C-125 in need of Some TLC

[Stormin 9,975]

Richard (anglotraction) has sent me some info on MoM.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

This should be the switch. Click on the picture. One of the next pictures show the wire locations.

Garry

[Stormin 9,975]

 A new switch has been fitted and connections checked. Several times. Same result. Switch on and starter motor engages. When engine stops turning, without starting and Bendix returns, starter motor continues to run until switch turned off.

 Took a solenoid off my C-125 and tried that with the same result.

  I'm suspecting a wiring fault. There are no safety switches fitted and the wires have been joined together. Live to negative.  I'm thinking of running two new wires too the solenoid.  Bypassing those in the harness. Also may swap the starter motor and the ammeter. Though I can't see either of those being the problem.

  I'm beginning to wish I'd never seen the darn thing.  

 

  I've just realised something on reading back. When the key was originally in the on position, the ammeter showed a discharge but did not energise the starter. Oh boy! The plot thickens. I'll go back over everything I've done.

 

Edited January 18, 2020 by Stormin

[ebinmaine 63,116]

I like the idea of jumping the harnesses to create a correct setup for testing.

 

For kicks maybe disconnect/jump the ammeter?

Really shouldn't be the problem....

 

 

[Stormin 9,975]

24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

For kicks maybe disconnect/jump the ammeter?

Really shouldn't be the problem....

 

 

 Been thinking of doing that an all.

[Stormin 9,975]

   Well a bit of an update.

 

  After some more testing this, trying that, swapping t'other, all to no avail, I ran a new wire from switch to solenoid. BINGO! That cured that problem. Only to have another arise.

 

  The engine kept stopping and faffing about when trying to restart. I found the p.t.o lever was moving slightly. Investigation showed the switch had been messed with. So that was removed and a link put in the connecting block.

 

  That done and the charging problem was still a problem. So I decided to have a look at the stator. Took off the engine cover etc. Undoing the screws holding the screen on, strange noises emanated from behind the flywheel. No need to guess what was making them.

 

Removing the fly wheel revealed a sorry stator and magnets in a right state. If you'll pardon the pun.

 

 

 

 

 

  Bit of a mess and no wonder it wasn't charging. All is not lost though. A Raider 10 engine I rebuilt a while ago, has donated it's flywheel and stator.

 Tomorrow I'll reassemble things and hopefully all will be well.

[Tractorhead 8,610]

Aiiii, that looks not good.

 

maybe you can later fix that flywheel with a handfull of flat neodyme magnets.

they will stacked arround first and will be glued later in with 2K epoxy.

 

for first testing it works with a drip secons glue, but for a longterm run i would make a Mask out of Silicone,

that is minimal deeper than the original magnets.

So that later the magnets will be covered by the 2K epoxy and be sealed.

 

because the neodym magnets are much stronger than older magnets in the past, you can be increase the gap a bit (about1mm more)

by same magnetic flux.

 

[Stormin 9,975]

48 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

maybe you can later fix that flywheel with a handfull of flat neodyme magnets.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion, Stefan. But I don't think I will.

[Stormin 9,975]

 Put everything back together this morning. Fired up the engine and tested for current from the replacement stator. Showing a nice 30 volts. 

 

  Checked across the battery terminals and did I see 14amps? No!   I think I'll have to get another rectifier or two.

Edited January 26, 2020 by Stormin

[Tractorhead 8,610]

How did you measure the 30 Amps?

 

 

[Lee1977 6,217]

11 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

How did you measure the 30 Amps?

 

 

 

He ment 30 volts AC.

[Tractorhead 8,610]

Ah ok, that make sense.

i wondered about the 30 Amps with no load.

 

[Stormin 9,975]

Corrected post. Thanks for pointing it out.

[Stormin 9,975]

  Two new rectifiers arrived last night much to my surprise. The  Chinese version. Not supposed to be here 'till Monday at the earliest.

  

  Fitted one this morning and all is well. Ammeter showing a nice charge. Am I a happy bunny or what.  It's been a right pain, but I now know a little bit more about electrics.

 

  All that's left now is to flush the trans and refill with fresh oil, change engine oil and a little adjustment to the governor.

 

[peter lena 8,064]

stormin, good job and follow thru on that ! typical to have another issue crop up on top of the main one. i usually correct the first problem and verify its function / operation . then get after the next issue. i like the fact that you are staying on top of your horse issues. after resetting my governor , i started to lube each end of the swing/ axle point  of movement. initially , kind of a rusty crud oused  out  of those two points. but it was moving so much easier and smoother. now i regularly lightly lube my governor shaft and it works with total ease. pete 

[Stormin 9,975]

Trans flush and refilled. Also engine oil changed.

 

  When I came to adjust the governor, I found the arm was loose on the spindle. That was because the pinch bolt was not tight. When I came to tighten it, the nut fell off. Along with that end of the bolt.  New bolt fitted and the governor works as it should.

 

  The tractor is already now to go to it's new home. Being collected some time next week.

 

  I'd like to thank those who have given me advice and support. Much appreciated.