A Tecumseh Tale

[Gregor 4,838]

You are right. That's .125", not .012. duh.

[Gregor 4,838]

Just ordered another set of rings. You are correct on the bore spec, but it doesn't explain the discrepancy in the manual.If you were closer, I would buy a couple of those Tecumsehs Actually, southern Mn. isn't that far from me.Still would like to find a small (6-8 maybe10hp) Kohler.

[ebinmaine 63,070]

2 hours ago, Gregor said:

8 maybe10hp) Kohler

If you go that route keep in mind an 8 is a small block and a 10 is a big block. 2 VERY different animals...

[tom2p 2,393]

On 12/2/2020 at 3:39 PM, Gregor said:

 

Still would like to find a small (6-8 maybe10hp) Kohler.

 

the small Kohler certainly gets my vote 

 

durable as an anvil 

 

keep a clean air filter and fresh oil in them and they will run well for decades with little to no maintenance or issues 
 

[Gregor 4,838]

I mentioned earlier that I had ordered an H70 block from ebay. I just got it. Bore measures 2.75. I will remove the valves, look things over and decide which block to use. The good news is, the block I just received has the same mark as my original block. I am going with casting mark, and definitely not a crack. I am not sure how these pics are going to load. First pic last? Last pic first? The block with all the red paint is my original block. I didn't do anything to the new block except wipe it with a little acetone..

[305 379]

when reassembling make sure you point gap is at .020 and the timing is .080 BTDC...they are kinda fussy about this

[Gregor 4,838]

I bought a dial indicator just for that purpose. ( I've been watching Taryl Dactyl Kind a goofy at times, but I think he knows what he is doing. ) My biggest question right now is ring end gap. The book says .010. When I took my motor apart, and using the rings that were in it, it had a ring gap of .080. How can anyone be off that far? That being said, I have seen a lot of 2 strokes the same way. After checking the ring gap in the new block, I believe I will use it. The cylinder seems to be more consistent at top, middle, and bottom.  I just have to clean it up some.

 

For the record, I know this motor is not worth the trouble, time, and expense I am putting into it. A normal person probably would not do it. As for the time and trouble. I use to sit on my couch and eat, day after day, week after week. I did that for 3 years after I retired. Then my wifes Lawnboy mower broke (Thank God) and she asked me to fix it. I did. Then I found an old Lawnboy for 20 bucks, and fixed that one too. Then I found another Lawnboy, and another, and another, and another, etc.  etc.. etc.. Then I found another MF-14. Rebuilt it. Then I found a Wheel Horse C-141, and rebuilt it. To date I have 17 Lawnboys, 2 Massey 14's, This 656 The C-141, and 3 John Deeres. It all gives me something to do. The expense, well I am not rich by any means, but I am fortunate that some lawn mowers and tractors are not going to break me. Since my wifes planned trip to Italy this past summer was cancelled, due to the world situation, I have ALL that money to burn up. So the trouble, It's no trouble. The time, I have lots. The expense, my wife has money I haven't even spent yet. And besides. I enjoy it.

[oliver2-44 8,849]

32 minutes ago, Gregor said:

. So the trouble, It's no trouble. The time, I have lots. The expense, my wife has money I haven't even spent yet. And besides. I enjoy it.

 

@Gregor If ever there was a quote that signifies you are retired, you hit the nail on the head.

[squonk 38,902]

On 12/2/2020 at 2:32 PM, Gregor said:

I looked up everything again.(took a while) All that did was confuse me more. On page 95 of this manual, https://www.allotment-garden.org/rotavator-manuals/Techumseh-L-Head-Engines-Manual.pdf  (if you want to look it up), it says cylinder bore for an H60 is 2.62"  On page 96 it says cylinder bore for an H70 is 3.06". Mine measures 2.75" This lead me to believe I had an H60 block bored 10 over. Doesn't that make sense? NOW I notice on page 95 it says cylinder bore for an H70 is 2.75" Why the discrepancy in the specs in the manual? Or am I reading the manual wrong?  So....If I do in fact have an H70 block, I just ordered the wrong rings. Here is a pic of the piston and rod. The number stamped on the rod is 25 026 if that means anything.

 

Sp

If that's the piston out of the engine you're going to use, that block would not get cleaned up with a regular hone. It would need boring. As far as cracks go, spray some carb cleaner on it and walk away. Come back in an hour and if it looks worse, it's a crack.

[Gregor 4,838]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

If that's the piston out of the engine you're going to use, that block would not get cleaned up with a regular hone. It would need boring

1 hour ago, squonk said:

I am not using that block. I have another. I have been cleaning up the new block I just received. At one point, someone thought it would look better white than red, I disagree. The cylinder does have some scratches in it, but honed nicely, and measures 2.75. While cleaning up the block, I discovered this. This is one of the bosses where the starter bolts on. I have been considering options. Leave it as is, hope for the best. Drill completely through, and tap it. Apply some aviation sealer, (that is some sticky stuff) to the bolt. The oil capacity is 19 oz, so I believe it will be above that line. What would you do?

