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Stormin

C-125 in need of Some TLC

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peter lena

stormin, agree with the view as a worker, rather typical neglect and abuse , obviously a better seat pan, metal, not plastic, and a new seat, easy swap , and while you are there , basic electric wiring check and verify operation . i isolate every step of wiring  , often easily find the issue , rather than combining it , adding to the frustration . all lubrication changes and greasing , lubing choke and throttle cables for easy use. looks like rear axle oil seals , probably a shift boot,.sea-foam gas treatment , along with a tune up, you obviously , know what needs to be done. your mate is lucky to have you involved , let us know how you are doing , good luck , pete   

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Stormin

 Oh there's a list, Pete. 

   It now runs after a points clean up and setting. And sweetly after a warm up and carb adjustment. :thumbs: Carb seems to be a plastic one. :scratchead: Works OK though.

   May need a new HT lead. Doesn't look to good. Drove it in and out of the workshop ok after blowing the tyres up. Doing that let me know the rears are water ballasted. Wee'd on the floor. :rolleyes: I also think the brake needs attention. Stops dead when you depress the clutch. You can push it about easily though.

 

  Another steering wheel is on the cards. It has a 'eck of a wobble. The steel insert in it is very loose. The shaft is fine.

 

   Engine oil will be changed and trans drained, flush and refilled. Some nice cream in there. Gear lever boot is practically none existent. Axle seals etc. etc. etc.

 

 First thing though, is to sort out the charging system. Cos it isn't. :( Electrics not my forte and my tame electrician is currently sunning himself in Spain.

 

 

 

 

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ebinmaine

:popcorn:

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Stormin
27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

:popcorn:

 

Hope you've got plenty in stock,  Eric. Could take a while. :D

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

Hope you've got plenty in stock,  Eric. Could take a while. :D

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn:   :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:  :popcorn:

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PeacemakerJack

:text-yeahthat:

 

me too

 

:popcorn:

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Achto

I'm in!!! :popcorn:

 

As for the charging system, don't be scared to dig into it your self. There is a 3 wire plug on the voltage regulator/rectifier, unplug it. Set your multi-meter to AC and insert the leads into the two out side terminals of the plug. Start the engine and rev it up. You should see around 30 volts AC if the charging stator is good. If this checks out then make sure that the body of the reg/rec has a good ground. Plug the reg/rec back in, set your multi-meter to DC, start the engine and test your voltage at the battery. You should see around 14vdc. If you have AC voltage but not the correct DC voltage then I would suspect that you need a new reg/rec.

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The Tuul Crib

l cant beat what Eric has! lets try these

im in !!!

 

:happy-jumpeveryone::happy-jumpeveryone:

:happy-jumpeveryone::happy-jumpeveryone:

:happy-jumpeveryone::happy-jumpeveryone:

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ZXT
8 hours ago, Stormin said:

 

 

 First thing though, is to sort out the charging system. Cos it isn't. :( Electrics not my forte and my tame electrician is currently sunning himself in Spain.

Connections.. Connections.. Connections! Clean them! If it's sat outside for any amount of time (which it appears to have done) it will need them cleaned. 

4 hours ago, Achto said:

I'm in!!! :popcorn:

 

As for the charging system, don't be scared to dig into it your self. There is a 3 wire plug on the voltage regulator/rectifier, unplug it. Set your multi-meter to AC and insert the leads into the two out side terminals of the plug. Start the engine and rev it up. You should see around 30 volts AC if the charging stator is good. If this checks out then make sure that the body of the reg/rec has a good ground. Plug the reg/rec back in, set your multi-meter to DC, start the engine and test your voltage at the battery. You should see around 14vdc. If you have AC voltage but not the correct DC voltage then I would suspect that you need a new reg/rec.

:text-yeahthat:

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Pullstart

I’m sure this one’s in fine capable hands, Norm!  

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Tractorhead

Nice project Norm,

 

firstly a Happy New Year to all.

About electric, i‘m with ZXT, didn‘t see a lot of Switches, so there just few Cables.

 

absolutely no witchcraft.

Clean all mechanically contacts and contactsurfaces, i would suggesting firstly a steelbrush,

in second a brass brush. After blanking the Metal, protect the Surface for re oxidation with Vaseline or battery pole grease.

Only a lightly film not too much.

( both the same, just battpolgrease was colored)

Check the crimping on the contacts, if they can be riped from cable only with fingers, they Fail and have to be redone.

a well crimped Connector wil not removed from wire by pulling, normally is, the wire has to rip close to the connector.

 

so i telled all my Workers, they have to pull with force on each Connector.

If it throw, doesn‘t matter it was wrong, make it simply new.

 

If connectors beeing too corroded, i would also suggesting re new them

because uneven contact surfaces can also happen in dubious results at least a melting connector.

 

but was my pleasure to you, change at least one Fuse please,

 

I think i see a fuseholder for glass fuses between positive terminal on Solenoid and keylock, but it hungs in the middle of nowhere.

change this fuse closer to the positive pole, that prevents a contact to Ground before fuseterminal is reached.

 

As close to the positive Terminal on battery would my suggest, because the plastics of battery case wasn‘t conductive.

A given Value in Cars or Trucks was 10-15cm away from the positive terminal, i set them a hand wide far.

 

At the charging problems, maybe there is a second inline glasfuse somewhere hidden in this wire harness.

this fuse i think i have found is the minimum, to protect the Mainline to Keylock and all other wires

they coming from Keylock with the fuserate given by the strenght of inserted fuse.

