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TravelinJavelin

953 transmission out again 3rd time lol

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stevasaurus

Having either the roll pin or the "C" clip makes no difference.  They both work and the different axles would interchange...the length of the axle is what is important.  :)

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ebinmaine
42 minutes ago, TravelinJavelin said:

ok so if i grind the middle slot down i'd take off a 1/16" then correct and middle one only or to both forks? i might end up doing this job myself just becuase we ended up with a half inch of snow last night

Do you have your pins out in your hand and have measured them?

 

I'm no transmission expert. I'll let the other guys comment. But I don't think I would want to be grinding on the shift Fork shaft. Those are machined surfaces that need to be very smooth for those detent balls to be riding correctly.

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TravelinJavelin

just wonder why they would go to trouble of doing this in going back to the original 5045 tranny?.......................i think i'm going to get my garage set up and i'm going to take pics as i open it up and or video and you and maybe racin bob can tell me whats going on because curriousity is killing me

 

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ebinmaine
19 minutes ago, TravelinJavelin said:

just wonder why they would go to trouble of doing this in going back to the original 5045 tranny?.......................i think i'm going to get my garage set up and i'm going to take pics as i open it up and or video and you and maybe racin bob can tell me whats going on because curriousity is killing me

 

I'm curious too.

 

 

Definitely take a bunch of pictures.

You'll need to become a site supporter to post very many.

Absolutely worth the 20 bucks for the information that you're getting!

:handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Between @Racinbob and @stevasaurus you'll be good to go in no time.

 

 

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Racinbob

Don't let my first picture confuse you. That's an original style and the first revised style together. Both rails have the deeper neutral detents. The 1st/reverse rail has equally spaced detents and the 2nd/3rd rail has unequally spaced detents. I'm with Eric on not trying to grind them deeper. I'd suggest doing what Steve said and see where you're at. It would be nice to replace the rails with the newer style and longer pin since you will have it apart but if everything is right the old style will be fine. :)

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953 nut
3 hours ago, TravelinJavelin said:

now also i meant to add to this but another idicator someone had been into this tranny to was on the axles these were roll pin held together and was suprised to see there C clips in its place and if i remember correctly cut the slot directly over the center of the hole where the roll pin goes into

Last evening you had asked about the length of the axles. Your differential is off set a bit so the axles are not the same, one is 14" and the other is 14 3/4".

It is interesting that the axles are cut for "C Clips", is the differential/bull gear the original type or has it been replaced by a later one?

:wwp:

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stevasaurus

Just a little history on those shift rails.  Wheel Horse's first transmission was the #5003 and then the #5010 (3 piece) uses most of the same parts as the two piece #5007 and #5025.  The 3 piece transmissions had side plates, so the suction problem was not there...the shift rails were not sitting in blind holes.  When the 2 piece transmissions came along, those rails ended up in a blind hole...on both ends.  If you shifted to fast from 2nd or 3rd into 1st or reverse (or vise versa) the suction could suck the vacated shift rail back into gear while the shifter ball was in the other shift rail fork.  Thus your trans ended up in 2 gears at the same time.  The only fix was to pull the shifter and move both forks back into neutral.  The first fix Wheel Horse tried was to use a lighter oil then the 90wt.  When that did not solve the problem, they ground a flat on the shift rails and lengthened the stop...plus grinding the neutral groove a little deeper to manage the new stop.  With the new stop and new rails, you cannot shift the other rail while in gear.

   I would feel very comfortable just grinding a flat on the rails as shown in the pictures.  This would eliminate the suction.  Piece of cake...and no money.  :occasion-xmas:

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TravelinJavelin
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Last evening you had asked about the length of the axles. Your differential is off set a bit so the axles are not the same, one is 14" and the other is 14 3/4".

It is interesting that the axles are cut for "C Clips", is the differential/bull gear the original type or has it been replaced by a later one?

:wwp:

nut thats a good question all i remember is that the bolt heads were chewed up some and we smoothed back up some

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TravelinJavelin

hey steve when u say grind what would you use for a tool or do i got to see a machinist?

 

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953 nut

Take a look at this thread by @Shynon, it will be helpful to you.