 

[Gregor 4,838]

I am making headway on the H7. I think I have repaired the broken starter boss. Mostly still cleaning parts and removing my skin on a wire wheel. In the meantime, look what I found! My small engine guy called me and told me he had the coil for me that he had ordered for another project I have going on. When I went to pick it up, he had this. A Kohler K161T. According to the serial number, if I am reading it right, it is a 1977. It turns over, that's all I cared about. He told me it came off a snowblower many moons ago. It's been in his shed. I have too many projects going right now to tear into this, but I am going to be looking for parts.Possibly a new motor shroud that will accommodate an electric starter. A flywheel with a ring gear. I don't even know if this motor is built o accept a stator, but the block will accept a starter. This motor has something I have never seen before. It has a button on the points cover. Is this a kill button? If not, what is it?

[Gregor 4,838]

If the 7hp Tecumseh never runs again, and becomes a door stop, at least it will be purdy.....er.

[ZXT 2,394]

Yes, the push button is a kill switch. 

 

Hopefully you can get that Tecumseh to run after all the work you've put into it. It should be grateful. Most people wouldn't have spent the time or money on it. 

[Gregor 4,838]

About the carb. I am attempting to rebuild the carb for the H70. I have watched Taryl Dactl rebuild a Tekkey carb. He says when you shake it, you should hear a plunger rattle inside. Mine does not rattle. My small engine guy say not all Tekky carbs have that plunger. Of course I have no idea. I have a new after market. It rattles. I have the kit, I may as well use it, but, should I rebuild it, or trash it? If I could, I would like to get more info on repacing it with a Kohler carb.

[ebinmaine 63,070]

18 minutes ago, Gregor said:

get more info on repacing it with a Kohler carb.

@pullstart

[Pullstart 59,634]

I’ve been traveling, sorry for not seeing much lately.  When I tossed the K-181 carb on the 6 horse Tecky, I just measured the carb bores and they were close, so I ran with it.  I’d say find a Kohler carb that measures within 5 or 10 thousandths of an inch and run it!  

[Tractorhead 8,601]

On 12/6/2020 at 2:01 AM, Gregor said:

If the 7hp Tecumseh never runs again, and becomes a door stop, at least it will be purdy.....er.

 

I be sure it will work.

 

if not it become the best looking doorstopper ever, but i believe it run‘s.

Tecky carbs can be sometimes beasts, until you find the right setup,

but if found it, they run and run.

 

That‘s my experiences, i just had 2 Tecky‘s in the past they wan‘t run either way.

And never found the reason for. Several more just needs a little Service and care and they run,

because of age and hour‘s few are a little oil blowers but they still run reliable.

 

 

 

[Gregor 4,838]

I took this model and serial number plate off the Tecumseh. It's caused me nothing but problems. I would like to have another made. Not sure what I would put on it, but I do know it is an H70. Is anyone reproducing these?  Thanks  Greg

[305 379]

i doubt that anyone is reproducing the model/serial number plate.  then you would also have to know the type number

 

if you need it marked H70 i suggest you make one out of thin aluminum using that as a pattern and pop rivet it on.  you do have number and letter stamps? 

[Gregor 4,838]

I don't have a stamping set. If the motor runs when I'm done, the type # would be GregorBuilt

[WHNJ701 4,164]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

I took this model and serial number plate off the Tecumseh. It's caused me nothing but problems. I would like to have another made. Not sure what I would put on it, but I do know it is an H70. Is anyone reproducing these?  Thanks  Greg

Try @Vinylguy he might be able to make you decal for you to put on a piece of aluminum.  There's a few people out there that make restoration grade engine plates.  Somewhere I have a dudes card he makes nice stuff but not cheap.

[Gregor 4,838]

I think i have all the parts for the Tecumseh H70. New valves, lifters, springs, keeper washers, piston, pin and rings. New seals and gaskets.The only thing I didn't order was new points and condenser. If my small engine guy has some, I will get new, otherwise I will probably reuse what I have. Get ready for more stupid questions.

[ebinmaine 63,070]

31 minutes ago, Gregor said:

stupid questions

I was always taught the ONLY stupid question is the one you DIDN'T ask. 

[Gregor 4,838]

The Tecumseh H70 is all back together, except for the starter. I wasn't paying close enough attention when I disassembled the starter, and I think I have it put back together wrong. Will Have to work on that. I spent a LOT of time on installing the intake valve, then I taught myself a trick, and the exhaust went very quick. I also spent a LOT LOT LOT of time on setting the timing. Before I took it apart, I marked where it was. It is no where near that now. I hope it's close enough to work. I have spark, I have good compression. I am assuming these motors do not have ACR, which would account for me almost breaking my wrist, the first time I went to spin it with a drill. I'm glad I had it clamped down. It has fuel in it, and oil, and is ready to go, but not tonight. If it didn't start, I would lay awake wondering why. Now I can just lay awake wondering if.

When I got it, it didn't have a gas cap. That's a Lawnboy loaner. Is that wrong?

Edited December 23, 2020 by Gregor

[305 379]

that's a nice looking motor, good job.  i look forward to here about how well it runs. 

 

i see you do not have the exhaust brace on yet

 

do you have plans to use it , or are you sticking with the Predator ?