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ebinmaine

The "Colossus" project

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19richie66

:text-yeahthat: You beat me to it. What are those wheels from Eric? It looks as if they are turned around the way they are mounted in the picture you posted. If thats the case, is the bevel for the lugnuts up against the axle flange or is it a reversable wheel? I would hate to have all that leverage on the axles/wheels and the wheels themselves crack around the lug holes.

Edited by 19richie66
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R. L. Addison

I would think the axle would snap before bending, and that would be a very good possibility in the right conditions. Don't remember the h.p. on this setup, but I would want a safety factor built in with about a 12 h.p. maximum. It would be very easy to tie it to something and overload it without thinking about it. I understand the stability part, would be more concerned about torque and long term fatigue. Hope I'm wrong.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

:text-yeahthat: You beat me to it. What are those wheels from Eric? It looks as if they are turned around the way they are mounted in the picture you posted. If thats the case, is the bevel for the lugnuts up against the axle flange or is it a reversable wheel? I would hate to have all that leverage on the axles/wheels and the wheels themselves crack around the lug holes.

@953 nut

I would agree with what's stated above about how the axle would likely snap before bending. I did some research when Richie offered me these axles..

I'm no metallurgist or engineer but the information I was finding led me to believe that even a 1 inch axle would be strong enough.

The difference between 1 and 1 1/8 is pretty substantial.

Another reason I went with the larger axle is so that I could get a larger wheel bearing. There's another one, possibly two, rollers taking tension on a larger axle than there is on the smaller axle.

 

Richie, good eye on those wheels. Yes they are backwards right now. They are not reversible and they will be flipped when mounted.

I had them on there that way to take some measurements.

 

 

 

39 minutes ago, R. L. Addison said:

I would think the axle would snap before bending, and that would be a very good possibility in the right conditions. Don't remember the h.p. on this setup, but I would want a safety factor built in with about a 12 h.p. maximum. It would be very easy to tie it to something and overload it without thinking about it. I understand the stability part, would be more concerned about torque and long term fatigue. Hope I'm wrong.

 

 

I'm not by a long shot questioning your answer. I love the input from all you folks and I want you to keep it coming.

 

I'm curious to know where you come up with a 12 horsepower maximum. These particular axles came from a 14 horsepower machine and the transmission was used all the way up to 20 horsepower machines to the best of my knowledge.

 

Please do correct me if I'm wrong and tell me your methodology. I love the learning process here too. Not just the building.

 

The engine I'm using is rated at 23 horsepower at 3600 RPM. I'll be keeping the governor low and I normally only run around half throttle which should be between 13 and 16 horse.

 

 

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19richie66

Those transaxles are used in pullers and other setups where they run way over 12 hp through them. Yes they can break. If you are just pulling a small trailer, the tongue weight would probably not affect the transmission especially if you used a 2” receiver hitch that tied into the complete transmission unlike a hitch that just used the pivot pin. I think you would be ok there. The width issue is questionable. The D series uses axles 2” longer than the gt14 axles you have there. I believe the same bearings but not sure of the transmission axle tube width.

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pfrederi

Eric;  i guess you do not have the biggest K series on Red Square any more  :P  Cubic inch envy???

 

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

gt14 axles you have there. I believe the same bearings but not sure of the transmission axle tube width

it was hard to tell from the wear pattern on the axles you sent because they were in really good condition but it looks as though gt14 transmission may be wider than an 8-speed.

 

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Cubic inch envy???

I'm man enough to admit that I have CIE.

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pfrederi

Learned  something new today.  I never realized until today that the transaxle in hydros (Sunstrand ones anyway, like GT14s D series and chargers) are wider than 8 speeds..  End of axle housing to end is 18-1/2" for the hydros 16-1/2 inches for 8 speeds.  That is a reason why you GT-14 axles stick so far out of your 8 speed tranny.

 

That is a lot of leverage.  I think 953 nut has a good idea GT-14 or d series hubs they are much longer.  Also what kind of needle bearings were in your transmission?? Over the years I have seen WH used two different styles some full complement some not.  I asked  here a long time ago what difference it meant strength wise no one answered but I have to believe full compliment are better at stress management.

