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Mr Magoo

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Herder

:text-welcomeconfetti:to:rs:Best of luck.  Cold or not :wwp: 

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Mr Magoo

I dug out one of the 120’s today. I did get a picture, but I have to find out how to get it out of my wife’s camera. I was lucky that even though the tires are shot, they have tubes and they are holding air. 

 

I ran into a problem right away though when I tried to open the screw on the hydro to let it free wheel. Someone in the past has broken off half of the slotted screw head. I tried getting on it with some Vice Grips, but could not get a great bite on it. I think I will have to remove the rear wheel to get at it better. It did not want to budge at all. I may have to get some heat on it. 

 

When I get it loose, I may try and weld a nut on it. Does anyone know where to get a replacement for this?

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Mr Magoo

Okay here is the one good shot I could get of the first 120 I'm working with. 

 

 

 

DSC00226.JPG

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Pullstart

Looks pretty much all there!  That’s a start!

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ebinmaine

With a little cleaning up that will be a nice machine

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Mr Magoo

I think it will clean up great. It looks like it has always been stored inside. I will definitely have to get some new rear tires for both for sure. I will have to start looking into that. Not sure of a good place to get them. I had to get some new ones for my Cub a couple of years ago and they were darned expensive. 

 

The other 120 is in about the same shape. The 856, not so much. It is still too buried for me to get to. 

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ebinmaine
18 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

rear tires

42 each shipped to your house on Walmart

 

Can't post links but use this to search for them

 

23X8.50-12 4PR SU05 HI-RUN

 

 

 

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rjg854

check places like Craig's list, maybe you can find decent used tires, for now,  just to get them moving

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Mr Magoo

Does anyone have a picture of what this push valve looks like out of the hydro? I would like to know exactly what it looks like before putting a torch on it. 

 

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Mr Magoo

Okay, I did find an exploded view of this finally and I see there is an o-ring in there, so now I am a bit leery of putting heat on it. Any suggestions?

 

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Herder
20 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

Okay, I did find an exploded view of this finally and I see there is an o-ring in there, so now I am a bit leery of putting heat on it. Any suggestions?

 

I would rethink the heat.  It's a 50/50 on rather or not the push valve will move.  I've had many hydro's over the years and a lot of the time the valve is stuck.  It's a cast housing and steel valve they do stick and can be difficult to move.  Penetrating oil a pair of vice grips and patience.  Rock the valve back and forth it may free up.  Or a set of wheel dollies under the rear tires.

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Mr Magoo
16 minutes ago, Herder said:

I would rethink the heat.  It's a 50/50 on rather or not the push valve will move.  I've had many hydro's over the years and a lot of the time the valve is stuck.  It's a cast housing and steel valve they do stick and can be difficult to move.  Penetrating oil a pair of vice grips and patience.  Rock the valve back and forth it may free up.  Or a set of wheel dollies under the rear tires.

I'm digging the wheel dollies idea!

 

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tom2p
5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

42 each shipped to your house on Walmart

 

Can't post links but use this to search for them

 

23X8.50-12 4PR SU05 HI-RUN

 

 

 


and if you need front tires check Walmart also 

 

16X6.50-8 4PR HI-RUN

 

4 ply front tires for $20 each shipped to your house 

 

and they are shipped in good form/shape - not smashed or squished (so the mounting is not more of a challenge - especially inflation before bead is seated)

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tom2p
5 hours ago, Mr Magoo said:

I think it will clean up great. It looks like it has always been stored inside. 


looks like a keeper to me 

 

magoo you done good !

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Mr Magoo

Another day, another part to order. I pulled the fuel lines and tank out today. Had to pull up short though as the rubber bushing in the tank is leaking like all get out. Ordered a new one from iSaveTractors as well as the shut off valve.

 

Whilst piddling around I decided to check the hydro dipstick level. Oh boy, another issue popped up. The rubber on the dipstick cap is falling apart. I'm concerned that there may be pieces of it down in the reservoir. That can't be good. What to do about that? If there is some in there, would draining it make them come out? Is there a source out there for a replacement dipstick or the rubber seal? 

 

Like  Roseanne Roseannadanna use to say, "It just goes to show you, it's always something — if it ain't one thing, it's another."

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Mr Magoo

So, something just popped into my little monkey brain and I just realized that on this engine the fuel line is running directly from the tank to the carb. I was working from the tank to the carb and really didn't get messing around up there except for to undo the hold down clamps. Not sure what the heck is going on there. I assume the re must be a fuel pump there. Maybe it went bad and they just bypassed it. Will this even work as a gravity feed system?

 

I won't get at it again until maybe tomorrow or Wed. Bad part about working on these is that they are an hour away so I can't just pop over and look at it. 

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Pullstart

On the C-120, gravity might work until about 1/2 tank.  

 

I have had had luck with an electric pump that costs $9.84 on Amazon... it seems to be cheaper than a quality rebuild on a mechanical pump and just as effective.  

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Mr Magoo

I have done some reading on the fuel pumps. Seems like there are basically 3 options, rebuild the original, an electric, or one of the plastic mechanical ones. 

 

I found the rebuild kit at Then and now and I don't mind paying the price if it works well. The other rebuild kits on eBay, Amazon, or eBay are all coming from the far East and get mixed reviews. 

 

I have not researched the electric ones much at all. I assume you would need to find a mounting location and blank off the original opening or plug the holes on the OEM one. 

 

The plastic replacement mechanical ones seem to be a crap shoot. They range in price from $9.99 eBay to $209.77. The thing is that they all look like exactly the same part from the same factory in China. Again, the reviews on these seem to be all over the place. 

 

I will need to check and see if they both even have the original pumps. I'm thinking that the one I'm working does not. 

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ebinmaine
50 minutes ago, Mr Magoo said:

And then there is this option, wow this dude is a trip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqZGWRJ66b4

Dude is a trip. Yeah that's one way to put it. Sharp as a tack and bright as the sun but man is he hard to watch sometimes.

 

 

 

If you have the option to do so, rebuild the original mechanical metal pump. If not, several of us not including myself yet, have installed electric pumps and had good success with them.

 

 

Your c series will run fine without a fuel pump until you are at a point where the output of the tank is below the input of the carburetor for more than a few seconds.

I could never do that here because we are on the side of a mountain.

 

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Pullstart

Speaking of which, lookie what came in the mail today!

 

 

50CCCE2A-96B7-4D07-B0F9-24313DE7115F.jpeg

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pfrederi
12 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Speaking of which, lookie what came in the mail today!

 

 

50CCCE2A-96B7-4D07-B0F9-24313DE7115F.jpeg

 

 

Looks just like the one I had on myC141 with front mount deck that died on the far side of the pasture (only a very few hours on it less than 10).. Better luck with yours!!!

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Pullstart

@pfrederi I’ve had good luck so far with it on the wood splitter, we’ll see how it works with tractors too :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Mr Magoo

I looked at that one and it does not exactly get great reviews. Good luck.

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WHX??
12 hours ago, Mr Magoo said:

I looked at that one and it does not exactly get great reviews. Good luck.

I just put that one on a z turn Briggs I repoed for a guy..... worked great. See what happens if he complains but for what I charged him to do the repower just go get another. 

Edited by WHX24
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