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Jesse Rieber

Uneven operation

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Jesse Rieber

I have a 1981 C145.  Recently it lurches in both forward and reverse and there is a smell like a belt burning.  I m suspecting that the drive belt needs to be replaced.  The tractor is a 1981 ID # 01-14KE-02 but I cannot find a part number for the drive belt.  Could this also be the clutch?  Additionally shoe on the small attachment on the engine (wish I knew the parts name) which is actuated when you engage the PTO and engages when you engage the PTO is badly word.  Where can I get a replacement for this, it is just riveted on.  Can I obtain a parts list for this machine and some pictures so that I can identify small parts by their correct names.  Finally, anyone know parts sources?  I have gotten a few parts from Tractos supply in the past but are there others?

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pfrederi

Welcome

 

This is the parts manual for you r 1981 C-145 click on the fuzzy picture

 

 

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953 nut

:WRS:

Perhaps this owner's manual will be helpful too.

 

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Jesse Rieber

I posted today and then looked at my C145 again.  I decided that the jerky movement was either a drive belt or the clutch.  I got on line and actually found a place that sticks parts and ordered a new brake (the little piece for which I had no name, a clutch and a new drive belt.  I suspect that covers al the bases and will sovle my problem.  Thanks in advance for your attention - Jesse Rieber

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wallfish
1 hour ago, Jesse Rieber said:

I suspect that covers al the bases and will sovle my problem

:WRS:

Not necessarily when it comes to the condition you're describing. Lurching in forward and reverse.

It's possible it could be the belt (which also acts as your clutch. The belt and pedal mechanism is designed to allow the belt to slip around the engine pulley which then acts as a clutch) Not sure which particular part you ordered as a clutch.

Check both rear axle hubs for worn key slots. If one or both of the key way slots in either hub is worn and wollowed out, it will cause the exact condition you're describing. Basically what happens is the axle spins inside the hub until it catches the key on the wollowed out slot. This will cause the lurching effect in both directions of travel because of the sudden engagement.

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Digger 66

Welcome to Red Square , Jesse .

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Jesse Rieber
21 hours ago, wallfish said:

:WRS:

Not necessarily when it comes to the condition you're describing. Lurching in forward and reverse.

It's possible it could be the belt (which also acts as your clutch. The belt and pedal mechanism is designed to allow the belt to slip around the engine pulley which then acts as a clutch) Not sure which particular part you ordered as a clutch.

Check both rear axle hubs for worn key slots. If one or both of the key way slots in either hub is worn and wollowed out, it will cause the exact condition you're describing. Basically what happens is the axle spins inside the hub until it catches the key on the wollowed out slot. This will cause the lurching effect in both directions of travel because of the sudden engagement.

 

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Jesse Rieber

 

Thanks for your reply.  You may be correct and I will not know until I install the new belt.  If you are right I have to figure out exactly what it is you are describing and how I fix it.

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Jesse Rieber
On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 4:30 PM, wallfish said:

:WRS:

Not necessarily when it comes to the condition you're describing. Lurching in forward and reverse.

It's possible it could be the belt (which also acts as your clutch. The belt and pedal mechanism is designed to allow the belt to slip around the engine pulley which then acts as a clutch) Not sure which particular part you ordered as a clutch.

Check both rear axle hubs for worn key slots. If one or both of the key way slots in either hub is worn and wollowed out, it will cause the exact condition you're describing. Basically what happens is the axle spins inside the hub until it catches the key on the wollowed out slot. This will cause the lurching effect in both directions of travel because of the sudden engagement.

 

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Jesse Rieber

I am, of course, considering your reply seriously and trying to understand it.  I am very mechanical - restored antique motorcycle and cars, rebuilt boats, etc - however I am very cautious in diving into certain work on this machine -don't want to make mistakes or damage it.  You sound as if you have more expertise in this matter than I - obviously - I will do some research i.e. look at parts manuals to see if I can identify that which you specify.  Beyond that, is there any way I can talk directly to you and pick your brain a bit?

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Jesse Rieber
21 hours ago, Jesse Rieber said:

 

Sorry to bother you again.  I just looked at the parts diagrams for my transaxel but do not see any part titled rear axel hub - there is a part named a differential end cap, this is the very end part into which a shaft with a key fit and on to which the tire rim attaches.  The other end of the shaft has multiple splines and goes to the centre of the transmission mechanism.  There are obviously two such pieces, one to each rear wheel.  Is this the piece to which you refer?

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WVHillbilly520H
1 hour ago, Jesse Rieber said:

Sorry to bother you again.  I just looked at the parts diagrams for my transaxel but do not see any part titled rear axel hub - there is a part named a differential end cap, this is the very end part into which a shaft with a key fit and on to which the tire rim attaches.  The other end of the shaft has multiple splines and goes to the centre of the transmission mechanism.  There are obviously two such pieces, one to each rear wheel.  Is this the piece to which you refer?

Yes the axle hub is keyed to the axle, it is what the wheel/rim bolts to, usually over the key is a "set screw" which should hold the key firmly in the axle, most of the newer hubs have another set screw 90° from the one holding the key in, Jeff.

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Jesse Rieber
2 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Yes the axle hub is keyed to the axle, it is what the wheel/rim bolts to, usually over the key is a "set screw" which should hold the key firmly in the axle, most of the newer hubs have another set screw 90° from the one holding the key in, Jeff.

Thanks for your response.  Are you suggesting that the hub needs replacing, or that the key needs replacing.  Keys are easy axil hubs may be difficult to find.  I do see a bolt going through the axel hub which I assume is the one you are suggesting holds the key in place.  My email address I JARieber@aol.com.  Let me have a look at this on the weekend and then, if I am still confused about what you are suggesting, I'll post again and perhaps we can expedite the conversation by email.

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wallfish
1 hour ago, Jesse Rieber said:

Are you suggesting that the hub needs replacing, or that the key needs replacing.

Remove both of the hubs and inspect them for damage in the key slot.

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Stormin

Jack up the back end so the wheels are off the ground. Engage a gear then see if you can move the wheels back and forth by hand. If you can then the key way in hub and maybe axle are worn as mentioned.

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953 nut

This thread will show you the hubs and a bad keyway as well as a method of repairing it.

 

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953 nut

Here is another method of fixing the key way.

 

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gwest_ca

The rear wheel hubs are illustrated with the tires and wheels in the parts lists.

 

Garry

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Jesse Rieber
On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 4:30 PM, wallfish said:

:WRS:

Not necessarily when it comes to the condition you're describing. Lurching in forward and reverse.

It's possible it could be the belt (which also acts as your clutch. The belt and pedal mechanism is designed to allow the belt to slip around the engine pulley which then acts as a clutch) Not sure which particular part you ordered as a clutch.

Check both rear axle hubs for worn key slots. If one or both of the key way slots in either hub is worn and wollowed out, it will cause the exact condition you're describing. Basically what happens is the axle spins inside the hub until it catches the key on the wollowed out slot. This will cause the lurching effect in both directions of travel because of the sudden engagement.

 

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Jesse Rieber

I took the left hub off.  It came off with a little convincing with a 3 fingered puller.  Aside from some surface rust, the key in the end of the axel and the keyway in the hub were perfect.  I could not get the right side hub off even with a 3 finger pully.  I heated it, albeit with only a propane torch, and have oiled it through the hole where the bolt seats on the key.  I'm letting it soak in oil overnight and will try again tomorrow.  If I cannot get it off I will need to find someone with  welding torch to heat it hotter than I can with a propane torch - that generally leads to enough expansion to separate parts.  So it may be that the key on that side was worn down and the hub has slipped beyond the keyway and is jammed on what remains of the key.  On the other hand, I have a lot of experience with just how little rush will keep parts from separating.

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Jesse Rieber
On ‎10‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 5:03 PM, Stormin said:

Jack up the back end so the wheels are off the ground. Engage a gear then see if you can move the wheels back and forth by hand. If you can then the key way in hub and maybe axle are worn as mentioned.

My machine is a hydro, o no gears per se.  Does you test work on hydro transmissions as well?

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wallfish

Usually if the hub is spinning on the axle, it should be loose and it wouldn't be locked on by rust.

If your hubs are locked on that tight, it's my guess that the keys and slots are probably good.

Have you been able to address the belt replacement? Not a bad time to look at those pulleys as well.

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Jesse Rieber
11 hours ago, wallfish said:

Usually if the hub is spinning on the axle, it should be loose and it wouldn't be locked on by rust.

If your hubs are locked on that tight, it's my guess that the keys and slots are probably good.

Have you been able to address the belt replacement? Not a bad time to look at those pulleys as well.

As I said the one hub came off and the key and the hub were fine.  I hav put it back on.  I replaced the belt yesterday and will put the wheels back on and see if that solves the problem.

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Jesse Rieber

THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED TO MY POSTING.  I replaced the drive belt, that seems to have solved the problem.  I also put in a new PTO clutch and brake; oiled the needle bearings on the PTO and put in a new battery - old one was dead.  Put the snow thrower on (it'll snow soon) all I needs is a belt for the snow thrower and we're ready for winter.  Again thanks to all!

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peter lena

hello jesse,don,t for get to lube up the chain drive gearing on that thrower, before and after use, and the double pulley belt frame mounts , the free movement will enhance the belt tension / drive, pete 

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