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ebinmaine
12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Learned  something new today.  I never realized until today that the transaxle in hydros (Sunstrand ones anyway, like GT14s D series and chargers) are wider than 8 speeds..  End of axle housing to end is 18-1/2" for the hydros 16-1/2 inches for 8 speeds.  That is a reason why you GT-14 axles stick so far out of your 8 speed tranny.

 

That is a lot of leverage.  I think 953 nut has a good idea GT-14 or d series hubs they are much longer.  Also what kind of needle bearings were in your transmission?? Over the years I have seen WH used two different styles some full complement some not.  I asked  here a long time ago what difference it meant strength wise no one answered but I have to believe full compliment are better at stress management.

when you say full complement I'm going to assume that you mean the needle length is literally from one side of the bearing to the other side of the bearing. So like if it's a 1" wide bearing, minus end curl to keep the needles in place... Like a 7/8 inch long needle?

 

That's the only kind I've ever seen.

 

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pfrederi
9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

when you say full complement I'm going to assume that you mean the needle length is literally from one side of the bearing to the other side of the bearing. So like if it's a 1" wide bearing, minus end curl to keep the needles in place... Like a 7/8 inch long needle?

 

That's the only kind I've ever seen.

 

Full complement has no spacers.  Picture shows both types WH used....

Not sure when they changed or why....

IMG_0452 Bearing.jpg

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ebinmaine

Oh yeah ok....

 

 

The two in this one are definitely full.

 

I don't remember seeing the other type in a horse..

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ebinmaine

Spent some time making up the reinforcement pieces for the front axle pin.

 

Here's some pics.

 

 

Clamped a piece of scrap 3/8" plate to a frame for sizing.

IMG_20200401_183405464.jpg.bfb12c53255506aecdaa15e9e5b7e7f1.jpg

 

 

@wallfish I put a band saw to use again.

IMG_20200401_185258654.jpg.6f47280106cf769a89eb0658dc5a75b2.jpg

 

IMG_20200401_185329862.jpg.8d96bc73f7411a1d0a2fe1d74cc91e1a.jpg

 

 

Drilled the holes and ground all the edges 

IMG_20200401_194600690.jpg.2b490b63355fb354854fe3e6bd5c43d8.jpg

 

 

The cutting oil I use when drilling. This is a can my grandfather had about 3 weeks longer than dirt ago.

IMG_20200401_193442936.jpg.642df7c0c996d0f8b15cb91802881e7d.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Bonus dog pic!!!!

 

IMG_20200331_144457_01.jpg.af49baa161a4c7cdf70b0cf961348584.jpg

 

 

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Pullstart

What’s up Mirror!  Good job on the far work EB!  Are you planning on welding those in?

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wallfish
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@wallfish I put a band saw to use again.

Glad to see it's getting used Eric. Well worth the price! And it sure beats using a hacksaw or sawzall which allows more motivation to actually do stuff you normally wouldn't do or want to do with those other tools.

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Are you planning on welding those in?

Yessir

 

Got me a 25 lb of 7014 in the mail the other day.

 

More practice this weekend!

 

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Pullstart
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Yessir

 

Got me a 25 lb of 7014 in the mail the other day.

 

More practice this weekend!

 

 

Post up some practice beads :handgestures-thumbupright:

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Glad to see it's getting used Eric. Well worth the price! And it sure beats using a hacksaw or sawzall which allows more motivation to actually do stuff you normally wouldn't do or want to do with those other tools.

Agreed.

It's a tad slow but it's precise.

Nice to have it at my disposal for things like this.

 

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, pullstart said:

 

Post up some practice beads :handgestures-thumbupright:

Yeah... Will do.

 

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ebinmaine

I spent a little while tonight removing some stub axles from an old trailer project that I'm not going to use at this time.

These stub axles are going to be end-drilled and installed on the spindles so I can use the regular 5 x 4.5 wheels on the front.

I have a set of 6 / 12 Carlisle super lug that are basically NOS but sat outside. There's one spot that has a bit of weather checking. Nothing serious.

They were sitting on the back of one of the rigs we brought home from the auction.

