. The coil/stator assembly is bad, I think, but I installed it anyway, only to have to remove it again. The flywheel was rubbing on it. I had the same problem with the Tecky. If and when I ever locate another stator, I will worry about it then. I am switching this motor to battery ignition. At least I think I am. If I have this right, all I have to do is add a coil, and a battery, and I am good to go. I hope. It has the original Kohler carb on, rebuilt. I don't have an air breather cover, so when I do fire it up, I'll have to borrow one from another motor. 20210403_113758.jpg.d866c21a78ed191f3d8c97390374aafc.jpg

20210403_113817-2.jpg.d4ef0aad102463e3c78dc1b7f064e020.jpgYou may not be able to tell it in this pic, but the starter bendix rubs on the shroud. So far the only thing I can think of, is to whittle away a bit at the shroud. Maybe I will come up with something else, with a little more thought. I had to add some small feet to it to accommodate the oil plug.

20210403_113846.jpg.72440dcd68e2c75cf0727c7776490302.jpg20210403_113924.jpg.fdda0eeb1c540f39494efa888503f223.jpg

If I can figure a way to mount it, supply fuel to it, and mount the coil, I will give it a test run.

Edited by Gregor

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Gregor

 

 

Excerpt from the Kohler manualimage.png.0674a0d7687059f0094517f885e37b11.png

 

And they mean it too. Another tip toe through the garbage, for me.

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Gregor

I mounted the 181 on a test stand. Then I proceeded to wire it up. That's where things went bad. What did I do wrong? 20210404_150100.thumb.jpg.a2c434a6e2dfd6ddcbf6232a7243f0f6.jpgThe back of the switch is labeled as you see it, except for the center post. I assumed it went to the starter. I have it wired as shown. As soon as I turn the key to "crank" position, it blows the fuse indicated by the arrow. With the circled 20 amp fuse installed I have continuity between the battery lug on the switch, and the center lug, any time the key is turned to the "on" position. If I remove the fuse, I don't. (thats the part I don't get) Fuel pump runs with the key in the "on" position, or the "acc" position. I have continuity, between the battery lug, and the ignition lug with the key turned on. Remove all fuses, use my jumper cables, direct from battery to starter, turns over fine. :confusion-helpsign:  Again!

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