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55reasons

1975 C-160 [so many questions. Brace yourself]

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ebinmaine

I've not tried to change those.

Are they not "driving in"  all the way?

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55reasons

These are the bearings:

 

 

6F07380D-57FA-4FEB-BB4E-AE4E16016FCF.jpeg

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55reasons
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I've not tried to change those.

Are they not "driving in"  all the way?


 

They seat properly at the flanges, yes.

 

But the center sleeve (the part in contact with the axle) sticks out 1/8” and I’m head scratching.

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, 55reasons said:


 

They seat properly at the flanges, yes.

 

But the center sleeve (the part in contact with the axle) sticks out 1/8” and I’m head scratching.

Design change perhaps?

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bottjernat1

Time for some washers! I did this to my restored rj58 because at the time i couldnt find the original front rims to save my life. Some day I will get some original front rims. Its all painted and perdy and works so i have left it alone. This is the only thing i wished was better on the restored rj58. I went threw this whole machine inside and out. 

FB_IMG_1545611350943.jpg

rj58.JPG

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55reasons
39 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said:

Time for some washers! I did this to my restored rj58 because at the time i couldnt find the original front rims to save my life. Some day I will get some original front rims. Its all painted and perdy and works so i have left it alone. This is the only thing i wished was better on the restored rj58. I went threw this whole machine inside and out. 

FB_IMG_1545611350943.jpg

rj58.JPG


I’m already out of axle length.

I can’t add more washers.

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55reasons

The thing is, someone told me to switch to sealed bearings to make it easier and less maintenance heavy (no grease).

 

But I didn’t expect to run into this shenanigan.

 

Nobody mentioned this.

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ebinmaine

Perhaps a spacer that measures 3/4 OD to match the axle shaft and (3/8??) ID to match the bolt?

McMaster Carr would likely have something...

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71_Bronco

I bought a set of those bearings off eBay about a year ago from a different vendor. I'll check them when I get home tonight to see if mine have the same issue. I did not install them yet, but will be very soon, have a long list of things to do to my WH

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55reasons

Meanwhile, I need a rototiller, like, immediately.

 

Anyone that has one of these things; can you tell me if this will work on this 74 C160 Auto?

 

 

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55reasons

I couldn’t find one locally, so I went out and rented a full hydraulic unit.

 

15 mins into the job, the Honda motor blows and the Horse has to pull it back to the trailer.

 

 

CA062ACD-DE49-4DF8-8B10-540AE1F2C5F7.jpeg

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55reasons

B2523A15-5688-4877-98B6-22B321D38D60.jpeg

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953 nut
On 6/5/2020 at 1:19 PM, 55reasons said:

The thing is, someone told me to switch to sealed bearings to make it easier and less maintenance heavy (no grease).

 

But I didn’t expect to run into this shenanigan.

 

Nobody mentioned this.

:confusion-confused:          I used them on my 310-8 and they worked great. 

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55reasons

I went up to Ohio and back (17 hours on the road) to get this tiller.

 

Question, where does this spring connect to for pulley tension?

 

That spring will NOT reach the hole in the frame, and if it’s supposed to connect to the front mule drive it’s a full 6 1/2 inches short.

 

 

E0912825-F4EE-4680-8E9C-7ABF223703F8.jpeg

Edited by 55reasons

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55reasons

This is what I came up with and it works for 10ft at a time.

 

If I hit a rock bigger than a lime, it throws the belt though.

 

 

9F895FA2-71EC-448E-9087-AA8A67F2D4DB.jpeg

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55reasons

Everything is lined up but there are some

issues:

 

1.  It keeps falling off.  The “quick hitch” arms in the manual have holes for pins to keep them closed, and this quick hitch does not have them.  I don’t know why I have to drill them myself.?


I’ve tightened the bolts holding the hitch arms onto the hitch as tight as they will go and they still swing open with one jerk of the tiller.

 

2.  I don’t know why it’s throwing belts so easily, but there enough tension that I can BARELY get the belt on the idler at full stretch.


When it’s turning, it’s burning though!

 

 

3FCF5407-468E-442F-A9DC-124383758873.jpeg

339D5F26-415C-4269-9237-78309D0CE5C1.jpeg

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55reasons

Here is a shot looking down the barrel:

The previous owner made a nice adjustment plate for the rear idler to allow infinite adjustment.   I might go that route to add even more tension, but I don’t know if I’ll be able

to get the belt on if it’s even 1/8 tighter.

 

 

01064409-09CC-44C9-BB8A-CF87CB8F3295.jpeg

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55reasons

Shot of the rear idler adjusting plate:

 

 

71F1AB6F-2953-43DF-A1C4-734FC4345420.jpeg

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55reasons

Pretty frustrating experience thus far having a Wheel Horse again.

 

Still waiting on an ignition.

ISaveTractors apparently doesn’t think it’s necessary to I form you before, or even after your online order, that parts are on back order.

 

Still hot-wiring it to start it.

 

The sealed bearings that were recommended lasted ALMOST 1 hour before they collapsed and imploded inside the wheels.  Now I have to mess around, again, with freshly powder coated  wheels.


I’m getting close to pushing this whole thing out to the road with a for sale sign.   
 

I needed to get work done, not to drive all over the country looking for obscure attachments and adapters only to have every single thing have a “that’s weird, I never had that issue before” incident at EVERY turn.