I don't remember how to date code tires but there is a 09 at 1 indentation.

I assume that means they were manufactured in 2009.

IMG_20200406_193014758.jpg.a6f24fa4f8b480a0aab05567ca91f5b5.jpg

 

 

 

I took some measurements and I would like to cut 2 inches off of each stub axle and then drill them to put the Wheelhorse spindles into them.

 

IMG_20200406_192934380.jpg.195acd4d83a6076c2c6513716dba293f.jpg

 

 

 

I do have a couple questions.

 

Is there a fairly easy way to find the center on the end of the stub shaft so I know where to begin drilling?

 

IMG_20200406_192956666.jpg.dc338c78d1f72852d33ecbd3924acb8c.jpg

 

 

 

Also, how much of the horse spindle should be stuck into the end of the stub shaft? I'll have to cut it some because I'm only going to have about 2.5" of stub shaft after I trim it to get the right tractor width.

 

 

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formariz
On 4/1/2020 at 9:02 PM, ebinmaine said:

Agreed.

It's a tad slow but it's precise.

Nice to have it at my disposal for things like this.

 

My favorite stationary machine. If I was given the choice of only having one for the rest of my life it would be the band saw.

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Pullstart

Well, a lathe would be best.  Without that, you could spin the cut end on a grinder to a point.  Set both pieces inside a piece of angle iron and see what happens when you give them a CLANK together?

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Well, a lathe would be best.  Without that, you could spin the cut end on a grinder to a point.  Set both pieces inside a piece of angle iron and see what happens when you give them a CLANK together?

part of my problem is that I have no way to spin something that big while I have it in a grinder so that I could make a precision point.

 

The chuck on my drill press is only good for about 1/2", maybe 5/8? These spindles are I think 1" on the small end.

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Pullstart

Do you have a fence on a bench grinder with a 45 in it?  Maybe if you spin it the best you can, you’ll be able to see the point once it gets to that point.

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wallfish

How about making the WH spindle bigger to fit the hub using DOM tube instead? Drill and tap the end for a bolt and washer.

Or use this EASY method to find the center

 

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8ntruck

Got a square?  Attach a straight edge through the corner of the square at 45 degrees.  Place against the end of the axle, mark a line, rotate the axle 90 degrees to mark the cross point of the center.  Rotate the axle another 45 degrees and scribe another line to check confirm the center.  If it crosses at the same point,you have the center.  If it makes a triangle with the other two lines, the center of the axle will be in the center of that triangle.

 

Next time you are at a hardware store, look for a center finder. It typically is an accessory for an adjustable square that is a 90 degree angle set at 45 degrees to the clamp for the steel rule part of the adjustable square.

 

Good luck.

 

I still need to obtain one of these.

 

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Lee1977
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I spent a little while tonight removing some stub axles from an old trailer project that I'm not going to use at this time.

These stub axles are going to be end-drilled and installed on the spindles so I can use the regular 5 x 4.5 wheels on the front.

I have a set of 6 / 12 Carlisle super lug that are basically NOS but sat outside. There's one spot that has a bit of weather checking. Nothing serious.

They were sitting on the back of one of the rigs we brought home from the auction.

I don't remember how to date code tires but there is a 09 at 1 indentation.

I assume that means they were manufactured in 2009.

IMG_20200406_193014758.jpg.a6f24fa4f8b480a0aab05567ca91f5b5.jpg

 

 

 

I took some measurements and I would like to cut 2 inches off of each stub axle and then drill them to put the Wheelhorse spindles into them.

 

IMG_20200406_192934380.jpg.195acd4d83a6076c2c6513716dba293f.jpg

 

 

 

I do have a couple questions.

 

Is there a fairly easy way to find the center on the end of the stub shaft so I know where to begin drilling?

 

IMG_20200406_192956666.jpg.dc338c78d1f72852d33ecbd3924acb8c.jpg

 

 

 

Also, how much of the horse spindle should be stuck into the end of the stub shaft? I'll have to cut it some because I'm only going to have about 2.5" of stub shaft after I trim it to get the right tractor width.

 

 

If you are using that full lenght spindle it's going to be hard to steer with the wheel that far from the axle.

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