 

So this will be actual the Masterfuse also for charging and for the Light current electric.

 

We guide you thru the „jungle“ of the wire harness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Stormin

  Borrowed a multi meter today. I'll get one of my own next time I go into town. Followed the instructions I've been given above. Stator charging OK and regulator/rectifier also. So battery must be getting a charge I assume.

  But another little puzzle. When you turn the key the ammeter shows a discharge as it should. But when the engine is running, doesn't show a charge. I tried another ammeter, removed from a car many years ago, with the same result.

 Any ideas or suggestions?

Edited by Stormin

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Lee1977

The charging circuit goes thru the switch, my guess is that the switch is bad. I've had to replace the switch in both my 520-H and my 312-8 and they are both newer then that C-125.

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midpack
4 hours ago, Stormin said:

 

  But another little puzzle. When you turn the key the ammeter shows a discharge as it should. But when the engine is running, doesn't show a charge. I tried another ammeter, removed from a car many years ago, with the same result.

 Any ideas or suggestions?

I had that problem. It ended up being in the key switch plug. One of the tangs (u shaped) had broken off inside one end of the connector.

Took about a year to finally find it. Lol

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Stormin

  Well a little progress. It seems to be charging ok. Some starting and stopping over the last couple of days, to see if the battery goes flat. Been ok so far. May be a switch fault as suggested.

 Plastic fender etc removed and the trans drained of milk. Gave the whole tractor a pressure wash this morning and got all the grease and grime off. Looks better already. I found when checking tyre pressures that the rear wheels are water ballasted. It will be getting ag tyres at some stage, as his woodland is quite hilly mainly.Trans has yet to be flushed with diesel, when I have something to sit on. Also engine oil to change. Everything else is well greased.

 My mate is getting another fender. Steel one. When he gets over, I'll see how far he wants me to go and give him a list of what's required. Not much really, but another seat and steering wheel are at the top. Maybe a switch also..

  One good thing is the tin ware is in good condition. No holes I can see or bad pitting. Just surface rust that sands off. But painting will be up to him. Depends on how soon he wants to put it to work.

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Sparky
On 12/30/2019 at 3:20 PM, Stormin said:

  Carb seems to be a plastic one. :scratchead: Works OK though.

 

Plastic? I’ve never seen a plastic carb for a K series.

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Stormin
4 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Plastic? I’ve never seen a plastic carb for a K series.

 

  Neither have I. Look at the photo's. It's black, smooth and spotless and feels like plastic to the touch. You'd expect it to be slightly oxidised, considering it's been in a damp shed for two years, even if it's painted. I'll take a better look at it. Maybe scratch it.

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Stormin

 Carb is not plastic after all. Gave it a little scratch and it's alli as usuall.

 

 Replacement fender arrived today and is now fitted. Looking better already.

 

P1030152.JPG.fa60e0ccde3e1cf5c42d4c0d6444a3b4.JPG

 

Thanks go to Chris Sutton for spotting it on e-bay. :handgestures-thumbup:

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ebinmaine

Looks good Norm!

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Tractorhead

Nice work norm.

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Stormin
On ‎1‎/‎5‎/‎2020 at 1:36 PM, Stormin said:

  Well a little progress. It seems to be charging ok. Some starting and stopping over the last couple of days, to see if the battery goes flat. Been ok so far. May be a switch fault as suggested.

 

   I noticed the other day something I had not noticed before. When starting the engine, I go right from on, to the start position.  I have now discovered that the starter is turning the engine as soon as the key is turned on and before the start position. If the engine doesn't start and the key released to go back to the on position, the starter motor is still running. Though not engaging the ring gear. Can't be heard with the engine running of course. Switch problem?

  Got a new switch today and fitted it this afternoon. Same thing happening. I'm thinking two things.

 (1) The wiring has been messed about a bit at sometime. There is no plug on the harness to the switch. Female connectors on the wires. 4 wires. Red. Orange. Green. Black. I need to know which wire connects to which terminal. Just in case they have been connected wrongly. The wiring diagram doesn't show that, as it is supposed to have a plug connector.

 

(2) Is the starter solenoid faulty. Maybe sticking in start mode. Can it be tested?

 

  I hope all that makes sense. Any help gladly accepted before I go doolally and set fire to the thing.

 

 

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, Stormin said:

Is the starter solenoid faulty. Maybe sticking in start mode. Can it be tested?

I can't really help you with the color of the wiring. The only thing I would be able to do is back-trace it to make sure the wire coming from the correct terminal is going to the solenoid itself.

 

 

As far as testing the starter... The way I do it is to get a known good battery and a set of jumper cables. Remove starter from engine.

Clamp ground-to-starter case.

Clamp positive to battery and firmly touch the end of the positive cable to the post on the starter. It will spark some.

Best to hold the starter down because it can jump around on you.

 

it isn't exactly necessary to remove it from the engine but I was told many many moons ago that you should do that to eliminate the possibility of bad contact between engine and starter. Also gives you the chance to clean the mounting pad from starter to engine which is your ground.

 

 

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Stormin

Thanks Eric. The starter is fine. No problem there.

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ebinmaine

Can you see the back of the ignition switch and if so are the terminals marked with a letter?

 

Maybe that would help you determine which one is SUPPOSED to be where...

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