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SimonC

cranks when powered

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Tractorhead

Honestly i dont know the specific  torque at your Engine, think Garry has an Datasheet therefore

where you can get your Enginespecific torques.

 

But as far as i meant, it shall be 60-65 lbf ft thats about 81-89 nm.

that are common values, i know about.

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SimonC

I took the number from the Tecumseh engine manual. Nut was rather easy to unbolt with the impact. Just not sure how I'll put it back now. I sure hope I'm wrong. 

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Tractorhead

It seems to me on your Pic, that the thread is a finethread - think ist called a unf thread-  

this is for me a indicator, that the torque is not as strong as a normal thread.

 

800 nm seems to me too much. 

I had only once 800 nm, that was on a old mercedes Truck used by Piston rod.

It was in 4 steps -  first 90nm than 180 nm then 2x 90 dregrees. I need a lot of force and a special torquewrench to realize that.

but i will not believe, this torque is used on a flywheel.

 

 

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Tractorhead

It seems to me on your Pic, that the thread is a finethread - think ist called a unf thread-  

this is for me a indicator, that the torque is not as strong as a normal thread.

 

800 nm seems to me too much. 

I had only once 800 nm, that was on a Truck.

 

Added:

Found a technical Service Tecumseh manual for Lan mower Engines -12HP. in German, 

in wich the Flywheel torque at 50 Nm or 35 ft pds is given.

 

Edited by Tractorhead
Added info

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pfrederi
21 hours ago, SimonC said:

do I see this right,, 600-650 ft pound torque for the flywheel nut.  What you guys do, I think my impact only goes up to 500 or 550 in that direction, and my 1/2 inch torque wrench only does 250 .. 

 

thanks

 

Simon

 

 

Think you misread the manual it is 600-660 Inch lbs  or 50-55 ft lbs

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SimonC

ohhh ... inch pounds .. I see my mistake :)

 

thanks

 

Simon

 

image.png.1be2ffb2202477e53b419ed97184d214.png

Edited by SimonC

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SimonC

Hi,

 

So I cleaned up everything, protected the squeezed wire after checking that only the jacket was pinched. Reinstalled everything, spaced the pin correctly. I also got a spark tester. Spark is great.

 

Now my issue is that the engine does not keep running unless I keep spraying engine starting spray in the carb. 

 

There's fuel in my carb bowl. Oil (which I changed (old one was like tar)) level is good. 

 

Should I blame my old carb that I have not yet replaced (like a stuck jet or something)??

 

Thanks

 

 

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Tractorhead

compression is ok?

Did you checked? 

 

if you crank, did you get fuel smell? 

That indicates, that the carb seems to work.

 

If no, next step clean the carb.

please do this carefully, because floatvalve is mostly a bit a Diva on older carbs.

and if dejusted the carb wont work as needed or expected.

 

check firstly if floatvalve works easy and no deposits where in the floatchamber,

that will be the most problems on carbs. 

If you don't have a filter between tank and carb, install one.

 

If everything is free and clean, check also carefully the needle, it should be not bent and must be good condition.

(clean surface) if not or if pollutions on it, clean it carefully with steelwool, but not with any force.

 

use compressed air, to blow each vent in both direction.

oh, be shure to use a cloth - to protect yourself from spitting vents..😂

Don't face anytime in this procedure the carb to yourself! 

- And please use googles, to protect your eyes , because i wanna read you success! 

 

If all vents are free, it shall be starting, if timing is correct.

 

I suspected the floatvalve.

 

Choke was initiated while cranking?

Edited by Tractorhead
Added question
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SimonC

Hi again, 

 

So I replaced the carb with another one which is brand new (for which I'll have to manually deal with the choke as the shaft is different).

 

I am having the same issue, where unless I use starting fluid spay, engine wont run.

 

I let it run for around 30 seconds with the spay.  I then checked the bowl of the new carb and it's bone dry.  Since I believe the previous owner(s) neglected changing the oil, and as I mentionned, it was so dirty that it looked like molasse.  Is it possible that my fuel pump simply decided to pick this time to stop working ? 

 

are the pump rebuild kit I've seen around worthwhile or I should look for another ? 

 

thanks, yet again.

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ebinmaine

@SimonC

Get a piece of see through fuel line so you can see the fuel running through it.

I've stopped using black rubber hose on all of my tractors and equipment so that I can see if they're getting gas.

There are several different colors and versions on the market. Be sure to not use clean old vinyl. Make sure it's verified as fuel usable.

 

Run a line directly from the shut off on your fuel tank straight to the carburetor. Bypass the fuel pump. Verify fuel is Flowing to the carburetor then try to start it and see what happens. That will diagnose what's going on with the fuel pump itself.

 

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pfrederi

Pull the line off the output side of the pump and crank the engine  any spurting??

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SimonC
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Run a line directly from the shut off on your fuel tank straight to the carburetor. Bypass the fuel pump. Verify fuel is Flowing to the carburetor then try to start it and see what happens. That will diagnose what's going on with the fuel pump itself.

so that would make it gravity fed ? 

 

will reinstall it and see if it spurt when cranking.  

 

thx

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, SimonC said:

so that would make it gravity fed ? 

 

will reinstall it and see if it spurt when cranking.  

 

thx

There are a lot of engines that are gravity-fed all the time.

In fact, that tractor would probably be perfectly fine if it was left just that way and the fuel pump was not even used.

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Tractorhead

@pfrederi good issue 👍

 

@SimonC

by the way, is the fueltank itself clean and filled with fresh gasoline? 

(Old fuel can lost it's Ignitability, but that's not you main Prob - actual.)

rust and dirt can clog your fueltankvalve also, pump gets no fuel -> fuel doesn't come to carb...

 

as @ebinmaine suggest, look from the beginning.

fueltankvalve - pull fuelline ahead of fuelpump and put it in a glass and fill a bit via fuelvalve opening.

if it runs nearly like niagara falls, youre fine, if it just drips, empty fueltank and clean it, even the fueltankvalve.

 

Next step will be bypassing the fuelpump if the carb is lower than the Fueltank, it runs definiteley in gravity fed

- i would suggest an additional inserted filter -  just to prevent dirt from gascan filling or Fueltank goes into Carb and clogs.

 

if this way runs, it may be your fuelpump.

 

 

 

 

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SimonC

The fuel tank is not the original one.  It's a plastic one right now (yay, no rust!, boohoo @ authenticity).

 

There was already an in-line fuel filter which I replaced already.  I have already burned all the fuel that was in the tank since purchasing (and put in fresh one).  

 

Now, should the tractor work with gravity feeding.  Would you guys leave it as is or should I look to rebuild the pump or replace for a low pressure electric one ? 

 

thanks

 

Simon

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ebinmaine
29 minutes ago, SimonC said:

The fuel tank is not the original one.  It's a plastic one right now (yay, no rust!, boohoo @ authenticity).

 

There was already an in-line fuel filter which I replaced already.  I have already burned all the fuel that was in the tank since purchasing (and put in fresh one).  

 

Now, should the tractor work with gravity feeding.  Would you guys leave it as is or should I look to rebuild the pump or replace for a low pressure electric one ? 

 

thanks

 

Simon

There are different schools of thought and opinions on those fuel pumps.

 

I personally prefer to rebuild the metal one that was original if possible. There is a kit online that can be had for about $30.

There are plastic replacement fuel pumps for about half that price. I don't have any tractors with the electric pumps but a lot of the guys really like them a lot.

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pfrederi

This is a Techy and there are some diaphragm replacements available.  but you have to find the right one for your pump Tecumseh had a lot of different pumps.. 

 

My L107 has run flawlessly for 50 years relying on gravity...    Your Raider should run OK on gravity you may have an issue if you are on a long upgrade with a nearly empty tank.

 

 

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Tractorhead

Think it depends on, how original it shall be.

In my case, i use my little Tractor primary for working issues, to make me work easyer,

means - the functionality is absolutely in foreground.

 

If i can make it original, yes i will do, no question.

If i get problems to find original Parts in short time needed, i made myself or look in $bay.

so i would'nt hesitate to use a plastic one ( maybe a bit hidden) 😎

 

 

 

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SimonC

I dont think a 69-70 raider 10 running a hh100 is a good target for a restoration project out of Canada.  At this point I'm (and the wife with her big eyes) looking at getting this as reliable as it can be for it's age.

 

Guys have any model suggestion for an electric pump that fits the bill should gravity end up being troublesome ? 

 

thanks

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

This is a Techy and there are some diaphragm replacements available.  but you have to find the right one for your pump Tecumseh had a lot of different pumps.. 

 

My L107 has run flawlessly for 50 years relying on gravity...    Your Raider should run OK on gravity you may have an issue if you are on a long upgrade with a nearly empty tank.

 

 

Trina has that Briggs in her 657 and that's been performing perfectly fine and we live on the side of a mountain

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, SimonC said:

 

Guys have any model suggestion for an electric pump that fits the bill should gravity end up being troublesome ? 

@953 nut

I'm thinking you have one?

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Tractorhead

If it runs nicely in gravity fed and you working mostly at lower enginePower, try it.

if you begin to miss Power, install a neg. Press fuel pump.

i'm not shure if it was sensful on a tractor an electrical fuel pump.

 

 

 

in most cases you will be fine with just gravity fed,

only if Engine has to deliver long term max Power, it's imho better to install a Pump.

if Engine leans short a bit, it shall no a big problem,  if engine runs long term to lean, you damaging maybe the Engine.

 

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SimonC

seems like there are some decent choices, just not sure how much PSI the mechanical pump currently provides: 

 

http://www.mechanicalcaveman.com/best-electric-pump-for-carburetor-fuel-pump-review/

 

as those are all pump that seems to be purposed for car or trucks .. guessing I can find something for small engine.. 

Edited by SimonC

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Tractorhead

Take a look at scooters, the have metal fuel pump suction feeded.

they have also improoved metal versions, by tuning scooter parts.

 

 

Edited by Tractorhead

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pfrederi

Facet Posiflo #60304 1-2 psi or #60245 1.5-4psi  I have used both.  So far 3-4 years on some.  Had one of cheap Chinese no name one fail after a short time.

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