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71_Bronco

Motor Output Shaft Location?

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71_Bronco

When repowering a tractor, how close does the output shaft location have to be to the old location? I'm sure the location itself is not super important, but it would be if you wanted to re-use the old belt ghard and have it work properly.

 

I know most of these traxtors are recovered with a similar motor (for instance, a 12hp Kohler to a 14hp Kohler), but what aboit the odd balls?

 

I'm going to be tearing into my Lawn Ranger, and looking at my Wisconsin. Me theory is, if a K181 is a bolt in, then the Wisconsin should be dang close. Only issie is that it is about 2" taller, which may not clear the hood.

 

However, I can almost guarantee the output shaft will not be in the exact location.

 

Do I have +/- 1/8"? Or tighter? Or does it really depend on the entire setup?

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Ed Kennell

I don't think the location of the shaft is that important if you  plan to alter the belt guard to fit the new engine.     Just remember it is critical to position the guard so the bottom flange supports the belt during declutching.     The guard must support the loose belt to prevent it from sagging ang gripping the engine output pulley.

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ebinmaine

:text-yeahthat:

 

 

In fact I'd add that I had to support the top of the belt as well on one. 

 

If you're going to make or modify the belt guard you have a fair amount of flexibility in position. 

 

If you go too high you'll end up messing with the geometry of the belt vs idler location. That too can be modified by running an idler pulley on a bracket to return the belt  closer to original position. 

 

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ebinmaine

@Vurge is building one. @wallfish could comment as well having done a custom or two. 

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Achto

I had to make a belt guard for my diesel conversion. The upper rear corner is the only 90 degree corner on the belt guards. To get my measurements I clamped a long piece of angle iron on to the tractor where the top two mounting bolts are to use as a strait edge. From the angle iron I measured down to the belt to figure out the rest of the angles & cuts. The folded edges on the guard usually measure out to be 1" 

 

IMG_20190103_164457722-min.jpg.26b166ac87dbf12915578749f95dca3f.jpg

 

Finished product.

2059182539_beltguard.jpg.31f58ba861f35e2aa0e3d02eb02c60aa.jpg

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JoeM

One thing I found was the belt supports at the drive pulley are critical to have as they support the belt in a loose loop when de-clutching. Either the tang style or wires must be in place.

 

1527764063_1045Dbeltguardpic1.jpg.2947ad8905b6b6bbbd60ad60788662df.jpg

 

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Lee1977

When I put the Briggs Vanguard on my C-120 I raised the engine 3/4" and located the pto shaft dead center on the existing location front to rear.

I might be off as muich as 1/8" on the existing height but I run the existing belts drive and mule driveand the existing belt guard,

SAM-1223.jpg

Edited by Lee1977
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71_Bronco

I did a little measuring to see what kind of room I had, and which motor would be best. Here's what I found from some rough measurements (taken with a tape measure).

 

Existing tecumseh in tractor (unsure of model, H50 or H60 I think):

Overall height: 13-3/8"

Crank height: 4-1/2"

Bolt pattern: 7-1/2" x 5"

 

Kohler K181:

Overall height: 15-1/4"

Crank height: 4-3/4"

Bolt pattern: 7-1/2" x 5"

 

Wisconsin S7D:

Overall height: 16"

Crank height: 4-5/8"

Bolt pattern: 7-1/2" x 4"

 

Overall height was measured to the top of the rubber boot on the spark plug wire.

 

I also measured the distance under the hood. I got 16" from the frame to the underside of the hood.

 

Since the motor I have in the tractor now is not the factory original, I have no idea if the 4-1/2" is the correct crank height. Either way, the other 2 motors are pretty close. Since the K181 is known to work, the Wisconsin should be able to work too (assuming I can get it to fit nicely under the hood).

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, 71_Bronco said:

Wisconsin S7D:

Overall height: 16"

 

17 minutes ago, 71_Bronco said:

measured the distance under the hood. I got 16" from the frame to the underside of the hood

 

 

T'was it me... I'd go with the Wisconsin simply for the cool factor and being different. 

 

IIFF the bolt holes line up side to side to get the engine pulley lined up with the transmission, you'll only have to drill 2. If they don't you'll drill 4. 

 

The plug wire CAN'T touch the hood but doesn't need to miss by much. 

To gain some extra clearance from hood to spark plug you could switch the plug to a shortie like a header plug or NGK 6221. 

 

The small difference in crank pulley height could be adjusted to the belt guard (if needed) by massaging the belt guard mounting holes just a bit. 

 

 

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71_Bronco
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

 

T'was it me... I'd go with the Wisconsin simply for the cool factor and being different. 

 

IIFF the bolt holes line up side to side to get the engine pulley lined up with the transmission, you'll only have to drill 2. If they don't you'll drill 4. 

 

The plug wire CAN'T touch the hood but doesn't need to miss by much. 

To gain some extra clearance from hood to spark plug you could switch the plug to a shortie like a header plug or NGK 6221. 

 

The small difference in crank pulley height could be adjusted to the belt guard (if needed) by massaging the belt guard mounting holes just a bit. 

 

 

 

Thanks, I'd love to pop the Wisconsin in the Lawn Ranger, just for that one additional "unique" factor.

 

I did think about the spark plug. The manual calls for a Campion D-16J or AC C86 Commercial. I'll have to see if they make a "stubby" version.

 

The other reason I really like this Wisconsin motor is the starter-generator. Will be nice to be able to push a button and get it started rather than a recoil.

 

Normally, the battery would go where the starter-generator is, but im thinkkng about putting the battery in a little cradle under the seat.

 

I've also ordered the "dry filter" parts for this motor to reduce the air-filter size, in case this version does not fit under the hood.

 

20200709_173142.jpg.2179643feb0a2b74b537e64d6450cc29.jpg

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Ed Kennell

You could always add a scoop to clear the plug.IMG_6892.JPG.97ed9089d2a122327b952ea2f1ab06aa.JPG

 

 

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71_Bronco
8 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

You could always add a scoop to clear the plug.

 

 

 

This is true, but my hood is really clean (no rust, no big dents). I do have 2 extra mysterious holes in the top though, on the ridge. Not sure why. You can see them in this picture, one near the gas tank and one a little further forward.

 

20200716_191957.jpg.0022076a2407ddcf86475ffbaa7f32dd.jpg

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