 

Honestly, this thing is pissing me off.

 

I’m venting, and I’ll probably calm down later, but I’m about ready to put a rag in the gas cap and strike a match.

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ebinmaine
53 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

calm down later

No worries man.

Walk away for a bit...

 

I find a fresh outlook the next day almost every time.

 

I won't comment on isavetractors except to say:

He's local to me. I buy local. Often.

I've never bought from them and likely won't.

 

I'd be happy to send you a used switch or get you the number of the new ones I buy.

 

I can't help with the tiller as we don't run any implements. Please feel free to start a new thread in the implement section if you like.

 

Maybe one of these guys can help.

@953 nut

@pfrederi

@pullstart

@PeacemakerJack

@Ed KennellKennell

@JCM

 

Once you get it up and going right and get all the PO mistakes taken care of you'll have a fabulous machine.

 

 

Read through this thread and you'll see why we would rather have a Horse than anything else:

 

 

 

 

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ebinmaine

I use and recommend Cole Hersee.

Edited by ebinmaine
Need to correct number

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Pullstart

Huh.  I just went through the process of tossing my tiller on my 502... the little shot in EB’s link above.  
 

A couple notes.  My tiller setup is not like yours.  Mine’s jerry rigged.  If you haven:t yet drilled the mount for pins, you’ll need to.  I’m not sure why they aren’t there already but you need those pins.
 

Here’s a few things to try, unless the manual says different.


Run the belt on the outside bell on the PTO.  It should slow the tiller down and the belt too.
 
You might have too much tension.  Try finding a spot closer to hook up the tensioner.  I can almost yank the belt right off and it isn’t even aligned very well, but it doesn’t throw it.

 

 It has been years since I ran my tiller on the appropriate Horse, but it seems like the pulley setup should have a straight bar between the two pulleys and the tensioner spring.  I seem to believe it sprung back?  
 

 

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55reasons
13 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

No worries man.

Walk away for a bit...

 

I find a fresh outlook the next day almost every time.

 

I won't comment on isavetractors except to say:

He's local to me. I buy local. Often.

I've never bought from them and likely won't.

 

I'd be happy to send you a used switch or get you the number of the new ones I buy.

 

I can't help with the tiller as we don't run any implements. Please feel free to start a new thread in the implement section if you like.

 

Maybe one of these guys can help.

@953 nut

@pfrederi

@pullstart

@PeacemakerJack

@Ed KennellKennell

@JCM

 

Once you get it up and going right and get all the PO mistakes taken care of you'll have a fabulous machine.

 

 

Read through this thread and you'll see why we would rather have a Horse than anything else:

 

 

 

 


I cooled off.

 

Still annoyed that I have to drill my own holes to retain the attachment on the quick hitch. But it has to be done.

 

I can get a switch, but I’m pretty sure it’s the neutral safety switch causing it not to engage the solenoid.  No time for that at the moment.

It’ll just open another can of worms and I’ll lose another whole day messing with really poor wiring hacks.

 

Had to tighten the PTO clutch adjuster to keep enough tension to engage the tiller under load.

 

I mean, it’s working, but I’m in my own personal hell struggling with this thing when I’m somewhat OCD when it comes to all my other vehicles and machines.

 

I just don’t understand why on something so simple and basic in design, people still can’t manage to just repair something PROPERLY the first time.   I hate chasing around the “WTF’s” on something as basic as a tractor.

 

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

I’m somewhat OCD when it comes to all my other vehicles and machines

Me too. That, in my opinion, is a good thing.

 

 

7 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

just don’t understand why on something so simple and basic in design, people still can’t manage to just repair something PROPERLY the first time

 

One of the great mysteries of life right there and also one of the primary reasons why I stopped using the existing harness on the tractor builds that we've done.

 

I literally just rip out every piece of bird's nest or spaghetti that's in there and start over.

 

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55reasons
1 hour ago, pullstart said:

Huh.  I just went through the process of tossing my tiller on my 502... the little shot in EB’s link above.  
 

A couple notes.  My tiller setup is not like yours.  Mine’s jerry rigged.  If you haven:t yet drilled the mount for pins, you’ll need to.  I’m not sure why they aren’t there already but you need those pins.
 

Here’s a few things to try, unless the manual says different.


Run the belt on the outside bell on the PTO.  It should slow the tiller down and the belt too.

 

 It has been years since I ran my tiller on the appropriate Horse, but it seems like the pulley setup should have a straight bar between the two pulleys and the tensioner spring.  I seem to believe it sprung back?  
 


Thanks for the ideas!   Your comment about being sprung “back” made me dig deeper into some manuals.

 

I can’t run the belt on the outside PTO bell because there would be too much belt deflection down to the mid-mount idler assembly.

 

I see that it originally called for a bolt to be installed through the frame just ahead of the footrest to use as a spring anchor point.   That clears up some of my head-scratching!   I’m going to try that and search around for an appropriate spring for that setup, as I think that might provide more constant tension and more idler movement for getting belts on when they hop off.

 

You can see the bolt in the photo below.

 

3/8-16 x 2 3/4 bolt and two nuts to match.

 

 

E99ACB53-3EAA-47CA-987D-3D43CDDA0582.jpeg

150857E0-8A2B-4936-BCF9-FB64E9ADAAA6.jpeg

Edited by 55reasons
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