pfrederi 17,114 #26 Posted September 25, 2018 it may be after market but it is designed and looks like the original carter/kohler. again take look at the manual i only showed the part for adjusting 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #27 Posted September 25, 2018 19 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Have you down.loaded the entire manual? I just did...and I printed it to have in my shop.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,381 #28 Posted September 25, 2018 5 hours ago, ryanmfairbank said: @953 nut Thanks for this information...I decided to try this first, but I’m not sure that I completely understand this...I have checked multiple times and the point at which the points open is not even close to the “S” mark...so, what does this mean by “vary the point gap...to either side”? I’m not sure what I’m adjusting...the points open based on the plunger which rides in the cam, right? So how am I adjust when they open? What am I missing here? Glad you worked it out on your own. as you discovered the goal is to have the points just begin to open as the "S" is aligned with the mark. The video you found is great and although the manual calls for .020" if the push rod on the points isn't exactly right or you misjudge where the points are fully open that number can be different. Out of curiosity, what was your final points gap after static timing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #29 Posted September 25, 2018 @953 nut Thanks! This is been a hell of a learning experiencing...it took a lot of knowledge I didn’t previously have to get this far...the final points gap after static timing was .025 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,381 #30 Posted September 25, 2018 3 hours ago, ryanmfairbank said: This is been a hell of a learning experiencing...it took a lot of knowledge I didn’t previously have to get this far Just goes to show you that even an old dog can learn a new trick or two. I grew up on a farm and have been a mechanic (professional and hobby) for about sixty years. Nearly everything I shared with you is knowledge acquired here on RedSquare, the members here are wonderful supportive Horse-A Holics. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #31 Posted September 26, 2018 @pfrederi okay...I just got my machine back together and I’m ready to adjust the carb...the question I have is one of terminology...I have a main fuel needle, an idle speed needle, and an idle fuel needle...the manual refers to setting low idle and high idle...what am I missing here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #32 Posted September 26, 2018 So, I have two separate settings...low idle and high idle....am I adjust the motor at both speeds, recording the results and then doing a final adjusment somewhere between the two? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,114 #33 Posted September 26, 2018 High speed is the one on the top idle is the angled one on the side. idle speed setting is cross wise Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #34 Posted September 26, 2018 Thanks @pfrederi ... can I pick your brain about two other issues? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #35 Posted September 26, 2018 (edited) The first I’m completely baffled by...with the motor off, the throttle cable easily moves the throttle...but when it’s running, and I throttle up or down, nothing! it’s not that the throttle cable is slipping...it’s that there is a lot of tension on the Governor arm...I thought I set the Governor correctly, but maybe I didn’t... i just re-read the manual, and I did what it states...I turned the cross shaft counter clockwise as far as it will go and pulled the Governor arm away from the carb as far as it will go, and tightened... Edited September 26, 2018 by ryanmfairbank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,474 #36 Posted September 26, 2018 Here is how I do any governor. All done with the engine not running. Move the carb throttle shaft from idle to wide open throttle. As you go from idle to wide open throttle watch the end of the governor shaft and note which direction it turns - clockwise or counter-clockwise. Mark down the direction. Now loosen the clamp on the governor shaft. Hold the carb throttle in the wide open position again with your 3rd hand. Turn the governor shaft in the direction you recorded as far as it will go without excessive force. Hold it there and tighten the governor arm clamp screw. Done. Before you start check the governor arm clamp area to see if there is clearance in the clamp on the arm. If there is none there is a good chance it won't tighten enough to hold it's position on the shaft. May have to open the slot up with a hacksaw blade or file. The governor does create a lot of torque so it needs to be clamped hard enough to prevent slippage. Governors try to slow the engine down and the higher the rpm the more pressure they develop. The throttle cable is hooked to the governor spring and that is what increases rpm. When the governor pressure in one direction equals the spring pressure in the other direction that is the rpm you end up with. Garry 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #37 Posted September 26, 2018 @gwest_ca Thanks for the detailed response! I did actually set-up the governor in this manner, but I’m not positive that it isn’t slipping on the cross shaft...I will check it tomorrow morning and report back! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #38 Posted September 27, 2018 @gwest_ca @pfrederi I took a closer look at the governor this morning...with the motor not running, the the throttle control moves the governor arm freely...at idle, when the wheel moves, its only flexing the spring, and not moving the arm! I thought maybe I had the spring in upside down, so i tried it both ways...I also tried tightening the spring, but no luck...I’m assuming it used to work because the governor wasn’t properly set...any suggestions?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #39 Posted September 27, 2018 Here’s a video of the motor idling at low throttle and then being advanced to full throttle, with no movement in the Governor arm...the spring is securely positioned within the Governor disc, but is only flexing...again, with the motor not started, it moves freely... 2D1CC80C-C59C-4604-A4B1-A960D9CE68EC.MOV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #40 Posted September 27, 2018 I just took it out to run, and I have no power...I can’t throttle up enough....no matter the gear, I’m at a crawl... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #41 Posted September 27, 2018 I got it fixed...I’ll write a more detailed post when I have time... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarylJ 46 #42 Posted September 27, 2018 Not sure what ryanmfairbank will post as to how he resolved this, but I have encountered the exact situation he has been having. Governor spring tension ended up being the issue on mine, along with throttle cable being precisely clamped. Looking forward to hear what he found was causing his governor problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanmfairbank 26 #43 Posted September 28, 2018 (edited) Well, I basically just didn’t know what so was doing! lol I went down to my neighbor who owns a small engine repair shop...he’s deaf, which makes communication tough, but I told him what motor I have and he drew a picture picture of the governor and showed me how to adjust it...he also lent me his vibra-tach so I could dial it in...it’s running good now, but I have another problem which I just posted about...feeling pretty overwhelmed...it’s been over 2 weeks working on this thing and my grass is a foot tall! 🤦🏼♂️ Edited September 29, 2018 by ryanmfairbank 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
