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Mr Magoo

New WH guy!

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ZXT
11 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

The one I am doing now is about 16” longer than this one and another 2” bigger in diameter. We do call them “yard cannons”!

What kind of magnifying power does something like that have?

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Mr Magoo
1 hour ago, ZXT said:

What kind of magnifying power does something like that have?

I get that question a lot, but it is not so easy to answer. The magnification is calculated according to the focal length of the telescope and the focal length of the eyepiece being used. So for this scope, about the most magnification I use with this one is around 300x. The one I am working on now would be over 440x because it has a larger diameter mirror with a longer focal length. 

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Pullstart

If you were to run a jumper from the battery + to the solenoid “s” or trigger post with it installed, does it roll the engine over?

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Mr Magoo
1 minute ago, pullstart said:

If you were to run a jumper from the battery + to the solenoid “s” or trigger post with it installed, does it roll the engine over?

Yes it does. 

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ZXT
10 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

Yes it does. 

You likely have a safety switch issue. You should have one on the foot pedal and one on the PTO lever. I know that if the lever on mine isn't pulled back as far as it possibly can, it wont crank. Both that safety switch and the foot pedal switch are easy to bypass for testing.

 

Edit: Also, it might not hurt to exercise the switches some. Engage and disengage the PTO a few times, and do the same with the foot pedal.

 

 

Edited by ZXT
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Mr Magoo

I realized that I did forget to check one important thing. I did not verify that I have power going to the ignition switch. I need to figure out where to test that. 

 

I did noticed that the safety switch on the brake does not look like the brake pedal pushes it in very well. I stuck a piece of cardboard in between both to get more pressure on it, but nothing changed. 

 

I may have a chance to get back to it tomorrow.

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ZXT
Just now, Mr Magoo said:

I realized that I did forget to check one important thing. I did not verify that I have power going to the ignition switch. I need to figure out where to test that. 

 

I did noticed that the safety switch on the brake does not look like the brake pedal pushes it in very well. I stuck a piece of cardboard in between both to get more pressure on it, but nothing changed. 

 

I may have a chance to get back to it tomorrow.

Take your DVOM and probe the wire that corresponds with the "B" post that can be seen marked on one of the ignition switch pins. 

 

I had the same issue on my C160 - turns out someone had spliced the power wire to the ignition switch with electrical tape. You never know what people might have done in the past. Check all of your connections, at the ammeter, etc. They could be corroded and cause issues.

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Mr Magoo
1 minute ago, ZXT said:

Take your DVOM and probe the wire that corresponds with the "B" post that can be seen marked on one of the ignition switch pins. 

 

I had the same issue on my C160 - turns out someone had spliced the power wire to the ignition switch with electrical tape. You never know what people might have done in the past. Check all of your connections, at the ammeter, etc. They could be corroded and cause issues.

Another thing that occurred to me just now is that when I turn the key I get no reading on the ammeter. Should it not show something when I do that? Thanks for the help guys. As you can probably tell, I'm no electrician. I know enough to probably be dangerous. 

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ZXT
Just now, Mr Magoo said:

 I'm no electrician. 

I am! :lol:

 

You might be able to see the ammeter move from the draw of the coil. Never paid much attention to it, so I'm not 100% sure. It would definitely pull down if you turned the headlights on, though!

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Mr Magoo
50 minutes ago, ZXT said:

I am! :lol:

 

You might be able to see the ammeter move from the draw of the coil. Never paid much attention to it, so I'm not 100% sure. It would definitely pull down if you turned the headlights on, though!

All of the wires to both the headlights and the tail light are both disconnected (actually torn loose is more like it). Looking at the diagram in my manual, it does not even show the safety switch for the seat. One other thing that is on the wiring diagram is that it is showing a fuse on the Clutch Pedal Interlock Switch circuit leading from the solenoid. Since this is an auto, would this be the same as the switch on the brake pedal? I have not seen another fuse holder. It could be hidden someplace I have not seen yet. 

Edited by Mr Magoo

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ebinmaine

There are those who appreciate an ammeter.

They have their use.

I won't have one on any of my equipment.

I use voltmeters instead.

 

If an ammeter shorts out it can burn the tractor and everything around it.

 

Take one of the wires off the ammeter and put it to the other post.

That'll bypass it.

 

Not sure about the difference between an auto and manual transmission on the schematic but it sounds reasonable to me to think the safety switch is the brake pedal...

 

 

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953 nut
On 12/10/2019 at 11:23 PM, Mr Magoo said:

I reinstalled the solenoid, cleaned all the contact points and still nothing when I turn the key. So now where am I at? Somehow I am not getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid it appears. So safety switches causing a problem? I found at least 3 of these, one on the brake pedal, one on the seat, and one on the PTO.

If you run a small jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid it should close and turn over the engine. This is presuming the battery, battery cables and starter are all good.

:hide:   I was on page 3 of this thread when I replied, I see @pullstart already covered this.

Edited by 953 nut
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Pullstart
10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

If you run a small jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid it should close and turn over the engine. This is presuming the battery, battery cables and starter are all good.

:hide:   I was on page 3 of this thread when I replied, I see @pullstart already covered this.

 

That just means we’re either on the same page as far as troubleshooting, or we’re both full of it!  :D

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Mr Magoo

So close, but no dinner tonight! I thought I had it licked. I got into the backside of the dash, cleaned all the terminals and plugs. Someone has been doing some touch up painting. I pulled the plug on the PTO interlock switch and the terminals on the switch and the end of the plug were all coated in red paint. The ammeter terminals were both corroded. I cleaned them and put them back on the same post bypassing the meter. I also cleaned up the rectifier which was all full of mouse nesting. 

