HY-3 Hydraulic Unit on an 854

[ri702bill 7,276]

Hello:

 

I am in the process of adding a HY-2 unit removed from a 702 on to my 854 8 speed. I intend to use the hood stand from the 702, as the crank is not he right one for the 854.

About the cracking of the frame - this is caused by the frame twisting, so also check the mounting ears of the cast iron lower steering support - my 854 was used only for plowing and both were broken when I got it.

Pictures are of the 702.

Bill

 

[953 nut 51,540]

If you clean up the broken end of that head bolt, run a nut down onto it and weld the nut in place the rest of the head bolt will come out. The heat from the welding will beak up the rust that has a grip on it now.

[WHX?? 46,704]

Sorry Kind of lost track here DB ... long weekend with no internet.

That is the bracket I do have yet.... somewhere in my parts shed

Don't really want to part with it yet but can get you the dims you might need to make one.

On the transmission plate cracking, quite common actually. Some guys drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from going further. Then use a large flat washer under the bolt. We have see guys weld a plate over them too and some guys weld or bolt struts from the frame to the lower part of the F plate to reinforce it.

Edited May 29, 2019 by WHX22

[DBlackston 295]

A new update, been doing alot of homework for my summer classes so been lagging behind. 

 

Zach Edwardson was nice enough to give me a wide range of measurements off of an HY-3 rockshaft and I was able to make a model of the part. 

 

 

@hcminis also has an axle bracket with all the pieces so I will be getting that. 

 

 

 

[WHX?? 46,704]

Nice patIna on it as well  ...still need some dims? I got some you need.

[DBlackston 295]

On 5/29/2019 at 5:24 AM, 953 nut said:

If you clean up the broken end of that head bolt, run a nut down onto it and weld the nut in place the rest of the head bolt will come out. The heat from the welding will beak up the rust that has a grip on it now.

 

@953 nut I missed your comment. I am on nut number 3 on trying to remove it. The nuts keep twisting off.

 

 I am going to make a 1/4" thick bar with a 5/16 hole in it to slip over the bolt. Then weld around the bolt to the bar. This method should increase the surface area and hopefully give a bit more leverage to remove the bolt. 

 

 

39 minutes ago, WHX22 said:

Nice patIna on it as well  ...still need some dims? I got some you need.

 

I believe I will no longer require dimensions, However I greatly appreciate the offer.

 

If anyone else is looking for one of these brackets in the future I also found some with Lowell Scholljegerdes and Derek England. 

 

D-J's was the most complete so I purchased that one. 

[DBlackston 295]

Tonight I worked on this project and made a little headway. 

 

I started with taking the cylinder apart. After taking the fittings out I expected the cylinder to come apart without much fuss. 

 

To my disdain it did not. 

 

I ended up having to hook the clevis end of the rod over a bolt and using it like a makeshift slide hammer to remove the end cap. 

 

I could at the beginning not get it to move much at all, but after several hits It had come out approx 1/16th. I sprayed it with some lube and gently tapped it back down. 

 

I repeated this process each time gaining a little more ground than previously. 

 

Once apart I was able to determine the issue. The cylinder and piston have a large accumulation of what I am going to refer to as sediment. It appears to be finely ground up rust actually. 

 

 

Looks like it was time for the cylinder to come apart!

 

[DBlackston 295]

Once I took the cylinder apart I worked on the pump itself. 

 

I do not think I am the first person to be inside of this pump. Two newer looking screws and the overpowering smell of that freeze off type rust breaker leads me to that conclusion. 

 

I was able to completely dissasemble the pump with minimal issue except for the valve section that the handle mounts too. This part would not turn freely even with the spring removed and I believe this had something to do with the amount of rust in this pump. 

 

 

Time to clean up some parts and start reassembly!

 

 

Edited June 2, 2019 by DBlackston

[DBlackston 295]

Here is another photo of the pump head itself. You can see the rust on the face.

 

 

I also made a trip to town today and picked up all of the hardware I was missing. 

 

I need to cut down the 1/4" pipe spacers and buy a belt. I always forget atleast 1 stop in town when I go to buy parts. 

 

Other than that I think I am well on my way to completing this project!

 

 

Edited June 2, 2019 by DBlackston

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Looking great!

[DBlackston 295]

Those of you that have completed this rebuild.

 

Do the leather (I think) pieces here need replaced or do I only replace the O-ring?

 

[WHX?? 46,704]

I thought Lowell said just use two O-rings and sends two in his kits but he also has the backers if you want to go that route. Check the cylinder for pitting. If there is the cylinder is scrap, they will rip up new O-rings.

That pump looks pretty clean compared to the one I had. I had a bear of a time getting out the spool valve. I also thought someone said they were tapered and should only come out one way. I used a brake cylinder hone to polish up the spool bore but maybe too much as it leaked bad around it after assembly. I finally gave up on it and gave it to Lowell to see what he could do with it.

There is also a spring and check ball under a plug on the housing. This is the relief/bypass.  That should be removed and cleaned.

 

 

This one was a bear to get out -- stripped out slotted head and rusted. Note the heat wrench!

Edited June 3, 2019 by WHX22

[DBlackston 295]

Must have overlooked that. I will try the two O-ring approach. 

 

I thought about running a home through my spool valve bore as well but may just hit it with some scotch brite to knock off any crud. 

 

My spring wasnt actually broken, the valve was just froze it turned out.

 

I will check the cylinder for pitting. I also considered giving it a quick hone but may not. 

 

Ill be sure to clean up the bypass and spring just in case its dirty. 

