The Tuul Crib 7,332 #1 Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) I know there have been some threads here about the best engine oil to use in these tractors . I'm already sold on the Rotella 30 weight oil. So that being said there is a certain 30 weight Rotella to use. There is a letter in the mixture which is specific To use for the tapets on the valves of these Kohler engines . One was a T. Any thoughts? Edited August 23, 2019 by The Tool Crib Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,067 #2 Posted August 23, 2019 USING ROTELLA T 1 STRAIGHT 30 WT , with low ash composition is what i use , its the low ash feature that cleans up and prevents the milky crap created by the wrong oils . i have talked about hot oil flushes on these engines , to help flush out the wrong oil deposits that turn into a milky residue, typically a couple of lower hour , but hot oil flushes , with a rotella refill cleans up these engines quickly, also helping the rings seal better. remember this engine design is decades old , and newer oils do not have the coverage that a diesel low ash oil has . since regularly using rotella , my oil stays clean longer and really cleaned up my internals in the kohler. you can obviously use what oil you want , but if your dip stick tube is slimy or milky mixture in it , you are using the wrong oil. just my own opinion , but it works for me, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,394 #3 Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) I personally like non-detergent oils. Kohler K series don't have a filter to catch all of the debris that a detergent oil would stir up, and this debris could work its way into the rod journal.. Not something I particularly want to happen. If you were to run detergent oil in one that's fresh rebuilt, that would be one thing. Using it on an engine that likely has had non detergent oil ran in it for the last 50 years just spells trouble in my mind. Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam. I could be completely off base here, but that's my thought. Edited August 23, 2019 by ZXT 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #4 Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) At Tractor Supply. Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam. Edited August 24, 2019 by 953 nut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #5 Posted August 24, 2019 14 minutes ago, ZXT said: Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,133 #6 Posted August 24, 2019 Oil. Change it. Done. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,164 #7 Posted August 24, 2019 everything gets penzoil 10-30 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,394 #8 Posted August 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, jabelman said: everything gets penzoil 10-30 Your poor engine.. Lol. To all of my car guy friends, I've always said I wouldn't run Pennzoil in a lawnmower.. and I wouldn't! 4 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,432 #9 Posted August 24, 2019 29 minutes ago, ZXT said: I personally like non-detergent oils. Kohler K series don't have a filter to catch all of the debris that a detergent oil would stir up, and this debris could work its way into the rod journal.. Not something I particularly want to happen. If you were to run detergent oil in one that's fresh rebuilt, that would be one thing. Using it on an engine that likely has had non detergent oil ran in it for the last 50 years just spells trouble in my mind. Diesel oil generally has higher zinc content than gas engine oil, and that is definitely better for the tappets and cam. I could be completely off base here, but that's my thought. Diesel oil also has a much higher detergent content than gas oil. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 882 #10 Posted August 24, 2019 I have some old Kohler manuals probably from the 70's and the oil recommendation is for 30wt high quality detergent oil. heard a rep from one of the engine manufacturers tell us at an update school can use the 10w30 but expect more oil consumption. Now granted that was a good while back. I do not think the K series engines were ever machined to the exacting tolerances the modern stuff is. Can one use it, sure but for me I won't in summer weather. We all do what we think is right for our own engines. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,772 #11 Posted August 24, 2019 You asked for it Cribs so I'll be the smart @$$ .... Whatever keeps the damn thing from blowing up! 1 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darb1964 1,014 #12 Posted August 24, 2019 Today's oils are so good if you keep it full and clean I think your in good shape. I do like the heavy weight in hot weather and lighter in the winter. Keep it clean!! 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,133 #13 Posted August 24, 2019 7 hours ago, Darb1964 said: Today's oils are so good if you keep it full and clean I think your in good shape Darb' nailed it as far as I'm concerned for an older sling type non pressured engine. Change it when you're supposed to, or even earlier, and these old Kohler beasts will give you many hours trouble free. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,277 #14 Posted August 24, 2019 Much more important than brand. I've used Valvoline in all my engines for 40+ years with outstanding results so I'll stick with it. All my K-Series get 30w year around. As @Howie mentioned, use detergent. It's what Kohler recommends and yes, 10w30 will likely cause more oil consumption. It definitely did on a 341 I had but going back to 30w stopped it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #15 Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) Edited August 24, 2019 by AMC RULES 5 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 2,898 #16 Posted August 24, 2019 27 minutes ago, AMC RULES said: Yea, that's the one , nuff said. