657 HH60 ignition bench test help please?

[ebinmaine 63,113]

I'm beginning to re-approach getting the Tecumseh HH60 that used to be on Trina's 657 running again.

It was an engine that ran well when we picked up the tractor and when we took it apart. After cleaning we had no spark.

 

 

I've watched a video or two. I've read a fair amount on this site. I found a bench test procedure which I'll include below.

In that bench test procedure there is a blue wire mentioned. I have no colored wires under the flywheel.

They are all black except for one which is the original woven cloth cover. 

 

Could somebody please translate the testing procedure below so that I understand which black wire I should be connecting or disconnecting and when?

 

 

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,495]

The primary wire going from the points to the coil just happens to be blue on this coil. That is the wire that is grounded to the chassis to shut it off. When not grounded the coil should work.

Disconnect the condenser. You can either remove the wire from the points or remove and isolate the condenser from it's mounting point.

With the points open use an ohm meter to see which wire is common to the points wire. That is the ignition wire. One ohm meter lead on the points terminal and the other checking the loose wire ends.

 

Garry

[ebinmaine 63,113]

12 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

The primary wire going from the points to the coil just happens to be blue on this coil. That is the wire that is grounded to the chassis to shut it off. When not grounded the coil should work.

Disconnect the condenser. You can either remove the wire from the points or remove and isolate the condenser from it's mounting point.

With the points open use an ohm meter to see which wire is common to the points wire. That is the ignition wire. One ohm meter lead on the points terminal and the other checking the loose wire ends.

 

Garry

Okay thank you. I'll try that later today.

 

One thing that I was able to figure out last night is that the points are very dirty. I was getting inconsistent continuity readings across them.

Once I get that figured out I can move on to testing the coil.

 

Keeping in mind I am very much in a learning curve with small engines in general and this is the first magneto I've messed with....

With the condenser and coil and outside ground lead all still connected I am getting continuity across the points Whether Open Or Closed. Is that okay? Or is something shorting out that I need to be looking for?

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,495]

6 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

With the condenser and coil and outside ground lead all still connected I am getting continuity across the points Whether Open Or Closed. Is that okay? Or is something shorting out that I need to be looking for?

Using the blue wire as an example - it goes from the points into the coil with a million wraps around an iron core and then to ground.

You will have continuity from the ignition wire to ground because that blue coil wire ends up grounded after it goes through the coil. A real good ohm meter will show 1 or 2 ohms resistance but we can't expect to see that with the equipment we use.

This is why I said to just check the wire continuity by disconnecting the condenser and probing the ends of the loose wires to identify the ignition wire.

 

Garry

[ebinmaine 63,113]

48 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

continuity

Okay. I think I got that....

 

But should I have continuity with the points open or closed? Or both?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,495]

28 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

But should I have continuity with the points open or closed? Or both?

That depends where you are probing.

 

Do it this way to identify the ignition wire.

You should have the condenser wire, coil primary wire and ignition wire that goes to the ignition switch connected to the points terminal.

Isolate the ignition wire by removing it from the points. Now check for continuity between that wire end and the loose wires you have. Only one of them will have continuity and that is the one that goes to the ignition switch.

 

Garry

[ebinmaine 63,113]

@gwest_ca

Garry I did those checks last night and came out good !!

The original problem was oxidation on the points.

 

Thanks for explaining that test again.

 

Now on to disassembly to change the crankshaft....

 

[Lee1977 6,217]

On 8/21/2019 at 4:35 AM, ebinmaine said:

@gwest_ca

Garry I did those checks last night and came out good !!

The original problem was oxidation on the points.

 

Thanks for explaining that test again.

 

Now on to disassembly to change the crankshaft...

 

.

Why change the crank shaft? I.m guessing another used crank shaft.  As Dirty Harry said " Do you fell lucky." Or is it just a learning experience..

 

[ebinmaine 63,113]

@Lee1977

This is the engine on which I broke the crankshaft last fall when trying to remove the flywheel.

It has a good carburetor and ignition, so I don't mind changing the crank to see if I can get it up and running again.