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Bucko

STILL...no spark

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Bucko

I had a thread going about a no spark condition, and after replacing the ignition coil twice, the points twice, the condenser twice, and used three different spark plugs (two known good), a great member here sent me a flywheel that had 12 magnets instead of the 10 that where on my existing one, thinking that a previous owner of this Wheel Horse perhaps changed it.

 

Well, that flywheel did not correct the problem. I still have no spark. That original thread is here: 

I'm at a complete loss as to why I cannot obtain a spark with this engine. The rest of the tractor is in good shape, and the engine has great compression, gas is getting to the spark plug, just no spark.

 

Edited by Bucko

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ebinmaine

I've never tackled one of those but I know they can be quite finicky.

 

Is there a way to bench test the coil and connections while the flywheel is off?

 

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Bucko

I'm not sure...but if there is, I'm all ears.

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ohiofarmer

I found out the hard way that you need to make sure that the safety switches need to be in start mode.  For instance, make sure that you are on the seat and push in the clutch with the mule drive out of gear.  I also had an incident when pushing in the clutch did not activate that switch due to it being out of adjustment range to activate the safety switch.

 

 I also really like to use a cheap Harbor Freight timing light to monitor for spark activity. It will pick up little clues more easily than other spark checking devices due to its bright flash. For instance, with my safety switch issue, i got just one flash AFTER cranking to start. That one flash told me that the kill wire was active while cranking, but ceased when i stopped cranking which meant a safety switch was activated.Also, did you know that a spark plug might fire while testing it outside the engine, but might not fire when installed?  Timing light or in line spark checker is the better way to check 

 

 I suppose that the same thing could be seen if you had the machine in a darkened garage or at night. One of my friends found a bad spark plug wire arcing spark that way.      Good luck.

Edited by ohiofarmer

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Pullstart

It isn’t mentioned here, but is the coil powered correctly and the condenser is on the correct terminal?

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stevasaurus

I hate to do this, but after 3 pages of trying to get things going, I feel like we need to go to a higher power.  @TT  (moderator) can you take a look at this??

Thanks Terry  :eusa-think:

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953 nut
8 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

I feel like we need to go to a higher power.

Image result for praying hands

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formariz

Pretty crazy. He has pretty much tried everything. We will see how the tests suggested by Gary will go. I am also sending him a complete working magneto including spark pug wire from a  working H55. If that along with the flywheel I already sent him from same engine does not work, then we will really need a higher intervention. I don't know how it is affecting him but it is driving me nuts and I have never met that stubborn Techy. :angry-banghead:

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ebinmaine

I'm hoping the one in Trina's 657 is not as stubborn as this one. That's why I'm following this thread.

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TT

Well................
I guess the first thing I would check for is continuity to ground through the "kill" circuit. (and the condensor lead, breaker points, etc.) Any unwanted contact or a short will prohibit spark as if the ignition switch is in the off position.
The charging coils (stator) and corresponding flywheel magnets have nothing to do with the production of spark from the magneto.

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WHNJ701
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm hoping the one in Trina's 657 is not as stubborn as this one. That's why I'm following this thread.

when I start working on my 551 as soon as tecumseh looks at me crooked it's getting yanked and replaced with a k91

Edited by jabelman
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