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Darren Southard

Transmission swap

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Darren Southard

Ya tried pulling hub with a 3 jaw puller, that's how broke, wasn't paying attention to placement of jaws on hub. Going to take grinder and try grinding flush and tapping, got to move, but even with brass punch still rounded edges off.  

So is there a different puller I should be using

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Darren Southard

Sorry grinder and grinding refers to hitch pin, not hub

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Darren Southard said:

different puller

What I do is take the three Jaws off of the three jaw puller and replace them with an old hub. Then use 5 bolts to connect the two hubs.

Even then, it can literally take weeks to get one of those to move.

If the seal has been leaking for a while near that hub it is very beneficial.

 

Heat. Penetrating oil. Patience. They can be really tough.

 

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ebinmaine

This isn't the best picture but it's the only one I could find. Zoom in a bit on the hub area and it might be a little more descriptive.

You can see two of the three tabs between the hubs. That's where the three jaws would have bolted on.

 

IMG_20181225_144906123.jpg.51e73940d7cfdd12f3f040b6e6aeca4f.jpg

 

 

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Darren Southard

Ya tried pulling hub with a 3 jaw puller, that's how broke, wasn't paying attention to placement of jaws on hub. Going to take grinder and try grinding flush and tapping, got to move, but even with brass punch still rounded edges off.  

 

This post was supposed to be before my last one, I don't know what happened

But anyway thank you, will take time now that I know it's not a 5 minute job. Lol

Thank you again

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Darren Southard

Ebinmaine, just saw your pic, thank you, got it

One other question to split trans, do I have to remove brake drum and drive pully??

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Darren Southard said:

Ebinmaine, just saw your pic, thank you, got it

One other question to split trans, do I have to remove brake drum and drive pully??

You do. They'll come right off. Usually.

 

I can't remember which one is which but there will be a bolt in the end of one of the shafts. The other pulley will probably be held on with an allen set screw.

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Darren Southard

Ok thank you so much, getting back to it, I'll post my progress, apparently not any time soon. Lol, have a great day

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pfrederi

Brake drum has a bolt Input pulley a set screw.  Short case down when you split it.

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stevasaurus

The input pulley has a set screw.  The brake drum may have a "C" clip.  As far as that pin in the back...cut the pin with a Sawsall in between the hitch and trans case, the you will have 4 short pieces to drill and press out then.  Sorry about you having one of those "it's a Bear" transmissions.  Getting those outside pieces off is the hardest part.  The case will open fairly easily and the gears will just lift out...any bad bearings will also tap out easily.

   Try to use a 2' pry bar behind the input pulley and behind the brake drum.  Be gentle and turn the pulley/drum as you tap...if it breaks loose, you can use your 3 point puller to get the rest.

   I just recently re-built my brother's transmission.  We destroyed both hubs and finally just used a 4" grinder to slice off parts of the hubs to get them off.  You can grind down without touching the axle and use a cold chisel and ball peen to snap the pieces apart.  The grinder way only takes a few minutes.  @A-Z Tractor is a vendor on this site...contact him for replacement hubs.

 DSCF9252.JPG

 

DSCF9253.JPG

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Darren Southard

okay thanks for info

After spending almost all day yesterday, and only getting hitch, hitch pin, and both pulleys off, figure take a few days off,

I'll post more on progress.  Thanks again gentleman

Have a great day and be safe

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Darren Southard

Well back at it and, honestly wasn't to bad, couple hrs and both hubs off without breaking, and trans split, now to clean up, see what parts I need. 

 

Ebinmaine thanks again for info was able to find hub locally for $25(score) and use your method. Worked great, thanks again gentleman for all your knowledge, and sharing.  Have a great day

15873261347725014102691628290459.jpg

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Darren Southard

Well after cleaning half of trans, learned axle wore into case on very end, looks like should be a lip all the way around for seal, so maybe start looking for a used half if can find one

15873309009078935147957995721626.jpg

15873309191025753225378245269182.jpg

15873310535308412192416933955331.jpg

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ebinmaine
3 hours ago, Darren Southard said:

Ebinmaine thanks again for info was able to find hub locally for $25(score) and use your method

Can't take credit for it but I'm very glad to "re-share" with you.