[WHX?? 46,704]

There is a check ball underneath the spring so don't let it go rolling under the bench! Scotch brite may be best but wouldn't remove the rust in mine. Maybe very lightly with a 220 hone. Mine was very bad tho. It actually had water sitting in it yet.

Edited June 3, 2019 by WHX22

[DBlackston 295]

I gave everything a gas bath tonight and it cleaned up quite a bit. 

 

I ran a hone inside the reservoir tank and it cleaned up about 75% of the surface area. The rest is badly pitted and I think it is either where water condensed at the top, or sat at the bottom of the resivoir. This shouldnt affect the functionality though. 

 

I did not have a hone that would fit either the spool valve bore or the inside of the cylinder. Instead I made two passes around what I could reach of the spool valve with a piece of 220grit emery and some WD for lube. 

 

I made approx 10 rounds with the paper on the area I could reach inside the cylinder where the end cap rests when installed.  This area was particularly rusted and pitted which makes sense because it should not see fluid, and is sealed at the farthest end inside leaving the rest vulnerable.  After wiping up my mess I looked inside the cylinder and it only has one or two areas farther inside that look to be surface rust not pitting.

 

The cylinder rod is also shiny and smooth everywhere except the last 2 inches, which I believe with the configuration will rarely/never be used.

 

Pushing the rod and piston inside of the cylinder is tight at full extension and full retract. However the center is smooth. I think what I was feeling was it getting into the areas of the cylinder that have never been used and the area where the end fitting rests. 

 

I also tried to reinstall the spool valve but could not get it to start into the bore. After looking at the bore I saw where I had inadvertently hit the lip of the bore and it was swelled out.  I diamond filed this area down and was able to lube the piston and start it into the bore. 

 

It did not go in easily by any means. Many times in and out gaining a couple thousandths each time it seemed. Twisting increased the amount of headway I made considerably.

 

Eventually I was able to get the spool valve in place but it turned very hard. I pushed it in 1/4-1/2" and lubed the piston. I then installed the piston and worked it back and forth and in full circles stopping to wipe the bore and valve every 5 or so turns. The cloth showed a redish black deposit at first, then turned to grey after several minutes worth of actuating thr cylinder. I beleive it was actually lapping some of the deposits off as I did this, the lever now turns freeley with the resistance I would expect from an O-ring that has that tight of a fit. 

 

Hopefully in the coming days I can get the cylinder and other pieces completed and isntalled so that all I have to fix is a K181 and build a rockshaft. 

[DBlackston 295]

On 5/28/2019 at 11:36 PM, DBlackston said:

Saturday did not go well for me on this install. 

 

I have been fighting keeping this K181 running for more than 10 minutes or so. 

 

I decided to pull the head and see if there was any scoring in the cylinder, or an excess of carbon in the combustion chamber. 

 

Of course, the bolt next to the exhaust snapped so I have  been focusing on removing that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Head Bolt removed!!!!

 

Pictures and write up here. 

 

 

[DBlackston 295]

Also picked up material for the rockshaft this weekend!

[DBlackston 295]

Started tonight off with getting the head put back on this machine.  Went well but the tractor still wont run right. Any changes to the throttle or choke while running and it dies. 

 

 

Test fit the Hood Stand Fitting I milled a few days ago for the rockshaft build.

 

Off the waterjet before mill.

 

After Mill

 

 

Installed

 

Also rebuilt the pump and installed that. Only things lacking are the belt (on order) and the fluid (need to determine what kind).

 

 

The lever returns well with the new spring from the rear position, but sticks in the forward direction. It takes very little force to get it to return to center though. 

 

I am hoping this is a symptom of the dry bore it was installed in and will go away after the pump is filled, internally lubricated, and actuated a few times. 

 

 

Put the rear axle bracket on as well and mounted the cylinder to it.

 

 

Its getting very close to a test run and I am very excited!

[DBlackston 295]

On 5/22/2019 at 6:45 AM, adsm08 said:

Watch yourself closely with the shaft seal for the pump. I had a lot of trouble getting it installed correctly. Lowell told me he starts them with a socket that they just fit inside the end of. I didn't have any luck with that either, and just ended up installing it backwards. So far so good, but it has only been two weeks.

 

 

I put this seal in by installing the shaft into the pump and holding the pump head in my left hand with the gear resting against my palm.

 

I then slid the seal over the shaft followed by a deep socket that barely fit over the shaft. 

 

When eveything was pushed down and I checked for it being square I used a 2 oz ball peen to gently tap the seal in. Always tapping on the side of the seal that appeared higher. About 100 taps later the seal was in. 

 

I did notice it actually cut a small eyelash of rubber off of the seal all the way around as it went in. Very tight fit!

 

 

 ....my first seal I did witj just the socket and not the shaft ended up a wadded up mess....

Edited November 14, 2019 by DBlackston

[DBlackston 295]

Almost there!

 

One of my spacers is about 1/4" too short and I broke my allen wrench trying to get the fill plug out. 

 

I could have swore I had it out before but must have missed it. 

 

I hit it with penetrating oil a few times tonight, I'll hit it with heat and an impact tommorow and hopefully get a chance to see this baby work!

 

[DBlackston 295]

When you break an allen getting a plug out....well you might as well get your use out of the allen!

 

 

Everything is installed now minus the rockshaft.

 

There is a slow leak coming from the head side of the pump. Hopefully just something loose and not from the shaft seal. 

 

Cylinder does actuate smooth though!

 

Have an issue with the valve not wanting to return to center well still. However it is 30 degrees out so hoping that and the new O ring are the issues. Maybe it will loosen up as I use it?