Jump to content
LengerichKA88

Commando 8 VS Commando V8

Recommended Posts

LengerichKA88

@953 nut you’re exactly right. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

It’s not knowledge of garden tractors that gets you initiated, it’s that crooked little grin that nobody can get off your face when you’re playing around with them that invites you in!

  • Excellent 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ClassicTractorProfessor

@Lengerich8:WRS: you have definitely found the best place on the web for anything Wheel Horse related. Nice tractor you have there, good luck with whatever path you decide to go down with it. I'm attaching a picture of my Commando V8, note the vertical shaft Tecumseh engine. 

FB_IMG_1539133412887.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Missed this one but will :WRS: and ask the  age  old question. .. that one for sale?:ychain:

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oliver2-44

YThats a good project to start into restorations. Some of the parts you may be looking for can be found in the vendors section here   The Clasifidd section here is also a good place to find parts or post. Wanted add.  Have Fun

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

@pullstart 😂

@Professor1990, thank you! 

@WHX21, not at this time 😂

@oliver2-44, Thanks! I’ll have to check it out! Luckily I don’t think I’ll need much, which could either make things easier or harder, time will tell lmao. 

 

The way weve got things situated right now, the tractor is in our garage, and I move it out to the drive way during the day so we have a bit more room to get around. I had my Radio Flier wooden wagon I got as a kid (probably 25-26years ago) hooked to the back of the tractor so I could take my little guy for a ride. Guy stopped and asked if I’d “take 200 for both”. I told him if he could pay me in “unmarked, non-sequential, 1 dollars bills that pre date the assassination of Arch Duke Ferdinand” he could have it.

Unfortunatly the joke went right over his head and I had to tell him “No.”  

  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Alright guys, I’ve got another question as it relates to my tractor: 

it would be considered a “short frame” model, correct? 

I just found a listing for a Wheel Horse plow, but it says it’s for a short frame and that’s it. I’m waiting on him to get back to me on the blade length, but I don’t wanna make the trip and drop the dough if it won’t hook up. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

The short frame snow plow will not fit your commando without a little modification (weld on an extension). I think '67 was the end of the line for short framed :wh:.

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca
1 hour ago, Lengerich8 said:

Alright guys, I’ve got another question as it relates to my tractor: 

it would be considered a “short frame” model, correct? 

I just found a listing for a Wheel Horse plow, but it says it’s for a short frame and that’s it. I’m waiting on him to get back to me on the blade length, but I don’t wanna make the trip and drop the dough if it won’t hook up. 

The early tractors are short frame models with 41-1/4" wheelbase.

The medium frame models like you have has a 43-1/2" wheelbase.

The long frame tractors like the C-Series and 300 and 400-Series  have a 45-1/2" wheelbase.

 

Your tractor requires a long frame blade although some models will fit both long and short frame tractors.

 

Dozer DNA of long tractor frame dozer blades

1966-1967 model BD-426 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle - replaced by

1968 model 6-1111 - Fits LONG frame tractors - Mounts ahead of the rear axle

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1968 model 6-4111 - First to fit LONG & SHORT frame tractors and first to mount under the rear axle - replaced by

1969 model [6-4112 & 6-9621]

1970-73 model [6-4113 & 6-9622]

1973-74 model [6-4113 & 6-9623]

1974 model [6-4114 & 6-9624]

1974 model 6-2131

1975 model 6-2132

1976 model 6-2133

1976 model 66-42BC01

1977 model 76-42BC01

1978 model 86-42BC01

1979 model 96-42BC01

1980 model 06-42BC01

1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here they are 42" wide)

1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide)

1990 model 06-48BC02

1991-1993 model 06-48BC03

1993-2001 model 79350

2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364

 

Garry

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

@953 nut, @gwest_ca

thanks guys!

i just went back to the listing to see if I’d missed anything, and now it doesn’t say anything about “short frame”, so I screen grabbed the pictures. 😂

I’m still waiting on him to get back to me, but I’m glad I asked first. 

C8C55F79-38C9-4007-BE2E-CB98168EBF61.jpeg

B91B9BE8-DFD2-4197-A750-E1E7CCEA8D0A.jpeg

FC94C3B3-8759-44D5-A356-40A56A118FD8.jpeg

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

That appears to be the long frame unit. Having the axle bracket with it is a big plus.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88
54 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

That appears to be the long frame unit. Having the axle bracket with it is a big plus.

