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RandyLittrell

1277 gear reduction steering

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RandyLittrell

I have seen a lot of gear reduction steering setups in different tractors, but before I just assume it will fit in my 1277 loader tractor, I thought it best to ask. Cutting, fabbing and welding is not problem as long as it can physically be done. I have a power steering setup from a super Cub Cadet, but would like to keep my rig a little simpler than that. 

 

I guess I should also ask those that have a loader on a tractor with a gear reduction setup if they are happy with it? I have managed to use my tractor for several years now as it is, but it can get hard on the shoulders if working it hard. 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

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bc.gold

Simple 9020 even with the 60 inch snow thrower hanging off the front end or a bucket full of dirt in the front end loader, recirculating ball steering box is the next best thing to power steering.

 

Steering: Automotive type recirculating ball screw, finger tip steering with 14 diameter steering wheel which turns 3.2 revolutions from lock to lock.

 

 

 

Edited by bcgold

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ebinmaine

:popcorn:

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JAinVA

2018_09_05_1855.JPG.00497e1fe982e13c0612edc559808c59.JPGFirst of all I know little of Wheel Horses before the C series but here goes.It appears as though the 1277 shares the same frame as the C series and if it is the same length you should be good to go.The only area that may be an issue as far as can see from photos will be the battery box.I have not finished my loader yet but the horse that will carry it has gear reduction steering although it started from a 312a.I have the same steeirng setup on my 520 crane tractor and it lifts 400# 18" from the front of the tractor.When the tires are pumped up it stears hard at rest but once moving is acceptable to my 67 plus years body.I purposly chose 6 ply fronts on my loader machine since I could run 40#  plus air pressure.

Edited by JAinVA
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ebinmaine
22 minutes ago, JAinVA said:

First of all I know little of Wheel Horses before the C series but here goes.It appears as though the 1277 shares the same frame as the C series and if it is the same length you should be good to go.The only area that may be an issue as far as can see from photos will be the battery box.

Frame length is the same.

Battery box on the 1267 frame I have was the same as the 74 C160.

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Pullstart

I have no real knowledge of gear reduction steering.  I was at @bds1984’s place and turned his wheel on a swept axle reduction steering rig yesterday and could not believe how easily it spun the big wide tires!  If I wasn’t planning on my end game including the 1054 FEL project, I’d be going for reduction on my current FEL!

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953 nut

One easy idea to reduce steering effort is to use thrust needle bearings. If you remove the spindles, cut off enough material from the top of the axle to allow for the bearing and washers. Place the bearing and washers on the spindle and put it back on the axle. Some occasional cleaning and lubrication will be needed but the whole job will cost about $ 35.00 and take a couple hours. 7/8' for GT-14/953/1054 and 3/4" for others.

$_61.JPG

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JAinVA

Richard has a good point.This idea can reduce steering effort.The only down side is if you need to reduce the top of the axle to much then wear is increaesed on both the axle and spindle.If you are reusing the parts you have,axle and spindle then the worn section of the spindles will be dropped from where they are now.This in the short term could increase steering effort until the high spot is worn down.The only to way minimize this issue would be to remove the stack height of the bearing and washers from the bottom of the axle.

Edited by JAinVA
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71_Bronco

I thought I saw someone years back selling some oil impregnated bronze washers to put under the axle and over the spindle to help smooth out the steering. Wont be as nice as a thrust bearing, but may help.

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RandyLittrell
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

One easy idea to reduce steering effort is to use thrust needle bearings. If you remove the spindles, cut off enough material from the top of the axle to allow for the bearing and washers. Place the bearing and washers on the spindle and put it back on the axle. Some occasional cleaning and lubrication will be needed but the whole job will cost about $ 35.00 and take a couple hours. 7/8' for GT-14/953/1054 and 3/4" for others.

$_61.JPG

 

 

That was already in the works, I got part #'s from @ebinmaine and thats what got my mind on the idea of going to a gear reduction steering. 

 

It will take me awhile to find a steering unit and have a time when i want to have the loader down for a bit. I use it a lot. Needs the two front cylinders rebuilt so I gotta pull them and send them off to Lowell while I am at it. 

 

 

 

 

Randy

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Goldnboy

Randy your close to Lacygne and Mid America  hydraulics  would probably  be done in a day on those cylinders. 

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bds1984

One aspect of steering that many often overlook in search of easy steering effort is the years of packed/caked on petrified grease on any point that moves.  My straight axle 520H mutt had tons of thirty year old grease on it that once it was cleaned off and fresh grease installed, there was a noticeable drop in effort to turn.  I'd still like to install the needle thrust bearings but fresh grease was much cheaper at the time.

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RandyLittrell
2 hours ago, Goldnboy said:

Randy your close to Lacygne and Mid America  hydraulics  would probably  be done in a day on those cylinders. 

 

I will look them up and check it out, thanks Terrie!!

 

 

 

Randy

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RandyLittrell
45 minutes ago, bds1984 said:

One aspect of steering that many often overlook in search of easy steering effort is the years of packed/caked on petrified grease on any point that moves.  My straight axle 520H mutt had tons of thirty year old grease on it that once it was cleaned off and fresh grease installed, there was a noticeable drop in effort to turn.  I'd still like to install the needle thrust bearings but fresh grease was much cheaper at the time.

 

I do it on every tractor, you are spot on. Helps every time!

 

 

 

Randy

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