giantsean 59 #1 Posted June 24, 2019 Hi All, So I have a D200 with an original K532 that went through some... stuff. First the fuel pump pooped... added an electric. Then the governor grenaded, found a new governor. I still need to get the timing dialed in just right, but at least it runs again, though has been afterfiring quite a bit on shutdown. Has compression but a little weeping at the heads. Deal with that later. To pick the low hanging fruit, I figured I'd get a carb kit and clean/rebuild the unit to rule that out. Needle and seat actually look much better than I expected. Figures. On the other hand, I found the choke plate bent up quite a bit. No idea how that could happen, but apparently it did. Even though I guess it wouln't make much different while open, I figured I'd pull it off and bang or press it flat anyway. As I was unscrewing the plate I thought "wow these are pretty tight.. hope I don't (pop!) @#$@#$@#$@#$!!!!" So yeah the screw broke off and now I either have to drill out the world's smallest screw or grind it flat enough to remove the lever which gets stuck because of the other end of the screw. Awesome. I could buy a made in china replacement carb but I'm super cheap, and I would rather have an original. Does anyone have any advice to get this screw stub out other than drilling? More importantly, does anyone know the size and pitch of these screws in the first place? Some days I love old stuff... that day is not today lol. Thanks! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,947 #2 Posted June 24, 2019 If it makes you feel any better those screws are near impossible to remove from many carbs. The bottom of the screw is often staked in place to prevent them backing out. I had one I had to grind and even then the threads were stretched so I drilled up a size. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #3 Posted June 24, 2019 I think Eric is right, apparently they are 'staked' to keep them from inadvertley coming loose and getting sucked in. I have been into MANY carbs and its always a problem. I found early on to simply drill them out and replace with 4-40 button head screws. With the little screws being brass they are easily drilled. As best as you can, dimple the center of the broken screw and drill with a #43 drill and tap it. CAUTION!! when you remove the shaft from the carb there is a tiny ball bearing/spring that fits into the body of the carb and acts as a detent on the shaft, and is easily lost........... With the import carbs so readily available - and cheap!, most of them have the different choke lever arm placed wrong so I remove my existing arm/shaft and install on the new carb using this method. I dont remember EVER getting both screws out with out at least ONE breaking. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,981 #4 Posted June 24, 2019 Not sure of the size. I go to ACE hardware and match it. I always file off staked end flush before removing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #5 Posted June 24, 2019 Thanks fellas. This is always the right place to ask I wish I read up a little or I would have done myself a favor and ground down the end of the screw a bit, but chances are it would still break. Also thanks and noted on the detent ball... that explains why it has a little pop on the full closed (or it it open) position that you can feel. Luckily the screw prevents me from actually removing lol. Any theories as to how the plate got so mangled? That looks pretty... not right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,947 #6 Posted June 24, 2019 3 minutes ago, giantsean said: how the plate got so mangled? That looks pretty... not right I do not have and have never seen a D series carburetor taken apart but I'm going to assume that is not correct. That's something that would have had to be done with manual effort and not the cable, I would assume. we've all seen some crazy things that previous owners have done. Perhaps that was somebody's alleviation of improper airflow at some point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #7 Posted June 24, 2019 Yeah I'm even wondering if it's worth it to just get a parts carb and just pull the plate off that rather than try to unbend it. I'm hoping giving the whole thing attention will stop my afterfire problems (I know it's a Kohler but still) and allow the thing to not overheat every six seconds. Timing it is a pain, adjusting it is a pain. Less pain, more tractoring, I always say. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,947 #8 Posted June 24, 2019 16 minutes ago, giantsean said: unbend If it was the throttle plate I'd be a lot more concerned. I would have no qualms whatsoever about putting that on a flat surface and hammering it to a "Close to flat" position.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zlimmy 77 #9 Posted June 26, 2019 About that bent chock plate. I did my carb yesterday, and also noticed a bent plate. I think it is the stopping notch in carb wall that make it. But its due to a long travel on lever, and to much power used when pulling it to run position.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #10 Posted June 28, 2019 Nutty because the plate itself, while not like chill hardened steel, is also not flimsy in the least. Figure it would take a bit of effort to bend it just from actuating it, but I guess the pictures don't lie either! Anyway got the broken screw out... that was hours of fun. I found two #3-48 stainless steel screws with flat washers (no brass available, and also couldn't find split lock washers in that size). Do you figure those plus some red loctite will do me? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,947 #11 Posted June 28, 2019 I don't know the ratings on the various loctites. Be sure it's gas resistant and high heat resistant. It won't see much of either being a choke plate but just to be safe.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #12 Posted June 28, 2019 5 hours ago, giantsean said: Anyway got the broken screw out... that was hours of fun. I found two #3-48 stainless steel screws with flat washers (no brass available, and also couldn't find split lock washers in that size). Do you figure those plus some red loctite will do me? Usually red lecture is normally "permanent" and requires high heat (torch) to remove the true way to lock those tiny screws in place are "staving" them from the thread side once in place and tightened, then to remove that is grind the end flush to the shaft ect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,981 #13 Posted June 28, 2019 I use blue loctite... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #14 Posted June 28, 2019 Yeah in my experience, the red, while "permanent" varies quite a bit w/ the size of the work. Usually I can break smaller stuff w/ just a little heat. Was just trying for the extra safe route bit uou're right, may not be worth it in the end, especially if others have had luck with the blue. I'll try staking it too though I'm sure brass would have been easier for that. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to work on this carb though lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #15 Posted June 28, 2019 Hey one last question. I noticed some of these carb gaskets are nice "thicker" rubber or viton or whatever existed back in the day. These are still in good shape and seem pretty substantial compared to the paper sh*t they give you now. Anyone see an issue to reuse these? I can try a few dabs Seal-All to make it nice. Seems better than spending ten bucks on a piece of paper lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LengerichKA88 1,881 #16 Posted June 28, 2019 1 hour ago, giantsean said: Hey one last question. I noticed some of these carb gaskets are nice "thicker" rubber or viton or whatever existed back in the day. These are still in good shape and seem pretty substantial compared to the paper sh*t they give you now. Anyone see an issue to reuse these? I can try a few dabs Seal-All to make it nice. Seems better than spending ten bucks on a piece of paper lol. Right, wrong, or otherwise: So long as they’re not warped, gouged, ripped, or otherwise visibly mutilated, I reuse gaskets when able/ necessary. 🤷🏻♂️ Have yet to have an issue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
giantsean 59 #17 Posted July 5, 2019 (edited) Edited July 6, 2019 by giantsean Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