 

A big plus for someone else... it’s sold 😩

 

ill find another one eventually im sure 

  • Sad 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

@Lengerich8 totally off topic, but I’m camping mighty close to you, until Monday morning!  We’re at the Winchester Speedway, for the Winchester 400!

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

@pullstart last time I was in Winchester was for a bathroom stop on the way to Ohio to buy Yuengling 😂

we usually go the other direction and go to Lincoln Park Speedway in Putnamville to watch the bombers, modifieds, and sprints lol

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DarylJ

The Commando 800 and 8 4 speed are very similar tractors.  It is possible a PO has intermixed some of the parts on yours, making it somewhat of a hybrid.  What caught my eye in your photo was the PTO clutch.  AFAIK, your version with the long engagement rod was standard on the Commando 8 and maybe early Commando 800s.  I have seen photos of Commando 800s that are equipped with a later version of the PTO llinkage.  The 8 4 speed from 1973 used that later  linkage, which had the lever that pushed forward and back, which pushed/pulled a shorter rod, which through a triangular pivot plate to the half hoop gizmo applied inward force to engage the clutch disk.  On the older version, like yours, a long rod directly from the dash support standard to the clutch was simply moved left or right, to engage or disengage the PTO clutch.  It seems to me unlikely that anyone would replace a later version PTO linkage with the earlier one....but anything is possible I guess.

 

As for the visible finned regulator......it is conceivable a P.O. may have replaced it at one time to a later exposed version.  But, there are photos out there showing the exposed fin version on the Commando 800....so it may be original.  The exposed finned version is what I have on my 8 4 speed, and I do believe it is original.

 

Without the tag being present on yours to indicate which model you have, you may never know what it is.  But, either way, 800 Commando or 8 4 Speed, they both really are nice little short frame tractors that will turn on a dime.  The seat upgrade, as shown on Racinbob’s photo, to a spring or forward tilt with spring is definitely worthwhile, too.  Makes driving much more comfortable!

 

Congrats on your great acquisition!

 

 

 

 

Edited by DarylJ
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Seems I’ve found a unicorn 😂

Thanks @DarylJ, but I have a dumb question: What’s a PO?

 

I can’t get enough of this little tractor, haha. I drive it next door to collect rent, to the mail box to get the mail, any excuse I can find to hop on it I find 😂

 

Ive just replaced the spark plug ( made a post about that in the Engines thread) and changed the oil, next step is going to be replacing the fuel lines and doing some heavy research on cleaning/rebuilding the carb. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
33 minutes ago, Lengerich8 said:

What’s a PO?

Previous Owner.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

@953 nut DUH! 😂😂

My background is in criminal justice, so I automatically think “Parole/Probation Officer” 🤷🏻‍♂️😂😂

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DarylJ

PO = Post Office

PO = Probation Officer

PO = Previous Owner

PO’d = put out in the genteel world, pee’d off to most others

 

Lengerish8, it sure seems like you are off to a great start with your tractor.  Cleaning the carb never hurts, especially with current gasoline tending to leave varnish deposits in the little passages within the carb.  It’s fairly easy to clean.

 

A couple of tips: when removing the carb on a Kohler K181, it helps to remove the air cleaner housing completely by removing the wing nut to release the cover, then removing the cleaner element to expose the two small screws holding the housing to the carb body.   After that, remove the fuel hoses, one from the tank and the other from the fuel pump.  If your hoses are stiff, they may crack and cause future leakage.  This is a good time to replace the hoses with new.  Bulk hose is widely available at parts houses.  After removing the hoses, loosen the two bolts holding the carb to the block.  They have to be unscrewed each a little at a time, as it may be difficult to totally remove one at a time due to tight quarters.  Once the bolts are removed, you will be left holding the carb attached by a small linkage rod to the governor arm. Remember which end goes where and be careful not to lose the linkage rod.  Lost rods can be replaced, but are several dollars each if you can find them.

 

After you have the carb removed, it is time to disassemble.  Before removing the high and low speed adjustment jets, it may be helpful to carefully (gently, with care not to jam them at the bottom) turn them clockwise until they bottom out, keeping track of exactly the number of turns, to help you when you replace them again.  If you have some carb cleaner, like Berryman’s or similar, soak the jets for an hour or longer, then blow dry them with compressed air.  Next, remove the bolt holding the carburetor bowl in place.  Remove bowl, clean it and dry it.  Next, remove the float pin, lift the float off, and remove the “needle valve”/fuel flow control valve.  If there is a little hair spring attached to the valve, take note of how it attaches.  Depending on how far you wish to disassemble, you may decide to unscrew the brass valve seat located beneath the fuel flow control valve just removed.  Same for high and low speed jets.  Dirt can hide beneath these brass valve seats and can cause problems later, after you have cleaned and reassembled everything else with the assumption all is clean and good.  Sometimes you can get away with leaving the valve seats in place, but usually not.  After all is disassembled, you have a choice.....wither immerse the carb body entirely in a suitably sized container for an hour or longer....OR, take a risk and blow it out with compressed air.  When I am needing a functional carb and don’t have the patience to wait for a soak, I tend to forego the soak for the blasts of air to clean and dry the carb for reassembly.  Frankly, this works a good share of the time, but on occasion I have found skipping the soak to be a mistake and I have to disassemble again and do it right.  

 

Next, reassemble using NEW gaskets.  I have reassembled using both gaskets and sealant, too, but if great care is taken to not slop the sealant onto places that shouldn’t have it, then use gaskets without sealant. As they say, YMMV (your mileage may vary!). Once reassembled, follow the disassembly process in reverse until the carb is back in place.  Take care to install the throttle/governor linkage rod before putting the cap screws back which hold the carb to the engine block, as you can’t put that rod back in afterwards without bending the rod and possibly breaking it due to metal fatigue.  Install the new fuel hoses using the retainer clips that hold them to the fan shroud and tighten the hoses using tiny, REAL adjustable hose clamps. Those little wire clips are not always cooperative to reinstall and a 1/4” nut driver sure makes installing the hose clamps much easier, too.  Remember to readjust the high and low speed jets at this time, using the settings you took note of when removing them.  These settings may no longer be correct now that the carb has been cleaned, but they serve as good starting points as you fine tune them.  If you have an engine service manual, or have found online instructions for how to set these jets, follow the instructions closely and your engine should purr along just fine.

 

One last thing is to install a new fuel filter in the fuel line and check to be sure the fuel shutoff valve isn’t leaking.  If so, put a new valve in also.  

 

You stated that you had, or were about to, replace the spark plug.  Good.  Also, this is a good time to replace the points and condenser. This is another process that has probably been addressed in this forum multiple times before.  Follow instructions carefully to be sure you have the points clearance set properly and your engine should then run as good as it is capable of running, provided there are no further issues like leaky intake/exhaust valves or compression problems.

 

You may already be very accomplished at doing carb cleaning, and don’t need any coaching, but for others following this thread who may not be, perhaps these tips will be of some help.

 

As has been said earlier, these are mighty fine little short frame tractors.  Except for the single pedal for brake and clutch control, there is little if anything else that they need to make them more operator friendly.  I’ll not be parting with mine anytime soon!

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88
20 hours ago, DarylJ said:

PO = Post Office

PO = Probation Officer

PO = Previous Owner

PO’d = put out in the genteel world, pee’d off to most others

 

Lengerish8, it sure seems like you are off to a great start with your tractor.  Cleaning the carb never hurts, especially with current gasoline tending to leave varnish deposits in the little passages within the carb.  It’s fairly easy to clean.

 

A couple of tips: when removing the carb on a Kohler K181, it helps to remove the air cleaner housing completely by removing the wing nut to release the cover, then removing the cleaner element to expose the two small screws holding the housing to the carb body.   After that, remove the fuel hoses, one from the tank and the other from the fuel pump.  If your hoses are stiff, they may crack and cause future leakage.  This is a good time to replace the hoses with new.  Bulk hose is widely available at parts houses.  After removing the hoses, loosen the two bolts holding the carb to the block.  They have to be unscrewed each a little at a time, as it may be difficult to totally remove one at a time due to tight quarters.  Once the bolts are removed, you will be left holding the carb attached by a small linkage rod to the governor arm. Remember which end goes where and be careful not to lose the linkage rod.  Lost rods can be replaced, but are several dollars each if you can find them.

