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Oldskool

Something from nothing?

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Oldskool

I've been looking at these. At the moment I'm thinking duals with a 2in spacing. They are about 26in tall. Any thoughts??

20210222_105557.jpg

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SylvanLakeWH

Should look great!

 

:twocents-twocents:

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DennisThornton

Why? 

Over the years I've gone from, "OMG!  I have to have a set!" to "Why?".

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Oldskool
37 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Why? 

Over the years I've gone from, "OMG!  I have to have a set!" to "Why?".

As far as tire purchase goes I can buy 4 of those for a bit less then what I can buy 2 wider ones for. For use well I'm sure 4 work as well as 2 in cases and vise versa. 

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DennisThornton
16 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

As far as tire purchase goes I can buy 4 of those for a bit less then what I can buy 2 wider ones for. For use well I'm sure 4 work as well as 2 in cases and vise versa. 

Wasn't fully processing...  You showed a picture of narrow tires didn't you.  Ok, so another interesting thought.  Are narrow duals better than one wide tire?  Tracks vs wide tires...  Floatation vs digging in...  Don't know...

 

But now I like where you are going.  Should look good AND I think work good, too!  But darn!  That just might put dual rears back on my list!

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Oldskool
52 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Wasn't fully processing...  You showed a picture of narrow tires didn't you.  Ok, so another interesting thought.  Are narrow duals better than one wide tire?  Tracks vs wide tires...  Floatation vs digging in...  Don't know...

 

But now I like where you are going.  Should look good AND I think work good, too!  But darn!  That just might put dual rears back on my list!

Yes they are narrow, 5in. I think it all comes down to use and conditions on the duals or wide question.

For what I'm looking to do I think duals will be best. 

 

I know there is the old saying "Form follows function". With that being said i cant seem to find the exact front tire I'm looking for. 

 

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DennisThornton

Decades ago I had a 53 (I think...) GMC with ordinary rear snow tires. Did ok I guess but then I put on some huge rears and immediately got stuck.  Tried again a few times and swapped the snows back on.  Wides didn't have as aggressive treads and they sure were worthless in snow!

 

Duals do look cool and I think your narrows will have impressive traction, as far a rubber alone will take you.  My front ags came in today and while I may mount them on spare rims I'm in no hurry to swap my rollers out.  I don't think the ags can come anywhere close!

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Oldskool
Just now, DennisThornton said:

Decades ago I had a 53 (I think...) GMC with ordinary rear snow tires. Did ok I guess but then I put on some huge rears and immediately got stuck.  Tried again a few times and swapped the snows back on.  Wides didn't have as aggressive treads and they sure were worthless in snow!

 

Duals do look cool and I think your narrows will have impressive traction, as far a rubber alone will take you.  My front ags came in today and while I may mount them on spare rims I'm in no hurry to swap my rollers out.  I don't think the ags can come anywhere close!

I think I would wait till after winter to put your AGs on

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DennisThornton
1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

I think I would wait till after winter to put your AGs on

I thought I'd see how they compare but I'm convincing myself that there wouldn't be any comparison.  So then do I want to wear out my chains on dirt work after winter?  Or swap with the ags until the snow flies again?

 

I agree!

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Oldskool
28 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I thought I'd see how they compare but I'm convincing myself that there wouldn't be any comparison.  So then do I want to wear out my chains on dirt work after winter?  Or swap with the ags until the snow flies again?

 

I agree!

I think put the AGs on the other rims and wait. From all the reviews it sounds like the roller chain is the winner in the

 Winter.

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ebinmaine

As long as you remember to keep your outside set of duels at a lower air pressure you should do well with those.

 

What size and type of fronts are we looking for?

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Oldskool
Just now, ebinmaine said:

What size and type of fronts are we looking for?

18 tall for an 8in wheel. Width is sorta variable but would like to have 5in-ish. 

I was thinking tri ribs but not if they end up to wide. No 4 ribs. Maybe narrow AGs but last on the list. Maybe a knobby

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

18 tall for an 8in wheel. Width is sorta variable but would like to have 5in-ish. 

I was thinking tri ribs but not if they end up to wide. No 4 ribs. Maybe narrow AGs but last on the list. Maybe a knobby

I can tell you from experience having had both here regular tri ribs for an 8" wheel should be around 15.5, 16 tall.

Tri ribs for a 12" wheel are about 22 tall.

 

 

 

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DennisThornton
2 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

18 tall for an 8in wheel. Width is sorta variable but would like to have 5in-ish. 

I was thinking tri ribs but not if they end up to wide. No 4 ribs. Maybe narrow AGs but last on the list. Maybe a knobby

If going for looks, hard to beat tri-ribs in front of ags, if not ags in front of ags, though the fronts lose some cool points when reversed. 

I intend to mount my front ags reversed though, function first.

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Oldskool
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I can tell you from experience having had both here regular tri ribs for an 8" wheel should be around 15.5, 16 tall.

Tri ribs for a 12" wheel are about 22 tall.