 

After putting the dash back together I decided to give it a shot to see if there was a change. Hooked up the battery, hopped in the seat, turned the key and it cranked right over. Woo hoo!. Gave it a shot of carb cleaner, cranked it a few more times, and got a little sputter as it was trying to fire up. With this I decided to go ahead and put the fuel tank back in and see if I could get it running on some gas. Before I put the gas in the tank I tried to crank it again. It turned over for a second and then all I got was a click from the solenoid. The battery is fine. Jumped the solenoid again to make sure and the starter turned it over. Now all I'm getting is a clicking solenoid. What the heck happened? So disappointed. It was right at the end of daylight and I had to make the 50 mile trip back North to home. 

 

Back to the drawing board. 

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ebinmaine

No worries man!!!

 

You're almost there!!!!

 

Double check your double checks.

 

It'll go. 

You know this now.....

 

 

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Mr Magoo
Just now, ebinmaine said:

No worries man!!!

 

You're almost there!!!!

 

Double check your double checks.

 

It'll go. 

You know this now.....

 

 

Not sure where to look now. 

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ebinmaine

It sounds kinda redundant but do a quick look over what you just did. 

Could very likely be a bad connection on something you've already gone over. Especially what with that @#$&(). Paint on the terminals....

 

Could also be a touchy ground somewhere.

 

 

You're Right There.

 

:handgestures-thumbupright:

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ZXT
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It sounds kinda redundant but do a quick look over what you just did. 

Could very likely be a bad connection on something you've already gone over. Especially what with that @#$&(). Paint on the terminals....

 

Could also be a touchy ground somewhere.

 

 

You're Right There.

 

:handgestures-thumbupright:

:text-yeahthat:

 

Check to make sure the bolt securing the solenoid is tight, as that is its ground. Also check the connections at the battery. My C120 will do the same thing once in a while, as the tightening bolt on my car-style battery terminal vibrated out and it isn't tight on there.

 

Also jump from the battery lug on the solenoid to the small post again. That'll tell you if your issue is the solenoid, its ground, or battery cable connections. I'd bypass the ammeter as well and wiggle all other connections one at a time to isolate where the issue lies.

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Pullstart

Some people here don’t like ammeters.  Apparently they don’t go out in peace, the go out with a bang.  Bypassing it by connecting the wires together and eventually wiring up a volt meter with a power and ground might do you a favor.  

 

Remind us, why do you have to drive 50 miles each time to work on it?  No room at home?

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Mr Magoo

Yes, I did bypass the ammeter that way today. I will look to see if I can find a voltmeter that will fit in the hole that the ammeter occupies. I.D. of the hole is about 2.046".

 

I am renting the property. The tractors belong to the property owner. I am trying to get one of them running for him so we can use them to help maintain the property. I will hopefully have an opportunity to purchase one or two of the others from him. I will find out exactly what he wants to do this Saturday. I would love to have this one running by then. We shall see. 

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Mr Magoo

So to make things clear, yes, I am asking for Quid Pro Quo! :lol:

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ZXT
49 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

Yes, I did bypass the ammeter that way today. I will look to see if I can find a voltmeter that will fit in the hole that the ammeter occupies. I.D. of the hole is about 2.046".


 

I am renting the property. The tractors belong to the property owner. I am trying to get one of them running for him so we can use them to help maintain the property. I will hopefully have an opportunity to purchase one or two of the others from him. I will find out exactly what he wants to do this Saturday. I would love to have this one running by then. We shall see.

You rent a house but don't live in it?


 

You should be able to have it running by then. Your electrical issue should be able to be located with a DVOM easily, If nothing else, run a toggle switch directly to the coil and jump the solenoid to make it crank. If it has fuel, it'll run.

 


 

Hey, if it doesn't run by then, maybe you can buy it for cheaper! :lol:
 

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Mr Magoo
20 minutes ago, ZXT said:

You rent a house but don't live in it?


 

You should be able to have it running by then. Your electrical issue should be able to be located with a DVOM easily, If nothing else, run a toggle switch directly to the coil and jump the solenoid to make it crank. If it has fuel, it'll run.

 


 

Hey, if it doesn't run by then, maybe you can buy it for cheaper! :lol:
 

Well, I hope. This one should be the easiest to get going out of the 3. This one has sat for almost 10 years not running. The others have been sitting longer than that I believe. 

 

This is just a get away place for us closer to some family. 150 year old little log cabin on 127 acres of farm ground and woods. It's 60 miles from Indianapolis with its light pollution and the almost 1,000,000,000 people. A good dark site to use my telescopes. Real dark sky is not easy to come by anywhere in the state. This property has very good skies. I'm looking to buy property down there, but in the mean time, this is perfect. 

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ebinmaine

Any standard 2" gauge will fit fine.

 

They an be had online or in chain stores for less than 20 bucks all day.

 

 

We have very little to no light pollution here.

 

Folks come over to visit and marvel at the stars Moon and milky way..

 

We can't do "city".

I wouldn't last a year.

Trina much less.

 

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Herder
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Any standard 2" gauge will fit fine.

 

They an be had online or in chain stores for less than 20 bucks all day.

 

 

We have very little to no light pollution here.

 

Folks come over to visit and marvel at the stars Moon and milky way..

 

We can't do "city".

I wouldn't last a year.

Trina much less.

 

The Northern Lights?  My home town is turning into a small city, not certain how much longer I can last here either.

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