1975 C-160 [so many questions. Brace yourself]

[Pullstart 59,561]

2 hours ago, 55reasons said:

If I had a key, I would have already troubleshot the starting circuit I can assure you.  lol....

 

The Deestones look great, but I have a huge clover lawn and I’m pretty sure they’re way too aggressive for a clover lawn.

 

I’m looking at maybe something in between.

 

This might be heresy here, but this golf cart tire looks like it might be a good compromise for the rear.

I might mandrel bend an exhaust for it.  I’m not too concerned about how loud it is.  I’d prefer it to not be made of of pipe though, and I’d like something that points down, or if it’s sideways, at least a tip that points at a downward angle.

 

 

good to hear you have the intention to troubleshoot!

 

those tires look fun, by all means be the trend setter there and let us know how it goes!  
 

I recently used a set of headers to build a couple exhaust systems for two tractors.  Here are some links to ideas...

 

Rylee’s “Screamin’ Jimmy”    “Steve” the C-81

[55reasons 171]

1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

That is/was the switch for an electric lift kit.  How it found its way on to a hydraulic tractor is a mystery.  There is a part number for the decal and here is reference to the kit from a 1975 brochure: here

 

Yeah, what’s REALLY crazy is that it is wired to the hydraulic cylinder.  🧐

[ebinmaine 62,972]

Just now, 55reasons said:

 

Yeah, what’s REALLY crazy is that it is wired to the hydraulic cylinder.  🧐

I'd like to see close-up pics of that if you can. 

[55reasons 171]

14 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

good to hear you have the intention to troubleshoot!

 

those tires look fun, by all means be the trend setter there and let us know how it goes!  
 

I recently used a set of headers to build a couple exhaust systems for two tractors.  Here are some links to ideas...

 

Rylee’s “Screamin’ Jimmy”    “Steve” the C-81

 

super cool!

[55reasons 171]

7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'd like to see close-up pics of that if you can. 

 

Two wires off the switch.  One goes down to either the hydro cylinder or the brake pedal pivot. (Too windy to climb under there at the moment)

 

The other has some splices, but ultimately ends up as a bare end by the headlights.

 

[55reasons 171]

Just now, 55reasons said:

 

Two wires off the switch.  One goes down to either the hydro cylinder or the brake pedal pivot. (Too windy to climb under there at the moment)

 

The other has some splices, but ultimately ends up as a bare end by the headlights.

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 62,972]

Past modification or repair maybe??

[953 nut 51,536]

Lets do a little down and dirty check it out troubleshooting before you go to the store and buy a bunch of parts you may not need.

Check the oil level in the engine and remove the spark plug.      Be sure the "New" battery has a god charge on it.   Get out your automotive jumper cables and connect the Black to the "-" terminal of the battery and the engine block. Connect the Red to the "+" terminal of the battery and momentarily touch it to the starter large terminal.  Does it turn over?  If the starter didn't turn over take it to a starter repair shop, don't buy the cheap junk starters you'll find on the internet.

If the starter turns over move the Red jumper clamp that was on the starter to the post of the solenoid that feeds the starter and touch it momentarily. If the starter turns over then the cable from the solenoid to the starter is good, if not replace that cable. If the starter turned over you can remove the Black jumper cable and repeat the jumper to solenoid, if the starter turns over the ground cables are good.Move the Red jumper that was touched to the solenoid to the other large post of the solenoid and clamp it there then run a small jumper form the post with the jumper on it to the small post on the solenoid that has a wire running up to the ignition switch. The solenoid should close and the starter turn over, if not you need a solenoid.

Let us know how you do.

[953 nut 51,536]

18 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

Two wires off the switch.

You don't have an electric lift or an electric PTO, mu guess is they go to headlights and tail lights.

[55reasons 171]

49 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You don't have an electric lift or an electric PTO, mu guess is they go to headlights and tail lights.

Except the Factory headlight and tail lights work off the existing factory switch, and who would bother getting an electric lift decal to use for an auxiliary circuit?

 

Especially on a tractor that never had a switch there?

 

Do all the hydro tractors have a decal there even without the electric lift?

 

*Edit* The dude was 96.  He’s not

the kind of guy that goes out and buys Wheel Horse decals on the internet to disguise an accessory circuit.

Edited May 20, 2020 by 55reasons

[55reasons 171]

Ok....   Had some time today to do some work on this thing.

 

I blew apart the rear seat so I could fix the vinyl and just throw some rattle can (Regal Red) on it to stop rust from spreading.

 

The arm rests have 3/8 plywood inside them as a base for the foam.

 

Used the old ones as a template and made some new ones out of 1/2” oak.   I figure the extra 1/8” wouldn’t hurt since I’m sure the foam has compressed an 1/8” over the years anyway.

 

 

 

 

[ebinmaine 62,972]

1 minute ago, 55reasons said:

Ok....   Had some time today to do some work on this thing.

 

I blew apart the rear seat so I could fix the vinyl and just throw some rattle can (Regal Red) on it to stop rust from spreading.

