Jump to content
953 nut

Can I just hone this cylinder?

Recommended Posts

On 3/19/2021 at 2:33 PM, seuadr said:

is that actually a thing?




I have given you a list of the magic metals in the above, when spending your hard earned $$$ be sure to purchase from an ISO certified manufacture who will stand behind their product and not simply toss in a spare set of brush's.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

didn't work well in the 686cc in my opinion, had one, never done much hard work and in the end used more engine oil then gas.


I much prefer to have the engine sleeved.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/30/2020 at 8:28 PM, 953 nut said:

Seem like this question is asked nearly every week on here. The answers given quite often include buying expensive Bore Gauges or Inside Micrometers. I have an inexpensive down and dirty method of evaluating the cylinder's wear that uses a tool nearly everyone has or could buy for around $ 5.00. A set of feeler gauges and a ring from the piston you just removed will let you know without any other equipment. It won't tell you how much it should be bored (though you can get close) but it will tell you if it is beyond the point of being successfully honed.

In the photo below you can see the first step, placing a ring at the very top of the cylinder above the ridge. The piston ring end gap in this case is 0.080. The cylinder at the ridge measured standard at 3.25" and the cylinder walls and ring edges were worn smooth.


Next I used the piston to move the ring down to a point just below the ridge. The piston helps keep the ring square to the cylinder wall.


At this point the piston ring end gap increased to 0.110"


This step was repeated three more times at 3/4 inch intervals. The results were 0.117", 0.118" and 0.117"

Next the ring was moved to the bottom of the cylinder where the piton rings would not have contacted the cylinder walls. The piston ring end gap returned to 0.080".


The greatest deviation of the ring end gap was 0.038". Now we can do a little fuzzy math to figure out how much the cylinder need to be bored. Changes in the ring end gap will be a change to the circumference. Bore changes would be a change in diameter.

image.jpeg.9837746c7b384fbac618a2916a3ebfe7.jpeg    So, 0.038" divided by 3.14159 will show that the greatest wear in the cylinder is 0.012" larger in diameter than standard and should be bored 0.020".

This is a quick easy way to get the job done without spending a bunch of money on tools you will never use again. You are going to need the feeler gauges when you put the engine back together anyway.

that’s awesome man 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Beware of the original spec sheets on some kohler engines cause mine said for .010 over bore on a K321 was supposed to be 3.510 is not necessarily true for all. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...