Pops 18 #1 Posted February 2, 2020 I just purchased this tractor the previous owner started it by jumping the solenoid. He told me the switch was bad. When I started to work on it the connector body looked like it was partially burnt and the blue, black and red were pull out (or missing, yanked out and destroyed the connector) only the tan and white wires were in place. I tried the switch on another tractor and it started after several times of wiggling . I put a new pig tail to the switch and found the blue wire,and reconnected it and after looking at the wire demystifying I figured where the red and black wire went and connected. Then I had to rewire the red wires in the fuse box, it was also missing. Then I found the purple and black coming from the oil relay cut and reattached to the solenoid then installed battery. I tried to start it, found I was getting no fire to the plug. No warning lights or the volt meter came on in the run mode. In the start mode the oil lights blinks one time and the volt meter works and starter cranks, but no fire. The seat light does not come on and there is no switch for the seat, wires are under the the fender, I figure since it cranks they have been wire together. The head lights were wired direct to the battery I disconnected this wire and taped it. I am not sure if the switch is bad it is 116338, this costs $36 dollars, I don’t want to buy it until I checked with fellow members about this problem. I also check the new battery after charging and showed that it was good. I was a supporter for 2 years and lost interest in the sport and now I am interested again but it will not let me purchase and says that I already purchased it. I have sent message to the moderators waiting on there help. This has been a long story need some advice. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,006 #2 Posted February 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Pops said: after looking at the wire demystifying Considering the amount of bad wiring you have encountered I would suggest following the guide and rewiring the whole thing. If you don't you will end up running into more time consuming little problems every time you turn around. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #3 Posted February 3, 2020 The procedure to check the switch is on a page here. Click on the picture and again on the page that comes up. Some of these switches do not have the terminals identified correctly. Go by the illustrations. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biged77 107 #4 Posted February 4, 2020 Looking at your wiring diagram and your great description of the problem, I'm not sure how the PO shut the engine off since the dark blue wire from the magneto was not connected to the ignition switch M terminal (grounded in off position). Are you sure he got the engine to run at all? Also, if the voltmeter comes on in start but not run then either the switch is bad or the white wire is connected to the wrong switch terminal. I would buy a new switch if I were you. Just some things to ponder, just be glad you don't have and more relays like the later models. Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pops 18 #5 Posted February 10, 2020 Replace dragging (bad starter) cleaned and set magneto (coil), now getting small orange sparks very small showing on my spark plug tester) not enough to start engine. Is this a failing magneto? I am getting 12 volts to the wire going to the magneto. Main question am I correct saying if I have a safety switch problem the engine would not crank at all? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,441 #6 Posted February 11, 2020 12 volts in the wire going to the magneto will kill the magneto. Literally like the magic smoke will be released. Magneto ignitions are self-powered and the single ignition wire when grounded to the chassis or battery negative shuts the ignition off. With the ignition wire not connected to anything the magneto should work. Please post the tractor model number and serial number plus all the numbers off the engine decal. Something does not add up here. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pops 18 #7 Posted February 11, 2020 Gary disconnected the blue wire to switch and it fired right up, new switch arrived in mail today 116338. You mentioned this earlier in this post 1997 314h model 73403 with m14 kohler. I had help today and I believe we were actually grounding the the wire showing 12 volts not the magneto. I hope the new switch cures this so I can turn it off with the key. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biged77 107 #8 Posted February 12, 2020 If the new switch doesn't work recheck the wiring to the switch connector. The switch diagram showing which wire goes where can be confusing. At least it was for me. Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pops 18 #9 Posted February 14, 2020 Ed you are right on, well I figured out today and what was screwing me up was the drawing of the switch on the wheel horse manual saying the switch could be marked wrong and I was trying to put the wires the way the picture shows on the drawing believing the new switch was not marked correctly, well the switch was correct and drawing was wrong.Garry sent me a picture of the correct drawing of the switch and it matched my new switch and now every thing works. What made this difficult wires were cut and some yanked out. Thanks Ed , Garry and 953 Nut. By the way old switch was bad check this it’s vom meter. Jim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biged77 107 #10 Posted February 14, 2020 Glad you got it fixed. Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites