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danweikert21

trans pully issue

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danweikert21

Hi guys just am wondering about a problem im having with my pully on my trans. I have a raider 10 model 1-6041 and the pully has been loose the only thing keeping it on is the shroud. causing the outer wall of the pully to wear and grind. The pully is movable by hand. I just took it off looked down at the set screw and thought i would take it out ( just trying to fix it ) turns out there was a second set screw below the first one. So i decided to put the pully back on with the key in place and tightened down the set screw this time only using one haha. To my surprise it was tight. I wanted to make sure so i gave it a good tug. Then i gave it a pretty big tug and it popped right off. My concern is if i try and tighten the set screw more it will round out the Allen head. Maybe it was tight enough just thought i would put this out there. Thanks guys. One more thing should i put blue lock tight on the set screw. - Dan Weikert

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pfrederi

First get a new set screw and key.  The set screws have a cupped end to dig into the key.  Your set screw p probably has a tip worn flat.

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danweikert21

ok yeah ill do that  thank you 

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pfrederi

set.JPG

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danweikert21

do you know what type of set screw im looking at some now online and theres diffrent types like cup points, cone points and a half dog point

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danweikert21
1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

set.JPG

exactly what i need thank you so much 

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danweikert21

you wouldnt happen to know what size i dont have a thread pitch gauge 

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gwest_ca

Part number 909862-5 is a 5/16-18 x 5/16" set screw. It was originally a Nylok type so use a thread locker like Loctite.

Garry

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danweikert21

First of all thank you so much for the manuals ive been looking for this for a long time this will make everything way easier. 

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danweikert21

hi guys just wondering what gauge wire i should run my accesorys ( rear light, cigar lighter, and headlights ) and also if i need a fuse thanks a bunch :) 

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rjg854

A fused circuit is always a good idea :handgestures-thumbupright: I use 14 guage wire for most lower voltage needs like the ones you mentioned.

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R Scheer

I'd agree with the 14 gauge, I'd also use a 15 amp fuse.   Things can go bad real fast if you have a short circuit, and no fuse to protect the wiring.  Think fire, melted wiring etc.

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danweikert21

yeah this is true i kind of made a rookie mistake a few days ago i wired up just my back light and not my headlights and cigar lighter and boom it went up in smoke the back light is fired had to much power going to the back 

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danweikert21

where would i put the fuse in the wiring harness just wondering :)

 

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R Scheer

The easiest way would be to use a waterproof inline fuse holder.  Any boating supply place or decent electrical automotive place should have these.  Or your friendly online jungle site.  Waterproof may be an overkill, but this is a tractor, it will get wet sometime, and corroded connections can be a pain to troubleshoot.  You can also get waterproof butt splices to make your connections.

 

2 hours ago, danweikert21 said:

yeah this is true i kind of made a rookie mistake a few days ago i wired up just my back light and not my headlights and cigar lighter and boom it went up in smoke the back light is fired had to much power going to the back 

 

Sounds like you have a short in your back lights, not having your front lights connected should make no difference.  

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danweikert21

Thanks a lot guys this is the finished product 

B6DA6175-EBEA-45C4-A925-59B6B9C8DD9C.jpeg

91B6BD00-E015-494C-A48D-2FF425E3CD4C.jpeg

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danweikert21

Hey everyone I just ran into a problem with my drive components. After I got the drive pulley on the trans to stay tight I put it all together and tested it. Now I am having the problem of the idler pulley right about the drive pulley. The belt is slipping out and under the belt guard on the pulley. I’ve been having this problem ever since I tried to pull against a John Deere. ( I lost ) does anyone have any ideas on what it could be thanks everyone:)

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danweikert21

C6AFCF39-868B-4BFC-A2A5-FFFD3F6E3FF2.jpeg

1A59138A-94AE-4DD7-AE84-8C8B4F7634F1.jpeg

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pfrederi

Check the alignment of all three pulleys with a straight edge. 

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danweikert21

I would if I had a straight edge but I don’t. Thanks for the tip. Could I just use a yard stick or something like that instead 

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pfrederi

Yard sticks are good

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danweikert21

So I made sure all the pulleys are lined up and the belt keeps coming off at the pulley above the drive pulley. 

image.jpg

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Handy Don

HI. It may be the camera angle, but to my eye from your images and video, the idler pulley is not in the same plane as the drive pulley. The engine side looks closer to the frame than the transmission side.  Remember that the belt is rotating counter-clockwise so it is riding out of the idler pulley starting from the engine side, not the transmission side.

If so, possible causes are:

a) a bent arm holding the idler (not likely unless you know of some recent impact or stress on that part),

b) the shaft that supports that arm is loose or has wallowed out the holes where it passes through the tunnel frame (with the belt off, is there play on that shaft?),

c) worn bearings in the idler pulley (this last being the most likely, as when running the idler is not holding a steady plane-does it wobble or have side to side play?)

 

There are two other less likely possible causes: 

a) the drive belt has an internal tear or broken cord that is causing it to not run straight when under tension (look for a slight side-to-side "kink" in the belt

b) there is a gouge or worn spot or crack in the belt on one of the "V" sides that causes it to "ride up" on the idler (look for a gouge or dip crack or exposed fabric cords)

Neither of these are usual results of wear on belts that aren't especially old running on well-aligned drive trains so it'd be some impact or stress that caused it--including having it run off a pulley and jam against a guide or retainer or having a stick or stone get stuck in the drive.)

 

Good luck!

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