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 2,898 #17 Posted August 24, 2019 Actually, down here I use Rotella 40w in all my small flathead engines, since 95% of the time I use them the temp outside is between 80 and a 100 degrees. Both my old flathead generators (Briggs, Tecumseh) have many hours on them (hurricanes) and still run fine, no smoke. The Briggs has over 5 weeks of almost continuous running (23hr a day) on it, with an oil change every other day. I'm sure I could go 3 days easy. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,777 #18 Posted August 24, 2019 You could just ignore oil changes like the Briggs & Stratton nonsense. Since the latest API specification SN hit us, these oils have reduced anti-wear additives to protect the emissions systems. This is not a good thing for us. Using diesel oil will give you the anti-wear, but a different set of additives than is ideal for gas engines. I looked around for the best non-SN oil and came up with the Kohler oil available in several weights, yes it cost more. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,411 #19 Posted August 24, 2019 I switched from regular 10w30 to rotella for my 312-8. It’s often run in the winter time for snow blowing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,217 #20 Posted August 25, 2019 Many years ago I built an old Go Kart with a 3 HP wore out Briggs that I got cheap for a construction company. That is when I quit using Pennzoil couldn't keep it in there. It was check the gas and fill it up with oil. Switch to Havoline and it was a lot better. I still use Havoline in my Briggs Vanguard and my Toyota Truck. I had been using Traveller 30 in the 12 Hp Kohler but was out. Was at Walmart and Rotella 30 was the only 30 weight they had on the shelf. I bought 2 gallons and changed both the Kohler and Onan don't know what was in the Onan when I got in back in March It had just been changed as it was clean. THe onan had used ashall amount of what was in there as I had added a little. I have ues it about the same amount with the 30 Rotella and it has stayed full. I haven't had to add any to the 12 Kohler either since the change. I used the last of the Traveller in the 10 HP Briggs Snapper RER. I have a walk behind mower, two tillers, generator, and homemade Shortdog that will get Rotella 30 with the next oil change. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #21 Posted August 25, 2019 On 8/23/2019 at 9:25 PM, Howie said: We all do what we think is right for our own engines. This is gospel ^ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ike 75 #22 Posted September 11, 2019 Been using Kawasaki 30 sae with zinc. https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-99969-6281-K-Tech-4-Cycle-Engine/dp/B00HVTF7YM/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjcneheLH5AIVCcDICh1a5AB_EAAYASAAEgI8IfD_BwE&hvadid=190538011813&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9004027&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=13097730736541233270&hvtargid=kwd-309178100376&keywords=kawasaki+oil+sae+30&qid=1568170425&s=gateway&sr=8-3 I have been putting my Onans and Kohler magnums. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bds1984 1,382 #23 Posted September 11, 2019 15W40 Wolf's head in my K341 and 10W30 in my M18. Zero consumption. Despite anyones superstitions or anecdotes, virtually any modern API rated straight 30wt or 15W40 that is changed at an appropriate interval is fine and they're be no worse for wear for an engine that is within tolerances. Before people get all up in arms, I am enough of an oil nerd that I have sent out oil samples to Blackstone labs for analysis just to see what wear number were on my OPE and cars (new and 150K+ miles) and wait for it, the best numbers I've experienced were from Pennzoil/Shell synthetics! And before you try to hammer me on sludge issues from the 60s-80s, 1) how often have these sludged up cars had their PCV valves and oil changed? and 2) I did pull the valve covers off and they were SPOTLESS. I wouldn't get too carried away with the zinc level, too much is corrosive and not as critical in a 1960s Kohler compared to a 1966 427 side oiler Ford that is running insane valve spring pressures! Years ago I would run straight 40wt or 50wt in the summer in a engine that would burn more oil than gasoline; I never once blamed the oil because I knew the engine was worn. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #24 Posted September 11, 2019 Time to check the oil so thanks! for the reminder. Nothing like an oil thread to bring out the posts. For me, the motorcycles always got Delvac 15/40 diesel. The trans gears and wet clutch loved it. Suzuki fans swore by it. Straight 50 weight in the old bored and stroked beetle. Motorcraft only for the SHO (purists). Stay away from Pennsy oils because of high wax content. Yadda Yadda. As for me, straight 30W in the Ks and Delvac in the bikes. The Ford gets full synthetic. For Americans, whatever floats your boat, maybe literally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 613 #25 Posted September 11, 2019 On 8/24/2019 at 8:13 AM, AMC RULES said: Yep - started using that about 5 years ago ... O also like the Kendall straight 30 but I need to take a trip to the dealer to get it . 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites