wheelhorse B -100 problems

[vmen84 61]

So was nice Saturday so I decided to mulch my leaves.  Here's the kicker after I got done my mower completely stopped the battery won't hold a charge so I had to push it all the way to the shed. I don't know if anybody some had to do that before but it is a task. The battery is not holding a charge I bought this battery last year at the beginning of the season I'm not a mechanic so have no idea what the problem could be I can only assume it's either the regulator this starter or something electrical. Anybody has any ideas or any suggestions let me know thanks

[rmaynard 14,896]

First, check all of your electrical connections including grounds. The B-100 is simple as far as wiring is concerned. After ascertaining that all connections are clean and tight, you need to see what kind of voltage you have at the battery when the engine is  running. At mid to full throttle you should have at least 13.5 volts DC. If you do, and the battery still won't hold a charge, then you probably have a bad battery.

Now if you don't have 13.5 volts when charging, you have to find where you are losing your charging voltage. First suspect is a bad ammeter or the connections to it. If the voltage on either side of the ammeter to ground is 13.5 volts or higher, it's okay and your problem could be the regulator/rectifier or the connections to it.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

It is next to impossible to test a charging system without having a known good and charged battery in place. Have the means to give the old battery a slow 2 amp charge for a few days? Or another battery that you know will start a tractor?

You could take the battery to a supplier for testing but an attempt to charge it must be made first. You can't test a dead battery.

 

Make sure the top of the battery is clean and dry. If it is wet it may be sulfuric acid and needs to be neutralized with baking soda and then well rinsed. Don't get any on you or your clothes.

That dampness will discharge a battery if it extends from post to post because it is a conductor of electricity.

Good idea to remove the cell caps to make sure the plates are covered with liquid. Many batteries now have 2 caps that cover 3 cells each. Gently work a slot screwdriver under the cover and pry the cap up one at a time. If low add a bit of distilled water so the cells are covered but not to a level that is up into the cap tubes. The wife's turkey baster works well.

Now charge it at 2 amps.

 

Garry

[daveoman1966 3,611]

If the voltage rectifier (regulator...that finned thingy) isn't grounded to the hoodstand (frame), it will NOT perform properly and not allow adequate current to flow to the battery.  Where it bolts to the hoodstand, corrosion develops between the aluminum rectifier body and the steel frame work of the hoodstand.  Take it off ..completelely...and clean off all the corrosion at contact points...including the nuts/bolts.

  

[Rob R 951]

Not sure how technical you are but here is a real simple way to chk if you tractor charging system is working. All you need is a simple VOM meter if you don't have one it will cost you like $10 dollars at Harbor Freight. When you get the meter put it on the DC scale (I use the 20 volt scale) put the black lead to ground battery lead and the red on the power side of the battery. 

1.) Take a voltage reading with the tractor not running and the key off;  make note of the voltage (should be in the 12 > 14 volt range) if the battery is good.... regardless write down the voltage.

2.) Then start the tractor and rev it up a bit you should see the voltage go UP from where it was in the static state.

 

If the voltage does NOT go up you are NOT charging the then you know that you need to chk the voltage output from the stator (using the same meter) on the AC Scale and the output from the regulator (all available in the manual) so you can pinpoint what is bad...…   Hope this helps