Jump to content
Yossarian

Another 246H PTO question

Recommended Posts

Yossarian

I have a 246H that is the lawnmower equivalent of Stephen King's "Christine" .  It will mow over or through anything,I think it's daddy was a brush hog.  It's been run into things and caught on fire. The holes in the deck are patched with license plates, hour meter is stuck at "666" and it just keeps going.  Every year it has an issue that I can usually straighten out with a  little googling, not so much this year.

 

In the middle of mowing the blades stopped. Jiggling the wire harness worked twice and then did nothing.  The harness was damaged when it caught fire a year or two ago so I thought that was most likely. Cut out the harness and direct wired it. No luck.  That's how I ended up here.  The clutch will engage if I jump it straight to the battery. The switch shows no signs of overheating or over voltage. The switch isn't completely blown because the mower won't start if its engaged.  Replacement switches seem to be expensive and hard to find.  My next thoughts are to put in a switch wired directly to the clutch.  Any thoughts, ideas, warnings?

 

Also, if anyone was wondering, I got the mower used. It's actually in better shape than when I first got it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
Yossarian

Thanks for the reply.  Wiring diagrams read like, well, wiring diagrams so I'm going to have to take a minute to wrap my head around it.  Also, I pulled the switch and did a continuity test per youtube instructions.  It looks like the switch is good.  If I test the black and white leads that go to the clutch switch on I get what looks like .65 volts DC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Click on the picture and again on the next page. One of them illustrates how to test the switch.

I don't understand your black and white wire test. Black is usually a ground wire.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yossarian

The instructions are what I did, my Hazard Fraught multimeter zeroed out to no resistance on each combo.  So, good switch?

 

The black and white wires I'm referring to are the ones that connect to the clutch.  I figured by measuring voltage there I could tell how much juice was being sent to the clutch.  None of this is anything I actually know how to do. I just kind of fumble around with a mostly error version of trial and error.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
The Tuul Crib

Maybe you need to perform an 

 Exorcism !!  

 

:ROTF:

 

:text-welcomeconfetti:to:rs:

 

:wwp:

Edited by The Tool Crib

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yossarian
1 hour ago, The Tool Crib said:

Maybe you need to perform an 

 Exorcism !!  

 

:ROTF:

 

:text-welcomeconfetti:to:rs:

 

:wwp:

I'm convinced that demonic possession is what keeps this thing running. It's a trade off I'm willing to live with.  I'll get pictures in the daylight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca
On 6/30/2019 at 7:40 PM, Yossarian said:

It looks like the switch is good.  If I test the black and white leads that go to the clutch switch on I get what looks like .65 volts DC.

The black and white wires at the pto clutch are black and grey in the diagrams so you are correct and not enough power.

The grey wire goes back to the pto switch so check that wire an it's wire to terminal connections. Wires will break at the terminal from vibration.

Also check the black wire connections and where it is bolted to the chassis.

Do the test at the pto clutch with the black test lead on the (-) battery post. If that gives you 12+ volts the problem is the black ground wire back to the battery negative.

 

Garry

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yossarian

Thanks gwest, I didn't do that test exactly but I did follow to check for loose connections. After more digging in old threads here and watching more videos I followed this  voltage regulator test .  I doing so I also noticed the the insulation all three leads to the VR was flaking off.  The new one will be here tomorrow.  I haven't had any charging issues and I've mowed with it all summer so I wasn't thinking VR. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Yossarian

New VR didn't make a difference.  Tried the test gwest suggested and got .5 volts from the positive side straight to the battery. I need to mow. At least for the time being I've wired in a switch.  It fits nicely where the old headlight switch was and goes well with the Frankenmower theme.  If it doesn't blow up over the weekend I'll come back to this. Would still love to hear any suggestions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...