Need advice-Carburetor leaking into my crankcase

[Macwrench 133]

53 minutes ago, ZXT said:

This is something that I wonder as well. Most cheapo electric fuel pumps that people buy have the potential to put out more PSI than the float can handle.. Apparently nobody has had issues with this or they've elected not to tell anyone about it. Even on a car, most people recommend that you run a regulator with a low pressure electric fuel pump. 

 

The vacuum fuel pumps are cheap, die once a decade and are extremely simple and reliable. They've been being used for 40+ years now.. I feel that if they were inadequate, manufacturers would've switched to electric fuel pumps by now. 

 

New guy here, but I agree.  I think electric fuel pumps can be dangerous too.  When your engine quits, your vacuum pump quits, but roll over with an electric pump and you could have 6-10 psi spraying out a broken line or something.  All modern cars have safety switches, as do EFI motorcycles.  No thanks!  Outboards have been using vacuum pumps for decades for 5 - 200+ HP engines with great success. 

[Bill D 1,599]

You can buy a Briggs vacuum pump for about twenty bucks.  I had to replace the 34 years old vacuum pump and hoses on my neighbor's GT1142.  Pump worked great.  Make an adapter plate with a fitting in it to replace the mechanical fuel pump.  Find a place to mount the pump, change the oil twice and go.  There are videos on YouTube of a three D printed adapter and pump mount.  Good luck.  Bill.

[DotheDoo 15]

LOL, Well, I worked on it last night. First thing I noticed was it was very wet from the fuel pump base going down the block. Above the fuel pump, dry. I drained the engine block and the oil was completely diluted with gas. I had a tad over 3 qtrs of fluid come out and the block only takes 2.25 Qtrs. Removed the fuel pump but of course being plastic, I damaged the outlet connection because after reinstalling it it was blowing gas all over the place. So, I picked up a Kohler Fuel pump part# 47 559 11-S. Its blows my mind the price range for this plastic pump. I am seeing $9.95 on Ebay with all gaskets to $225.00 on MTD web site. Kohlers is $174 and the pump is no different than the $27.00 one I bought off E Bay. But then, I question fit and finish plus the o-rings used are different in color etc. 

 

BTW, with the oil drain plug out, I did run a little over a qtr of oil thru the block to try to get more gas out before adding new oil. I'll run the new oil for 10 hours or less and change the oil again. I have not installed the new in-line fuel shut of valve but I think I will to be safe. Last thing I ever want to do is blow up this engine block.

 

Thank you Wildman C120 for the info on the carb. I did a screen shot and will print and save that in my Toro folder/file.

[Pullstart 59,650]

I don’t have an issue with mechanical pumps, I have plenty that work great.  The only ones I’ve installed myself are on my splitter and my fuel injected Subaru powered buggy.  

 

Hopefully the new mechanical pump works great for you!

[Macwrench 133]

4 hours ago, DotheDoo said:

BTW, with the oil drain plug out, I did run a little over a qtr of oil thru the block to try to get more gas out before adding new oil. I'll run the new oil for 10 hours or less and change the oil again. I have not installed the new in-line fuel shut of valve but I think I will to be safe. Last thing I ever want to do is blow up this engine block.

 

Just FYI, I don't think the gas hurts the crankcase as much as you think.  Older cold weather aircraft (like in Alaska) use oil dilution systems to dilute the cold oil with 100LL fuel so they can be started.  Once the engine warms up a bit, the gas will evaporate off quickly and go out the vent.  The only danger is if there is any combustion that makes it past the rings, could spark a BOOM.  (saw an SBC blow up in a Monte Carlo )

 

Otherwise, it will evaporate out.