WHX?? 46,723 #26 Posted August 21, 2019 Lookin more like a 753 fellas. Drain that transmission and refill with kerosene or diesel. Refill through the shift hole and get plenty in. Tip the front up to get all water out you can when draining. Like to tell you run it with the cleaner (diesel) in but that's probably not possible at this stage. No harm if it sets with cleaner in it. Main thing is to get the water out and some kind of petroleum product in. Things check out down the road here you may not have to split the tranny. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,537 #27 Posted August 21, 2019 @Charley No need to be afraid of splitting the tranny if need be, @stevasaurus has some great video's on rebuilding a transmission. Here is a link. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw If you should need any parts for your tranny @wheelhorseman has almost any thing that you may need. Here is a link for his on line store.https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #28 Posted August 21, 2019 This is the specific type of set screw you need to retain, and adjust tension on your shifter... have one of these "Dog Point" set screws Charley? 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #29 Posted August 21, 2019 Allen head, screws into that collar in top of your trans... adjust the tension to allow the shifter to pivot through all four gates. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,723 #30 Posted August 21, 2019 (edited) 'Nother thought her Charley get the rear end in the air and see if the rear axles "wiggle" in the outboard axle housing or if the axle seals are leaking profusely. If they do you will be splitting the tranny. Like Dan says no big deal we can walk you thru it. Good pics from Craig above... try those and see if you can get it to go thru gears. Edited August 21, 2019 by WHX24 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #31 Posted August 21, 2019 Water does drain profusely out of the end of the axle, Im assuming axle seals? I take it ill be splitting the tranny to replace them. I would feel better splitting it and knowing there isnt anything foriegn like a dog set screw in there. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #32 Posted August 21, 2019 20 minutes ago, WHX24 said: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,723 #33 Posted August 21, 2019 Wise thinking Charley... let us know you need help. As mentioned above Lowell has complete transmission kits or will sell just the stuff you need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,537 #34 Posted August 21, 2019 12 minutes ago, Charley said: I would feel better splitting it and knowing there isnt anything foriegn like a dog set screw in there. Nothing in side but bearings & gears, oh! & some 1/4" de tent balls & a spring. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #35 Posted August 21, 2019 Do i have a 3 speed #5025 tranny? I know its a 3 speed but as fas as the video goes its for a 5025. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,723 #36 Posted August 21, 2019 Yes same thing ... most three speeds in that vintage are pretty much alike. Let us know when you get into it. We can get @stevasaurus to chime in... he forgot more than what most of us know about transmissions. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #37 Posted August 21, 2019 Ill be sure to you guys involved... this has been a huge help. You guys are awesome 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,406 #38 Posted August 21, 2019 1 hour ago, WHX24 said: Lookin more like a 753 fellas. I don't know Jim.... i think I'd put my duckets on a 653... if it was a 753 i believe the Kohler would still be in it! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #39 Posted August 21, 2019 We took an 8 horse off it but that doesn't mean it was born with it, also somebody painted over the sticker on the belt guard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 26,537 #40 Posted August 21, 2019 6 hours ago, Charley said: , also somebody painted over the sticker on the belt guard Try taking a knife & lightly scratching the paint off of the sticker. Most times people do not scuff the sticker before painting and the paint will scratch off fairly easy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,723 #41 Posted August 21, 2019 Dan recently got a tractor that was advertised as a 854 but scraping paint revealed it to be a 753. 10 hours ago, Charley said: We took an 8 horse off it but that doesn't mean it was born with it True.. any chance you have that motor with the nameplate? Put up a pic of the plate if you do. That might help nail things down. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,229 #42 Posted August 21, 2019 Don't use a knife to scrape that belt guard sticker...use acetone with a rag. dampen cloth and rub gently. The acetone will soften the paint and rub off...it will not ruin the sticker. Use this manual...Section II to open and get into your #5025 transmission. Use my videos in conjunction with the manual. While this is not your transmission, it is close enough to help walk you through the process. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #43 Posted August 21, 2019 Awesome, Id like to save the sticker. This is great information. This rebuold should go pretty smooth, Thank You 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #44 Posted August 21, 2019 Is there a complete parts list of the seals and bearings I need to buy? Or maybe a complete rebuild kit? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #45 Posted August 21, 2019 I see the website but theres an awful lot to choose from. I need to make sure i order the correct kit! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,723 #46 Posted August 21, 2019 If you are thinking about getting them from here https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/index.html you would need either Kit # 1 or Kit # 2. Kit # 2 is the same as #1 except it includes a pair of 1533 bearings which you may or may not need. You will need to open the transmission up first to determine that. If in doubt about what to order its best you call Lowell, the proprietor of that site, and he will get you on the right path. His phone number is on his contact us page. If you decide to source your own bearing & seals here is a crib sheet that Steve put together listing the required seals and bearings. UNI DRIVE TRANS 2.pdf 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #47 Posted August 21, 2019 Is there something special to getting this pin out. I don't see a roll pin it moves about 1/16th back and forth but wont drive out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,229 #48 Posted August 21, 2019 This is one of the things that make opening the trans hard. If it moves at all, you can heat, and soak (like PB blaster, candle wax, etc) and keep working it. File the ends so there are no burrs...an air hammer with a punch is a good option. I have also used a Sawsall to cut the 1/2" soft steel in between the hitch and the trans to get to where you can pound it out. You can buy the 1/2" steel at Ace or Tractor Supply to make a new pin. Patience and a case of beer go a long way. There is a groove on each end of the pin that should hold a 1/2" "C" clip to hold the pin in place. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,611 #49 Posted August 21, 2019 1 hour ago, stevasaurus said: cut the 1/2" soft steel in between the hitch and the trans to get to where you can pound it out. You can buy the 1/2" steel at Ace or Tractor Supply to make a new pin. Steve, I think you will find that they are 3/4". Lowell sells the pins and they are nice. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hitches-liftkits.html#!/Toro-Wheel-Horse-Hitch-Pin/p/84954775/category=23548047 I have cut the pins on both sides of the transmission and then drilled them with progressively larger drill bits until they are weakened to the point that they will give up. The heat produced by the drill bit may help. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charley 40 #50 Posted August 22, 2019 I got her out, took a little heat, I'll put a new one in this one has been beat up 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
