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WheelhorseBob

Chainsaws and rebuilding them.

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WheelhorseBob
1 hour ago, oliver2-44 said:


I really only needed a homeowner type saw for trimming a few tree limbs and cutting some BBQ wood. Ive certainly learned my lesson. I’ll only buy Pro saws from now on. 

 

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slim67
41 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

RedMax and Efco some around here like Shindawa.

I know we have dealers around for Redmax and in Ohio for Efco. Id like to try them out for shits and giggles. The professionals around me mainly use Stihl overall compared to the others. Husky would be second and after that I don't know. I have one Echo ( 330EVL) and its been a good little saw and is probably around 25 years old. I don't normally see them for pro use either though.

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WheelhorseBob

If you are only occasionally cutting small wood I’m not sure the cost of a true pro saw makes sense. You could literally buy 3 home owners saws for the cost of a pro saw. Now if you can find a pro saw that needs tinkering then well then all bets are off! Case example, I bought a 372 Xp from a dealer that was an Asplundh Tree service saw. It was dropped from the bucket and had a broken case. I paid 75 bucks. New after market cases, bearings, seals and piston/cylinder. I’m into it for the cost of a homeowner saw and trust me it ain’t that!

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slim67
Just now, WheelhorseBob said:

If you are only occasionally cutting small wood I’m not sure the cost of a true pro saw makes sense. You could literally buy 3 home owners saws for the cost of a pro saw. Now if you can find a pro saw that needs tinkering then well then all bets are off! Case example, I bought a 372 Xp from a dealer that was an Asplundh Tree service saw. It was dropped from the bucket and had a broken case. I paid 75 bucks. New after market cases, bearings, seals and piston/cylinder. I’m into it for the cost of a homeowner saw and trust me it ain’t that!

Its a plus if you can repair them yourself. 

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ebinmaine

@WheelhorseBob

I'm really hoping I don't need a saw for a very long time but If  I do you'll be the first contact!

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WheelhorseBob
13 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@WheelhorseBob

I'm really hoping I don't need a saw for a very long time but If  I do you'll be the first contact!

I have more than I can use, you’d be welcome any time!

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said:

I have more than I can use, you’d be welcome any time!

I trip over any extra money you can sell me a beast saw for big stuff. 

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Horse Newbie
3 hours ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Well it looks as though that saw may have a decompression valve and an auto one at that. I’ve never actually worked on nor ran that model saw so it’s hard for me to trouble shoot via this post. Check for the decomp and see if it is working. I found this when I looked, it may help. http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Husqvarna-Service-Bulletins/B0401016.pdf.              If all checks out with the decomp, pull the recoil and turn it over by hand to rule out recoil issues. Then pull the clutch cover and check the chain break and clutch for anything out of order. Kind of a process of elimination. 

@WheelhorseBob  I'll check the decompression valve.

I have already checked the recoil mechanism, chain brake...by the way, how do you trouble shoot a decompression valve ?

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WheelhorseBob
15 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

@WheelhorseBob  I'll check the decompression valve.

I have already checked the recoil mechanism, chain brake...by the way, how do you trouble shoot a decompression valve ?

Well the manual ones are easy, they close the minute the engine fires. If it doesn’t it’s bad. Auto ones, caveat here I do not own one, have an impulse line from the crankcase that delivers pressure when the engine is running to close the decomp valve. Think of the way an Onan fuel pump works. If that line is damaged the decomp wouldn’t close. Not your issue. I’d look at the valve itself. It may be stuck closed. 

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Horse Newbie
1 hour ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Well the manual ones are easy, they close the minute the engine fires. If it doesn’t it’s bad. Auto ones, caveat here I do not own one, have an impulse line from the crankcase that delivers pressure when the engine is running to close the decomp valve. Think of the way an Onan fuel pump works. If that line is damaged the decomp wouldn’t close. Not your issue. I’d look at the valve itself. It may be stuck closed. 

@WheelhorseBob  I'll look at it...thanks for the help !

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WheelhorseBob

Stripped and ready for a serious cleaning! Been a bit behind on things lately, but got my transaxle back together yesterday and started in on another saw today. Trust me cleaning bar oil and sawdust gunk is not fun!

image.jpg

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ebinmaine
30 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said:

Trust me cleaning bar oil and sawdust gunk is not fun

That stuff is kinda like the muck in certain places on a horse that hasn't been cleaned .... Ever. 

No good way to remove it. 

 

 

Looks good now!