 

 

 

If the tires I have on my front rims weren't so rotten I would just tube them.  They are 18x6.50x8

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Oldskool
2 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

If going for looks, hard to beat tri-ribs in front of ags, if not ags in front of ags, though the fronts lose some cool points when reversed. 

I intend to mount my front ags reversed though, function first.

Tri ribs and AGs are timeless. I dont have any issue with my front  AGs facing forward.

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DennisThornton
40 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I think put the AGs on the other rims and wait. From all the reviews it sounds like the roller chain is the winner in the

 Winter.

Behind a snow blade!  Don't know about breaking new snow.  Ags reversed might be better for several inches of snow.  Anything might be better than bare turfs.

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stevasaurus

Your thinking on the brakes is not correct.  With your transmission, the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft.  Older transmissions have the brake drum on the 11/44 tooth gear.  That does not mater.  When you step on the brake pedal, you pull the brake band tight on the brake drum.  In your case it stops the cluster gear shaft from turning...that keeps the 11/44 tooth gear from turning, which keeps the differential bull gear from turning.  This stops both wheels because the bull gear can not rotate.  Right now, if you jacked up the rear end and turned one wheel the other one would turn in the opposite direction.  That's the pinions inside your differential, but the horse can not go forward...but you could pick up the front end and walk it around in a circle all day.  This is what John was trying to say.  :confusion-confused:  :occasion-xmas:

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Oldskool
13 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

Your thinking on the brakes is not correct.  With your transmission, the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft.  Older transmissions have the brake drum on the 11/44 tooth gear.  That does not mater.  When you step on the brake pedal, you pull the brake band tight on the brake drum.  In your case it stops the cluster gear shaft from turning...that keeps the 11/44 tooth gear from turning, which keeps the differential bull gear from turning.  This stops both wheels because the bull gear can not rotate.  Right now, if you jacked up the rear end and turned one wheel the other one would turn in the opposite direction.  That's the pinions inside your differential, but the horse can not go forward...but you could pick up the front end and walk it around in a circle all day.  This is what John was trying to say.  :confusion-confused:  :occasion-xmas:

So these transmissions cant be split braked at all? It's probably good I went onto other things for a bit.

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stevasaurus

You probably could, but it would take like shoes or disc brakes on each axle and a separate brake pedal...if you are looking to brake one at a time.  :eusa-think:  You would not need the brake drum then.

 

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Oldskool
6 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

You probably could, but it would take like shoes or disc brakes on each axle and a separate brake pedal...if you are looking to brake one at a time.  :eusa-think:  You would not need the brake drum then.

 

That was my initial thought. Use either drums or rotors mounted on the hubs then work from there.

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wallfish
13 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

So these transmissions cant be split braked at all?

yes, they can. piece of angle iron clamped to the square axle housing to hold a caliper, disc attached to the axle or hub. Locking one side will allow power to the other side. Steering brakes.

Don't the big D series have steering bakes?

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Oldskool
3 minutes ago, wallfish said:

yes, they can. piece of angle iron clamped to the square axle housing to hold a caliper, disc attached to the axle or hub. Locking one side will allow power to the other side. Steering brakes.

Don't the big D series have steering bakes?

I believe I have heard tbat.

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

Your thinking on the brakes is not correct.  With your transmission, the brake drum is on the cluster gear shaft.  Older transmissions have the brake drum on the 11/44 tooth gear.  That does not mater.  When you step on the brake pedal, you pull the brake band tight on the brake drum.  In your case it stops the cluster gear shaft from turning...that keeps the 11/44 tooth gear from turning, which keeps the differential bull gear from turning.  This stops both wheels because the bull gear can not rotate.  Right now, if you jacked up the rear end and turned one wheel the other one would turn in the opposite direction.  That's the pinions inside your differential, but the horse can not go forward...but you could pick up the front end and walk it around in a circle all day.  This is what John was trying to say.  :confusion-confused:  :occasion-xmas:

I was with you until "...because the bull gear cannot rotate."

Let's say the parking brake was locked in this situation (brake drum cannot turn) and the one rear wheel is on pavement and the other rear wheel is on ice.

Now try to push the tractor.  

From your explanation, the differential is NOT locked.

So, to me, I would expect the pavement wheel to rotate "forward" with the push and the icy wheel to spin backward. It's the equivalent of "...walk it around in a circle all day.."

Please, if I've missed it correct me, but braking relies on traction for BOTH rear wheels. If one loses traction you lose braking.

 

Notes added:

So with good traction, the brake stops both wheels and the tractor. With bad traction (downhill on gravel or dirt?) things can get dicey (I've experienced this). While under power with separate brakes (D's) press both pedals and both wheels slow no matter what the traction situation is; brake one wheel and the opposite wheel accelerates (just like turning a corner). I think this is what @Oldskool is looking to achieve.

This does not apply to locked differentials, because on them both wheels must rotate in the same direction at the same rate.

Edited by Handy Don
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Handy Don

The above notwithstanding, if I EVER have to go inside a transmission, I'd like @stevasaurus as lead so I could be wingman!

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