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SimonC

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SimonC
Just now, pfrederi said:

Facet Posiflo #60304 1-2 psi or #60245 1.5-4psi  I have used both.  So far 3-4 years on some.  Had one of cheap Chinese no name one fail after a short time.

 

how do you actually wire them ?, powered through the accessory switch circuit and that's it ? (assuming a 3 positions switch and not 4).

 

thanks

 

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pfrederi
19 minutes ago, SimonC said:

 

how do you actually wire them ?, powered through the accessory switch circuit and that's it ? (assuming a 3 positions switch and not 4).

 

thanks

 

Yes the ACC terminal.  it will not pump while you are cranking.  Turn eh switch to run first for a few seconds you will hear eh pump when the sound changes a bit your carb bowl is full and you can go ahead and crank..  these pumps only draw a couple amps I do not use relays and have never had any issues.

Edited by pfrederi
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SimonC

so status update.

 

with the new carb, with the fuel line now bypassing the old pump, it puuurrrrs :)

 

now one of the issue I have is that one of the bolt on top has stripped threads, so smoke it's puffing out of it when the engine runs.  will see if I can find a proper replacement as I'm guessing it's messing up with compression.  But I'm getting there.

 

does anyone know if those bolt are pretty specific to the hh100 or I should easily find a replacement in any random small engine repair shop ? 

 

thanks for the help everyone.  I might have figured some of this out eventually, but you all just made it much smoother and less stressful.

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Tractorhead
3 hours ago, SimonC said:

so status update.

 

with the new carb, with the fuel line now bypassing the old pump, it puuurrrrs :)

 

now one of the issue I have is that one of the bolt on top has stripped threads, so smoke it's puffing out of it when the engine runs.  will see if I can find a proper replacement as I'm guessing it's messing up with compression.  But I'm getting there.

 

does anyone know if those bolt are pretty specific to the hh100 or I should easily find a replacement in any random small engine repair shop ? 

 

thanks for the help everyone.  I might have figured some of this out eventually, but you all just made it much smoother and less stressful.

 

Hi Simon,

good to hear, you made it.

 

About the Bolt, have a closer look for repair threads even in Engine.

I would be wondering, if the thread in Engine itself is fine, and just Bolt is down..

 

to repair Thread in Engine, look at Helicoil.

You mostly can buy a complete set for the diameter you need to repair.

it was that simple as it should and the new threads are improoved.

 

Pic from the Bolt you meant?

Edited by Tractorhead

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SimonC
7 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

have a closer look for repair threads even in Engine

I'll use one of the other bolts to confirm if the block thread are damaged.

 

I also noticed that contrary to the engine manual, I dont seem to have any belleville washers on my cylinder head bolts... will see if I can source this...

 

thanks

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SimonC

someone know what grade those bolts are ?  I know they have to be "somewhat" soft, but can't find the actual details.

 

thanks

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, SimonC said:

someone know what grade those bolts are ?  I know they have to be "somewhat" soft, but can't find the actual details.

 

thanks

@pfrederi ?

Do you know?

I thought all cylinder head bolts were usable with grade 8 as long as you could find a properly sized diameter and thickness washer.

 

@SimonC

Likely the reason your cylinder head bolt is stripped is because a lot of people don't realize that you can only use them two or three times even on an older cast iron engine like that. A lot of the newer engines you can only use them once and then they are garbage.

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SimonC
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@pfrederi ?

Do you know?

I thought all cylinder head bolts were usable with grade 8 as long as you could find a properly sized diameter and thickness washer.

 

@SimonC

Likely the reason your cylinder head bolt is stripped is because a lot of people don't realize that you can only use them two or three times even on an older cast iron engine like that. A lot of the newer engines you can only use them once and then they are garbage.

guessing someone might have overtorqued it also.  can't wait to go in there and test with another bolt see if the thread in the block is stripped.  sure hope not.

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Tractorhead

I think @ebinmaine means jackscrews.

 

they have just to used one time.

they will be pulled with a predefined torque, than mostly with degrees finally tightened.

 

Sorry for the screwgrade, or if this are realy jackscrews, i don't have further infos.

Edited by Tractorhead

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pfrederi

Grade 5 bolts are just fine we aren't controlling nuclear fusion here.

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ebinmaine
7 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Grade 5 bolts are just fine we aren't controlling nuclear fusion here.

Any particular washer recommended?

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pfrederi
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Any particular washer recommended?

 

I bought bellville spring washers for the Techy HH10 when  worked on it.  I wouldn't over think this.  Kohler K series didn't use lock washers at all just a thick washer....

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SimonC

so current status: 

 

tested with one of the other bolts that wasn't stripped to see if the block thread was ok.  It actually is good.  Took the stripped bolt and went to a small engine shop, they sold me a used one for one buck.  Not complaining.  Installed it, and ran the thing for at least 2-3 hours snow

blowing the driveway (way overdue, very thick heavy wet snow, over between 8 to 15 inches).  apart for some bad snow clogging, went better than expected.  