 

After you have the carb removed, it is time to disassemble.  Before removing the high and low speed adjustment jets, it may be helpful to carefully (gently, with care not to jam them at the bottom) turn them clockwise until they bottom out, keeping track of exactly the number of turns, to help you when you replace them again.  If you have some carb cleaner, like Berryman’s or similar, soak the jets for an hour or longer, then blow dry them with compressed air.  Next, remove the bolt holding the carburetor bowl in place.  Remove bowl, clean it and dry it.  Next, remove the float pin, lift the float off, and remove the “needle valve”/fuel flow control valve.  If there is a little hair spring attached to the valve, take note of how it attaches.  Depending on how far you wish to disassemble, you may decide to unscrew the brass valve seat located beneath the fuel flow control valve just removed.  Same for high and low speed jets.  Dirt can hide beneath these brass valve seats and can cause problems later, after you have cleaned and reassembled everything else with the assumption all is clean and good.  Sometimes you can get away with leaving the valve seats in place, but usually not.  After all is disassembled, you have a choice.....wither immerse the carb body entirely in a suitably sized container for an hour or longer....OR, take a risk and blow it out with compressed air.  When I am needing a functional carb and don’t have the patience to wait for a soak, I tend to forego the soak for the blasts of air to clean and dry the carb for reassembly.  Frankly, this works a good share of the time, but on occasion I have found skipping the soak to be a mistake and I have to disassemble again and do it right.  

 

Next, reassemble using NEW gaskets.  I have reassembled using both gaskets and sealant, too, but if great care is taken to not slop the sealant onto places that shouldn’t have it, then use gaskets without sealant. As they say, YMMV (your mileage may vary!). Once reassembled, follow the disassembly process in reverse until the carb is back in place.  Take care to install the throttle/governor linkage rod before putting the cap screws back which hold the carb to the engine block, as you can’t put that rod back in afterwards without bending the rod and possibly breaking it due to metal fatigue.  Install the new fuel hoses using the retainer clips that hold them to the fan shroud and tighten the hoses using tiny, REAL adjustable hose clamps. Those little wire clips are not always cooperative to reinstall and a 1/4” nut driver sure makes installing the hose clamps much easier, too.  Remember to readjust the high and low speed jets at this time, using the settings you took note of when removing them.  These settings may no longer be correct now that the carb has been cleaned, but they serve as good starting points as you fine tune them.  If you have an engine service manual, or have found online instructions for how to set these jets, follow the instructions closely and your engine should purr along just fine.

 

One last thing is to install a new fuel filter in the fuel line and check to be sure the fuel shutoff valve isn’t leaking.  If so, put a new valve in also.  

 

You stated that you had, or were about to, replace the spark plug.  Good.  Also, this is a good time to replace the points and condenser. This is another process that has probably been addressed in this forum multiple times before.  Follow instructions carefully to be sure you have the points clearance set properly and your engine should then run as good as it is capable of running, provided there are no further issues like leaky intake/exhaust valves or compression problems.

 

You may already be very accomplished at doing carb cleaning, and don’t need any coaching, but for others following this thread who may not be, perhaps these tips will be of some help.

 

As has been said earlier, these are mighty fine little short frame tractors.  Except for the single pedal for brake and clutch control, there is little if anything else that they need to make them more operator friendly.  I’ll not be parting with mine anytime soon!

 

 

Thank you! 

The most I’ve ever done with a carb was use an old Chevy hub cap to make my old 307 louder 😂😂. That will be the next step, and I will be printing this^ to have with me on the work bench! 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

So, figured you guys would get a kick outta this: 

Decided on a name for the tractor last night: America. Because, it’s a Horse with no name 😂

 

Appearance updated😂

D4EAA5AC-43AE-4186-99A9-984CFE643881.jpeg

Edited by Lengerich8
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Suits it well!  

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88
57 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Suits it well!  

I need to find an Indiana flag for one side 😂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Alright guys, I’ve got another question, figured I should ask it here since you guys that are following know the story on the tractor.

 

Are there any other brands of snow blades that were/ are compatible with this tractor? I figured maybe somebody may know of somebody who knew a guy who used XYZ plow and it worked for them lol. 

I just don’t wanna tear up the tractor using the wrong thing 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I have a feeling that you’ll need a WH style plow frame, if you intend to use it in that matter.  They had the best design of all garden tractor manufacturers in my mind, driving from the rear (drive) axle housing, relieving more stress from the frame.  The brackets for the axle housing can be found or purchased new and can be used for a tiller AND snow plow.

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...