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BenHolcomb

856 by Holcomb's Auto Body

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Mikey the Monkey

cant wait to see it all done. looks like it will be a real show stopper

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Achto

:popcorn:

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953 nut

:WRS:

:text-coolphotos:     So few of us have a life long history with our :wh: that we love. Your backstory is great and it is so good to see the 856 getting so much love.        :confusion-confused:              I would think the 855 may be feeling a bit lonely now, you better go over to your Dad's and bring it home too.     :ychain:

 

 

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Pullstart

If I haven’t already @BenHolcomb:text-welcomewave:!

 

That 856 sure is purty!  I bet if @PeacemakerJack hasn’t yet seen this thread, he’ll be all over the back story and how life as you know :wh: came to be!

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dclarke

Great story on this old horse, can't wait to see it finished. Keep the pics coming. 

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The Tuul Crib

Nice job so far !   Im in!

 

:popcorn:

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WHX??

:popcorn:

Not sure if I woulda messed with the originality tho. Must be the Minnesota in me talking...thanks  @Shynon

An 855 is now officially on my bucket list .. have to have a little brother for a 1055..... :)

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ZXT
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

 I would think the 855 may be feeling a bit lonely now, you better go over to your Dad's and bring it home too.     :ychain:

 

 

Sounds like that tractor would've been the better candidate for a resto. The paint on the 856 looked excellent - I wouldn't have been able to bring myself to erase that part of its' history. 

 

Looks like you'll have a nice looking tractor when you're done!

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oliver2-44

Love the back story and can’t wait to see some red parts 

Many of us are amateur painters wanting to learn more.
Please share as much detail on the body work as you can 

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Mr Magoo

Looks like it will be a real beauty when you get it done. I have an 856 that I need to put tires on soon and was wondering what is the difference with the tri-ribs vs lets say turf tires? Pretty obvious what the difference would be with the ag tires. 

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BenHolcomb

Thank you all for the nice words. I'll enjoy showing the progress and would be happy to include detail about bodywork. The decision to repaint was mostly because I'd like it to last another 50 years and I have access to the equipment. There was quite a bit of rust not seen in the photos which has now been stopped in its tracks. Another factor was the care (time) required to maintain a patina'd look through wax, oils, etc did not jive well with me. I want to hose it off and call it good...lazy I guess. 

 

 

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BenHolcomb
1 hour ago, Mr Magoo said:

Looks like it will be a real beauty when you get it done. I have an 856 that I need to put tires on soon and was wondering what is the difference with the tri-ribs vs lets say turf tires? Pretty obvious what the difference would be with the ag tires. 

I noticed a bit lighter steering with the tri ribs as well as a bit rougher ride over roots and small bumps. I think they look cool like a little big tractor so I'm ok with the trade off. 

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BenHolcomb

Various bits waiting to be primed. A sand blaster would have made this job much easier as cast "pot" metal is very difficult to get into the recesses. I do shy away from using abrasive media blasters on large flat tins like the hood or seat pan as it can do more damage than good.

 

I used a 4'' poly carbide disc on a hand held electric grinder to do 90% of the paint and rust removal. PPE is a must as the dust is highly carcinagiac. Eye, ear, and lung protection always unless you like tinninitus and trips to the eye Dr. 

 

We will use a metal etching primer that does not require sanding and can be painted right on top of for these pieces. 

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BenHolcomb

Incase anyone likes this color here's the paint code we chose. This paint is a single stage meaning it does not require clearcoating. It is the budget line that PPG produces. We have found it very adequate and cost effective for jobs like this. If I'm lucky a quart will do the entire tractor and deck. Also shown is a reducer and activator "hardner". The hardner is needed to speed set up time and the reducer thins the paint to the correct consistancy for the gun. There are formulas to follow that will get you in the ballpark mixing wise. 

 

Lesson #2 most important is the surface preparation. Whatever your painting it must be cleaned and degreased. A simple wash with soapy water and a degreaser like simple green or Awesome sold at the "dollar store" works nicely. Compressed air will remove water from any hidden recesses. If you dont have that available towl it off and let the rest evaporate, stick it in a heat duct, oven etc. Lastly a wax and grease remover will get any hand oils off the surface. If your feeling extra fancy a few passes with a tack cloth will wisk away fibers from the cloth you just used. Make sure the area you are painting in is as dust free as possible. We typically wet down the concrete floor to minimize dust and debris kicking up. 

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Racinbob

Always a Ford man and loving red I've had a couple of personal trucks and a company truck with the E4 paint code over the years. I've always thought it would be great on a :wh: but I have zero experience with a spray gun so I've always stuck to regal red. I'm looking forward to seeing one done with it. :)

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ebinmaine

Great to see that ole horse being treated so well.

Nice work Ben!!

 

 

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BenHolcomb

Not too shabby. 

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WHX??

Now I am no painter by any stretch Ben but thats why I pay Dan to be my bro! :D

 He and I are accustomed to complete dismantling, blasting and spraying parts individually then using self etching primer with Van Sickle IH red with their reducers/hardeners. It's close enough to :wh: RED for hand grenades and Dan has produced some way more better finnishes for the women we go out with!

Fact of the matter he got the runs on a recent spray, we blamed on the previous green color on some fenders, and he started back from scratch.

Are you saying you sprayed over the factory paint? After degreasing of course.

 

What say you Dan @Achto ... thoughts on doing Cindy's  candy apple 702 like this? 

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ZXT
1 hour ago, BenHolcomb said:

Not too shabby. 

20191228_101315-2241x3984.jpg

 

 

That does look extremely good! Did you pull the hubs off and replace the axle seals prior to painting? I'm sure they'll leak on the new paint if they haven't been replaced recently. 

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BenHolcomb
1 hour ago, ZXT said:

That does look extremely good! Did you pull the hubs off and replace the axle seals prior to painting? I'm sure they'll leak on the new paint if they haven't been replaced recently. 

I did replace all the leaking axle seals as well as the brake rotor seal prior to painting. The transmission pully wasn't leaking and I rounded off its set screw trying to get it off..so I that stayed in place. 

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ZXT
1 minute ago, BenHolcomb said:

I did replace all the leaking axle seals as well as the brake rotor seal prior to painting. 

Very good! It should serve you well. 

 

I'm not a body man by any means but I know the hoods of these WH's can flex quite a bit when opened.. What's the chance of the bondo separating from the hood and causing issues? I'm not sure how well the stuff bonds.. Heck, it might act as a structural reinforncer for all I know!

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