 

satisfied with the traction even on the incline going up (fluid in tires + chains), no extra weight other than my fat ass :)

 

now I also understand why one of the PO installed a winch to control the height of the snow blower.

 

I need to add a light, install a new switch for it (just received waterproof (splash proof maybe) ones from aliexpress).

 

wondering if it's worth sending my old carb to the carburetor rescue guy (or find someone local).  

 

current annoyances:

  • I dont have the side angle metal plate on my blower mouth, so my tires are a standing a bit wider than the snow plow, just enough to be a tad annoying
  • reverse speed is very slow on low gear, and 1st gear on high was too high for this kind of snow, have a long driveway, so shifting constantly
  • shifting levers are tad low (I blame my belly that's in the way)
  • this thing drinks fuel like crazy.  
  • it's very loud, but I have some holes in the pipe leading to the muffler, got some high temp j.b weld that I'll try on them see if that improves noise level and maybe even helps the engine.
  • I smell really bad after this long sitting on it.  hoping that fixing the exhaust holes will also help.

even with all the gripes, still love the stupid thing.  

 

thanks

Edited by SimonC
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ebinmaine

Absolutely awesome to hear you got this thing up and running.

 

 

Definitely understand what you're saying about the shifting.

I'm just too much of a gear jamming freak 2 want a hydro... Right now.

 

I've had very mixed results with using J-B weld on different things.

Exhaust is going to be a tough one. Partially because of the high heat but more so because the pipe is going to be very very Rusty and you really cannot properly clean out the holes that you're trying to fill.

One of the.... To be nice about it... Initiations... About having an old garden tractor is trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the engine.

They are quite often just  not that much fun but that is what you really should do.

 

Just keep working on the little things and before long you'll get that thing dialed right in.

Oh, and they are not called... Gripes.

We refer to them as reasons.

Reasons to have more shop time!!

 

 

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SimonC

yeah ... the task of taking the pipe out of the engine block seems almost impossible.  it REALLY seems to be jammed in there with all the rust it can handle :)

 

I already have the high temperature jb weld .. guess I can always try it anyway .. worst case it wont hold .. as for cleaning the holes, I might actually just drill them clean ... 

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, SimonC said:

yeah ... the task of taking the pipe out of the engine block seems almost impossible.  it REALLY seems to be jammed in there with all the rust it can handle :)

 

I already have the high temperature jb weld .. guess I can always try it anyway .. worst case it wont hold .. as for cleaning the holes, I might actually just drill them clean ... 

If you can do that, you may very well get that stuff to hold.

 

 

and you're right about that exhaust pipe. The reason it looks like it's never going to come out of that engine is because it really just does not want to move.

 

I've done maybe four or five of those so far?

 

The last one I did was on a 16 horse and I had been soaking that pipe in several different kinds of penetrating oil for several months.

I took a pipe wrench that was probably 14in long by itself and put a 5 foot extension pipe on the handle of that.

 

in this particular case what I did on purpose was to put the pipe wrench quite close to the threads in the engine and push down and effectively crush the pipe out from the inside of the engine.

I crushed it once at about a three or four o'clock angle and then raised the pipe up to about 11 o clock position and did it again. It came out then.

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SimonC

and you managed to reuse the thread after crushing the old pipe or you had to re-tap them ? 

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ebinmaine
16 minutes ago, SimonC said:

and you managed to reuse the thread after crushing the old pipe or you had to re-tap them ? 

I was able to clean the threads out a little bit manually with a small wire brush just to get some of the carbon and crap out of there and then took a new piece of pipe and carefully wound it in and out a few times to clean the threads a bit more. And then just wound it right in and tightened it down and it was perfectly fine.

 

There is a slightly more extreme version of this same procedure which I have not yet tried. One of the other members on here was describing it. You take a thin Sawzall blade or jigsaw blade and very very very carefully cut into the inside of the exhaust pipe and that makes places that it actually wants to snap out. Obviously, this is not to be Tried by the faint of heart or those of us like myself that have been known to be a bull in a china shop.

If you cut too deep you will cut a Groove in the engine threads...

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Sarge

My go-to method is to use a Sawzall. Yes, I've notched the block threads on more than one Kohler, but it really doesn't hurt it unless you go really deep past the thread limits. I do recommend making sure that exhaust valve is closed and just take your time - a couple of seconds is all, then stop and check your cut after cleaning out the hole. I also jam a small portion of a rag into the back port area behind the threads so no debris can get into the valve guide. Short blade, take your time and use a good, bright light to check the depth of the cut. Once you start to see the iron block's threads, stop. Using a pipe wrench on it at this point with the wrench's bottom jaw just ahead of the counterclockwise side of the cut will cause the rusty steel pipe to crush. Once it crushes down a little, it screws right out easily with no block damage. 

1" taps, even cheap ones work fine to clean up those threads - just make sure if it has a tapered tip it won't hit the valve stem itself.

 

Sarge

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