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dv800special

modern LED lights on a 68' 800 special

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953 nut

Your engine Spec number is from 1970 or 1971 and the voltage regulator on these would be mounted externally. There should ba a couple wires coming from behind the flywheel cover that will connect to the AC terminals of the regulator.

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dv800special

@ebinmaine @ZXT @953 nut Ok guys, so I hooked up the new rectifier and it’s now charging the battery! Thanks! So now I’ve moved to the lights. I measured the voltage for the rear light. 12.6volts. But when I took a reading for the front it reads -12.6 volts. So I’m kinda confused. I traced the front lights back and I’m using red on red (positive) and black on black (negative) and that’s what I’m getting. If I put the black wire from the multimeter to red on the tractor it read ya 12.6volts. So I confused why, how ever that’s probably why the lights quit working before..?

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ZXT
9 minutes ago, dv800special said:

@ebinmaine @ZXT @953 nut Ok guys, so I hooked up the new rectifier and it’s now charging the battery! Thanks! So now I’ve moved to the lights. I measured the voltage for the rear light. 12.6volts. But when I took a reading for the front it reads -12.6 volts. So I’m kinda confused. I traced the front lights back and I’m using red on red (positive) and black on black (negative) and that’s what I’m getting. If I put the black wire from the multimeter to red on the tractor it read ya 12.6volts. So I confused why, how ever that’s probably why the lights quit working before..?

If you have a wire running directly off of the hot post to the positive lead of the light and ground to the negative lead, there is no reason it should be reading -, unless the leads are swapped on your multimeter. I think I asked before but never got an answer. Are they LED lights? I know polarity does not matter on a traditional light bulb. As for DC LED lights, I don't know. I would make sure your meter is hooked up correctly and check again.

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953 nut
46 minutes ago, ZXT said:

I know polarity does not matter on a traditional light bulb. As for DC LED lights, I don't know.

The LED lights that I installed on my GT-14 will only work if the red is connected to a positive wire.

1 hour ago, dv800special said:

If I put the black wire from the multimeter to red on the tractor it read ya 12.6volts. So I confused why,

Some digital multimeters will read the voltage in both directions but will have a minus sign "-" in front if connected backward.

Edited by 953 nut
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troutbum70

I have led's I plan to put on a couple of my tractors, they have black wire and white. And they only work with the black to + and white to -.

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dv800special

@zxt yes they are led lights. Also Can my B+ lead from my rectifier go directly to the battery? Or does it need to go through the ignition switch?

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, dv800special said:

@zxt yes they are led lights. Also Can my B+ lead from my rectifier go directly to the battery? Or does it need to go through the ignition switch?

Not positive what ignition system you're dealing with but I know on some vehicles and tractors that circuit MUST go through the ignition switch.

 

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pfrederi

I do not know if the solid state regulators have a cutout...  It may slowly drain your battery if you connect it directly. The ignition switch physically disconnects it.

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dv800special

Ok, if I am reading the ignition diagram right, it shows the b+ going to the ignition. So on a conventional 5 prong ignition switch would the “M” prong or magnito prong be the correct connection spot for the b+ from the rectifier?

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, dv800special said:

Ok, if I am reading the ignition diagram right, it shows the b+ going to the ignition. So on a conventional 5 prong ignition switch would the “M” prong or magnito prong be the correct connection spot for the b+ from the rectifier?

No no no.....

 

There are two types of standard 5 prong ignition switch.

 

Do you have a points, battery ignition?

 

Have you verified that you have the right type of switch?

 

 

M is magneto.

 

B is battery.

 

R is rectifier / regulator.

 

S, solenoid.

 

A, if it has one is accessory.

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dv800special

I don’t know. It has an external coil and condenser. Does that mean it doesn’t have points?

0B1E61E2-5DFB-4DEE-9032-61AA2329B073.jpeg

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dv800special
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

No no no.....

 

There are two types of standard 5 prong ignition switch.

 

Do you have a points, battery ignition?

 

Have you verified that you have the right type of switch?

 

 

M is magneto.

 

B is battery.

 

R is rectifier / regulator.

 

S, solenoid.

 

A, if it has one is accessory.

Also this is the ignition type from the previous motor, which had points. And a generator. 

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pfrederi

Based on the picture of your engine if you have an ignition switch with an M terminal  it is the WRONG switch.  You need one with an I terminal.  The B+ wire from  the rectifier goes to the R terminal.

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ebinmaine

@dv800special

considering that you have a replacement motor in there and have changed to the more modern type of rectifier you could use the schematic diagram from like a 1974 B or C series.

 

The Toro part number from that would be 103990.

 

I haven't had good luck with a couple of the super cheap 10 or $12 switches. Generic stuff.

 

If you find that part number in an equivalent brand that is good quality like Stens, Borg Warner, Standard, or Cole Hersee...

You'll be a lot better off.

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953 nut

Buy a 103-990 ignition switch and follow this diagram.

5b202f3dea878_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.a45b0505e2c823cc5019a77d8143fd27.jpg

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dv800special

@953 nut awesome diagram, very easy to follow. I bought a new ignition with the R. I’ll let you guys know how it goes

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ZXT
2 minutes ago, dv800special said:

@953 nut awesome diagram, very easy to follow. I bought a new ignition with the R. I’ll let you guys know how it goes

I'm not sure how your tractor was running at all with the wrong ignition switch. On your new one, make good and sure that it has an I instead of an M. 

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dv800special
On 2/25/2020 at 8:53 PM, ZXT said:

I'm not sure how your tractor was running at all with the wrong ignition switch. On your new one, make good and sure that it has an I instead of an M. 

Well it was working bc I had a separate toggle switch with constant power that I could switch to allow the coil to function. But anyway I got it all rewired. Everything is on the new ignition switch and the battery is being charged. So thank you guys for the help. It was a great learning experience as well! @ebinmaine @953 nut @ZXT 

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, dv800special said:

Well it was working bc I had a separate toggle switch with constant power that I could switch to allow the coil to function. But anyway I got it all required. Everything is on the new ignition switch and the battery is being charged. So thank you guys for the help. It was a great learning experience as well! @ebinmaine @953 nut @ZXT 

Absolutely AWESOME!

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