I learned that method here on Redsquare a few years back.

 

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ebinmaine

They're out there to be had.

 

Throw an ad here in the wanted section.

Maybe contact A-Z tractor in PA.

 

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Darren Southard

Thank you will do

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stevasaurus

Stop Halt...something is not right.  That case half is cast with the part number #3901.  If your other half is cast with the part number #3900, then you have a 3 speed transmission with 1" axles...not 1 1/8".  That would make it a #5053  Your 1257 should have the #5058 heavy duty 3 speed with the bevel gear differential with 1 1/8" axles.

1.  Measure your axle diameters.

2.  Check the cast number on the other case half.  The #5058 would have #6940 & #6941.

3.  If you have 1 1/8" axles, somebody drilled out the axle casting in the case halves.  Could explain why that one in the picture looks so weird.

4.  Open your differential...it looks like you have the bevel gear because I do not see the 4 holes in the differential end plate that would be there for the pinion posts.

5.  If I am correct, you need to find the #6940 & #6941 case halves to complete this transmission.

6.  Also take a good look at the frame where the trans bolts in.  See if the plate was changed out, or holes were egged to accept the difference in the bolt pattern.

7.  Let us know, this could get expensive and you may want to explore those other options.  :bow-blue:

8.  F9-5 on the trans half is the casting date.  F = June,  9 = 9th,  5 = 1965

 

@WHX24  @Achto  @Racinbob   @953 nut  Take a look at this.  :eusa-think:

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Darren Southard

Stevasaurus there was no  bearing left, the needles are stuck inside the case all down the tube and some were in body itself, the seal was gone also. The top of axle wore into case, or maybe just the race??  Ran out of time yesterday, and been trying to find one, with no luck, closest I found is a gentleman selling transaxel near Philly pa, which is about 3.5 hrs from me, hey maybe he'll ship.  Thanks for all info and help. I'll let you know how battle is going

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ebinmaine

Just looked at the pic again.

Looks like the race is all gone through and the case half is partially damaged.

 

Pop that race out when you can and clean up the case.

I'm wondering if you can replace the bearing with new and be ok.....?

 

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stevasaurus

Do all the checks I said before you try to order anything.  We need to know what you have there.  If it was drilled out, it could be why it failed.  It is the wrong case half for 1 1/8" axles.  Some of the guys I tagged may be able to help find those case haves you need...if I am correct in what you have there.

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Darren Southard

I'll get on this soon, if not today tomorrow, thank you so much guys again, appreciate it, I would have never know that

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Darren Southard

Steveasurus, read your responses, can't find them here, but via email, my curiosity also, going to have answer and pics in couple hours, I'll get back to you

Also, noticed "wear" in case half that stood out to me when split, so I'm thinkibg someone put 2 diff half together, at least hoping🙏🙏🙏

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WHX??
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

bearing with new and be ok.....?

No that case half is scrap. I don't think from studying the pics the cases would have drilled out Steve. Guess we've see crazier  things tho. The axle bearing surface has to be somewhat scarred from chewing into the bearing race and tube tho. I would have thought the 1533's would have been taken out as well? 

 

Yes get us that info from Steve's list and do not order anything till we can let you know for sure what's going on there. Hate to see you spend on parts that don't work. Had enough of that on another project. Good catch on the part numbers Steve. Best guess so far is that is not  the orginal 1257 tranny. Good news here is you are in a part of the country for parts. 

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Darren Southard

Okay guys well, tranny was changed out, 3900 cast into this side, and bolt holes are not egged out on mounting plate, so going to try find a 5058 and go from there, well see what happens, I'll put out want add and couple other things, and see where leads me. 

If only difference between two transmissions is mounting bolt locations, then maybe go back to original.  See what happens, thanks guys 

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stevasaurus

What diameter are your axles??   Do you have the bevel gear differential???   

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