 

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TravelinJavelin

hey nut thank you this will help alot to use as a reference

 

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TravelinJavelin

well hey found some pics when we opened it up last time and tell me whats wrong with these pics? i think we had it on the wrong side to begin with and you can see the bolt heads slightly chewed up a bit

wheel horse pic and guitar vid 001.JPG

wheel horse pic and guitar vid 002.JPG

wheel horse pic and guitar vid 003.JPG

wheel horse pic and guitar vid 004.JPG

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TravelinJavelin

you know i'm not the brightest bulb in the world and came too and now know the reason why i have C clips in the axles because this is not a 953 /1054 differential its something else and now i can't wait to open the case to see how many pinions i have.......a member on facebook just pointed this out to me after showing a differential on for sale on ebay i had been eyeing

 

Edited by TravelinJavelin
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953 nut
9 hours ago, TravelinJavelin said:

this is not a 953 /1054 differential

You are correct, it is a much newer eight pinion differential. No harm there, they are good reliable pieces.

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TravelinJavelin

well thats awesome to know this thanks Nut...........almost wishing i had a set of newer style shift rails now

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stevasaurus

Well, the 1st thing...you opened it upside down.  You want the shallow side down, not the deeper side.  The other thing...that looks like an 8 pinion differential, but I only see 4 pinions in the differential picture.   I do not know why your bolt heads are chewed up.  The differential is installed correctly, the bolt heads should be facing the input side of the trans.  Those bolt heads are hitting on the large gear of the mushroom gear.  It could be that the mushroom gear is not the correct one for that differential.  I would try to find bolts with less head...or grind them thinner a little.  Make sure your bearings are good...a wobble in a shaft could cause the wear on those bolt heads. 

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TravelinJavelin

yes i realized that too after my friend randy got nerved up trying to tell him but oh well this why i will be doing this this time lol:rolleyes:

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stevasaurus

The thing is...when you take off the deeper side, it pulls all of your detente structure apart and who knows what happens to the balls and spring.  :occasion-xmas:

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TravelinJavelin

right well i have another set of gears and detene ball and spring set well i hope i do i haven't opend the the other set of gears yet

 

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stevasaurus

I sent you a PM. 

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Pullstart
On 10/17/2018 at 3:24 PM, TravelinJavelin said:

woops steveasaurus i was think you were 953 nut i'll pay attention now

 

Not the first time someone has been confused for another...  :ROTF:

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TravelinJavelin

i'm hoping this weekend i can get a chance to really get going on it i've had distractions here and there and getting my garage cleaned up too so i will be taking pics as i take it apart and maybe between all of us wheel horse we can get my tranny back the way it should be and anyone else with a 953/1054 tractor

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TravelinJavelin

ok it has begun ......got the hubs off, got the  pulley off, band brake assembly, got the case split and opened.........that was a little bit of chore rubber mallet and finally she come and anyways so here are some pics the only thing i took out was the differential......all the gears looked really good inside other then the diff bolts had a little chewing again i noticed and there was some remnance of metal very very fine shavings to barely any but i could see where on the shift forks a vacuum could accure was messing with one and you could hear the draw it is has so anyways this is the start and next time will start taking piece by piece pics

wheel horse tranny 5045 001.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 002.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 003.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 004.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 005.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 006.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 007.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 008.JPG

wheel horse tranny 5045 009.JPG

Edited by TravelinJavelin
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stevasaurus

Great pictures...in your 6th pic in your last post, I see a difference in the height of the two gears on the right.  The large one is the reduction gear...the smaller one is a pinion.  It could be just the things that happen when taking the trans a part, but the two gears should be even on those shafts.  The pinion sets on top of a "C" clip on the spined shaft, and the reduction gear sets on top of the cluster gear.  The top of those two gears should be flush...and they probably were before you took it apart.  Just one of the things to make sure of when you put it back together.  :occasion-xmas:

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TravelinJavelin

yeah and so far no sign of the detent balls either .....so when i put this back together what would you recomend to bond to the gasket too.....last time i used a what was called indian gasket stuff 

Edited by TravelinJavelin

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