 

 

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tom2p
On 12/6/2020 at 5:54 PM, WheelhorseBob said:


 

oliver2-44 said:


I really only needed a homeowner type saw for trimming a few tree limbs and cutting some BBQ wood. Ive certainlylearned my lesson. I’ll only buy Pro saws from now on. 


for small stuff (few inches in diameter) - I just recently began to use a recip saw instead of a chain saw (or hand saw) ...

 

should have done this years ago 

 

Edited by tom2p
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Digger 66
3 hours ago, tom2p said:


for small stuff (few inches in diameter) - I just recently began to use a recip saw instead of a chain saw (or hand saw) ...

 

should have done this years ago 

 

 

I have used a demo blade on my recip as well .

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, Digger 66 said:

 

I have used a demo blade on my recip as well .

I now do pruning with cordless reciprocating saw (Milwaukee M12 Hackzall) and a demo blade. Just gotta keep the saw tight up against the branch so it doesn't vibrate instead of cutting!

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tom2p

recip saw also works well on roots - can use a 12" blade and cut through some fairly big roots 


works well - and saves your chainsaw 

 

 

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, tom2p said:

recip saw also works well on roots - can use a 12" blade and cut through some fairly big roots 


works well - and saves your chainsaw 

 

 

Agreed. The few trees I've downed and taken roots that's been a life and labor saver. 

Chainsaw on roots and dirt is bad. 

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Horse Newbie
16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Chainsaw on roots and dirt is bad. 

Yep...a recip with a "roughing in" or an aggressive tooth blade holds up to dirt fairly well.

Edited by Horse Newbie
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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

a recip with a "roughing in" or an aggressive tooth blade holds up

When we were clearing out for the tarp garage horse stable I tried several recip blades. 5, 6, 9 tooth. I honestly don't remember what was the best but all were fairly close. 

 

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cschannuth

We heat with wood so we cut quite a bit and I bought a Husqvarna 272 with a 24” bar almost 30 years ago and it still works and runs like a top with only a couple of spark plugs over the years. I also have a medium size and a small Stihl that we use. However, I’m a contractor and have a lot of 20 V DeWalt tools so my kids got me for Christmas a couple of years ago a Dewalt 20 V chainsaw. For what it is it works amazingly well and is super handy to have around the house for cutting down small trees, limbing, etc.  If you already have the batteries, the bare tool is not that expensive. It has a 12 inch bar and will easily cut through 8 to 10 inch trees.  If I’m around the house, it’s the first chainsaw I grab unless I’m cutting something really large.

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Handy Don
16 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Chainsaw on roots and dirt is bad

Friend used to joke that when he needed to do roots he'd rent a chainsaw

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Digger 66

Got an older Homelite coming my way this weekend . Stay tuned ......

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lynnmor
5 hours ago, Digger 66 said:

Got an older Homelite coming my way this weekend . Stay tuned ......

I have six old Homelites running and three more that I will assemble and fire up in a couple of months when my vision is back to normal.  What model do you have?

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Digger 66
18 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I have six old Homelites running and three more that I will assemble and fire up in a couple of months when my vision is back to normal.  What model do you have?

 

I'm not sure , It's Carl my ATV riding bud's .

I think he said it was an EZ ? Or Super EZ ?

Says he put a new slug / jug and rings a while ago and it had 165 lbs of cylinder pressure .

This fall he noticed it was down on power and PSI checked in @ 120 .

Something's strange .....

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WheelhorseBob
On 1/11/2021 at 8:19 PM, cschannuth said:

We heat with wood so we cut quite a bit and I bought a Husqvarna 272 with a 24” bar almost 30 years ago and it still works and runs like a top with only a couple of spark plugs over the years. I also have a medium size and a small Stihl that we use. However, I’m a contractor and have a lot of 20 V DeWalt tools so my kids got me for Christmas a couple of years ago a Dewalt 20 V chainsaw. For what it is it works amazingly well and is super handy to have around the house for cutting down small trees, limbing, etc.  If you already have the batteries, the bare tool is not that expensive. It has a 12 inch bar and will easily cut through 8 to 10 inch trees.  If I’m around the house, it’s the first chainsaw I grab unless I’m cutting something really large.

The 272 is a great saw! It is the predecessor of the 372XP. For a firewood guy like me And you (272/372) it is in my opinion the do everything saw. It will last a lifetime a do everything from limbing to 50” diameter trees. For Stihl guys the 044/440 is in the same category. 

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