 

The arm rests have 3/8 plywood inside them as a base for the foam.

 

Used the old ones as a template and made some new ones out of 1/2” oak.   I figure the extra 1/8” wouldn’t hurt since I’m sure the foam has compressed an 1/8” over the years anyway.

 

 

 

 

Nice work!

[55reasons 171]

Also, the starter WAS bad.

 

Put in the new starter that came in the mail today from DB Electrical, and still nothing from

the key.   
 

At least when I jump the solenoid it turns now though.

 

Noticed the (what I hope is the ground) wire from the solenoid was not hooked up.

 

Soldered a new end on it, still nothing.

 

So, now, it’s either the solenoid, or the ignition switch itself.

 

WHERE can I get the MOST CORRECT solenoid and ignition switch?

 

 

[953 nut 51,536]

The small terminal on your solenoid should go to the clutch safety switch. If you use a small jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal to that terminal the solenoid should close and the starter should operate.

The diagram below should be helpful.

[ebinmaine 62,972]

Hold onto the old starter. They're rebuildable.

 

That wire to the solenoid is the hot.

 

If you REPAIR THE WIRING YOU MAY FIX THE ISSUE

 

If you need an ignition switch...

Check your local parts store and get a GOOD QUALITY name brand ignition switch.

 

The solenoid is easy.

Just tell them you need one for a 75 F150 with 3 terminals.

Most any old school 3 terminal solenoid will work.

 

 

[55reasons 171]

17 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The small terminal on your solenoid should go to the clutch safety switch. If you use a small jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal to that terminal the solenoid should close and the starter should operate.

The diagram below should be helpful.

 

I appreciate that.  
may I ask WHERE the clutch safety switch IS located on this, so I can get it wired in properly?

[55reasons 171]

16 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Hold onto the old starter. They're rebuildable.

 

That wire to the solenoid is the hot.

 

If you REPAIR THE WIRING YOU MAY FIX THE ISSUE

 

If you need an ignition switch...

Check your local parts store and get a GOOD QUALITY name brand ignition switch.

 

The solenoid is easy.

Just tell them you need one for a 75 F150 with 3 terminals.

Most any old school 3 terminal solenoid will work.

 

 

I see a bunch that are close, but I don’t see anything with the proper mounting strap.

[55reasons 171]

I guess what I’m asking about the ignition switch is if there is a exact replacement available from Toro, etc...  ?

[55reasons 171]

To consolidate my questions:

 

1.  Where is the clutch safety switch located on a 74 C-160 Auto.

 

2.  Is there an EXACT replacement part available for the solenoid and ignition switch?

[ebinmaine 62,972]

5 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

EXACT replacement part

Yepp.

 

Toro part number is 103990.

 

Should be available many places online.

Just be sure to get an oe, not universal replacement.

 

Jack's has em listed.

Likely available on fleabay as well.

 

[ebinmaine 62,972]

24 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

I see a bunch that are close, but I don’t see anything with the proper mounting strap.

Best if you can bring it to a store and check to be sure the holes line up.

 

Many old 3 terminal solenoids will work.

 

 

Oh and when you mount it be sure to clean the area to get good ground.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,485]

This is what the neutral switch will look like. Your pto uses the same switch.

The speed stick that controls the hydro will active the switch in the neutral position so look at that linkage.

 

The ignition switch is part number 103990 and used for years. Very popular with aftermarket suppliers.

 

Get a mid 70's Ford solenoid from an auto supplier. They look almost identical and heavy duty for this application.

 

Garry

 

[oliver2-44 8,836]

I noticed you greased the new starter gear. You might want to clean that grease off as it’s best for that gear to run dry or use some dry moly or Teflon on it. The dust from mowing and dirt work will. Cause the starter gear to bind when it tries to engage. 
 

I have the identical tractor and it doesn’t have the electric up down switch. This past year I did a major lawn shaping and drainage project with a dozer blade and mid mount grader blade. Put 80 hours on it.   For dirt work I run fluid filled turf tires with chains and 66 lb weights on each rear wheel, plus me and it’s a beast

[55reasons 171]

25 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

I noticed you greased the new starter gear. You might want to clean that grease off as it’s best for that gear to run dry or use some dry moly or Teflon on it. The dust from mowing and dirt work will. Cause the starter gear to bind when it tries to engage. 
 

I have the identical tractor and it doesn’t have the electric up down switch. This past year I did a major lawn shaping and drainage project with a dozer blade and mid mount grader blade. Put 80 hours on it.   For dirt work I run fluid filled turf tires with chains and 66 lb weights on each rear wheel, plus me and it’s a beast

It’s funny that you mentioned the grease.  I popped it out of the box, greased it by HABIT, and when I went to stick it in an saw how open the flywheel gear was, I wiped it all off.   Lol.

 

Good catch though!

[55reasons 171]

Another question.

 

What do we know about this bolt manufacturer?

 

(These were the rear wheel lug bolts)

 

Nice detail stamped into the bolt heads.

 

I could really use (5) more in this same condition...