No power going to starter solenoid

[Detour 3]

I’m trying to get my Sr neighbor mower running for  him and looking for some help. I have checked fuses and all three safety switches. I have stared to take off the engine cover to get to the oil pressure switch and not sure what are needs to come off around the coil area that seems to be holding the cover from coming off. Also what is the easy way to get to the relays. I can jump the starter but when turning the key there is no power going through the blue wire to the solenoid. 

[N3PUY 1,031]

What kind of mower did you say this is?

[Detour 3]

18 minutes ago, Detour said:

 

1990 Wheel Hores 520-H

[N3PUY 1,031]

First of all.... is the blade disengaged??   Do any of the idiot lights come on when trying to start?  Also check the connection of the wire thru the 9-pin connector going from body to engine.

 

 

Edited September 2, 2018 by N3PUY

[Detour 3]

Blade is disengaged. All the idiot lights come on. When turning key to the start  position one of the relays click. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491]

Click on the picture. Each circuit has it's own diagram.

Garry

[squonk 38,902]

9 pin connector on the right side of tractor whilst sitting on it. It's in front of the fuse box. 

 

[953 nut 51,628]

Is the motion control lever in neutral? Take a small jumper wire from the battery"+" to the small terminal on the solenoid (there may be two, one is grounded). If this causes the starter to turn the engine over than the cables and solenoid are good.

[Detour 3]

Garry I see there is a test switch in the Diagram any idea where that might be located and what it’s for. 

 

I have pulled the 9 pin apart and looks to be good and clean

[Detour 3]

I already taken a jumper from the positive side of start to the blue wire Terminal on starter and the starter will spin over

[953 nut 51,628]

13 minutes ago, Detour said:

test switch in the Diagram any idea where that might be located and what it’s for.

The switch is on the dash and all it does is test the warning lights.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491]

According to the operator manual the test switch item 3 is to the right of the indicator lights. It just illuminates the lights for a bulb check. They should all come on and the oil light will flash on and off.

The oil sender is not in the starter circuit.

Usually the pto switch and the neutral safety switch control the starter circuit.

There is a second file with the detailed wiring diagram above. It is the single page diagram but have identified the switches down the right side of the illustration.

 

Garry

[953 nut 51,628]

13 minutes ago, Detour said:

I already taken a jumper from the positive side of start to the blue wire Terminal on starter and the starter will spin over

Best bet would be to use the diagram of the start circuit that Garry gave you and systematically move back from the solenoid one connection at a time until your starter is not activated.

[Detour 3]

Okay thanks The  schematics should be a big help. Before I try taken off the rest of the engine cover your saying that the oil switch should not be the problem?

 

now I have to wait to get into his garge

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491]

Correct - oil pressure switch is not in the starter circuit.

 

Just noticed a mistake in the main wiring diagram. The start relay is not illustrated properly. The little magnetic coil in the relay is magnetic only when the coil is powered and that is when it pulls the contact towards it to activate the starter circuit.

[Detour 3]

I can here the relay click when turning the key.  I would assume that would be ok. Just quite haven’t figured out easy way to get to them to take them off

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491]

Page on 116397 starter relay. Click on picture and then again on the page that comes up to enlarge them.

Garry

[N3PUY 1,031]

1 hour ago, Detour said:

I can here the relay click when turning the key.  I would assume that would be ok. Just quite haven’t figured out easy way to get to them to take them off

When the relay "clicks" does the LT BLUE wire have 12v?  Check it near the relay and at the body side of the 9-pin connector.  Looking at the wiring diagram there are 2 LT BLUE wires on the relay but for different circuits.  Choose the one going to the starter.  While at the relay the RED wire is B+ and should be 12v all the time. A possibility is the RED wire is corroded off at the fuse block.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

Lots of things to check when the 520H doesn't fire the starter solenoid.  You've already checked the 9 pin white molex connector.  I would check the plug on the back side of the ignition switch too.  They've been known to corrode and cause problems.  Sometimes just taking it off and putting it back on gets things working. The ignition switch its self has been problematic for me.

 

If it was my 520H, and I've had threes of them, I would replace the the ignition switch and the plug.

 

Also, check the fuse box, lots of problems reported there.

 

Edited September 2, 2018 by Kurt-NEPA

[Detour 3]

Ok the starter relay does not click that I thalt was. There is one wire going to it hot all the time. But when but the switch to start no other wires become hot in the relay plug. I tried unplugging one relay and tried plugging into another on the motor no change. Not sure if all 3 need to be plunged in at the same thow. Switch seams to be good.  When turning key to start what signal should be going to the relay. Also when I turn key to start the volt meter goes all the to neg is that normal

[Detour 3]

I just had the the starter relay just pulled out from its black case to were I can see the relay coil. When I press the coil in starter will turn over.  Just not sure what wire triggers the the relay. Looks like all relays need to be plugged in so I can’t Rob one of the others. Could be just a bad relay not 100% sure

[Detour 3]

Two things that I have not gotten to is the oil safety switch and have not located the parking brake switch I can here it clicking. Coins any one of these be a factor

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491]

i think you may have a 1991 or newer model since you are describing more that one relay. Tractor serial number would be 1000001-1999999 for 1991.

Better look these diagrams over. More complicated.

Garry

[Detour 3]

I’m trying here I’m not the best on  tracing out schematics.  I do however appreciate all the help. Just trying to save the older guy some money. 

[N3PUY 1,031]

Print the "starter motor circuit" from the file above.  Looking at the diagram from the battery there are 2 circuits required to start.  First circuit is 12v purple wire to a relay... always HOT.    The other circuit is 12v to a FUSE,  then to IGNITION SWITCH, then to tan wire to SWITCHING RELAY, then to ground.   Be sure to check the GROUND wires.  Also from the ign switch ORANGE wire to SEAT SWITCH, Then Brown wire to NEUTRAL SW, then Purple wire to PTO SW, then LT BLUE wire to SWITCHING RELAY, then DK BLUE wire to START RELAY and then to ground.  Check the GROUND connections.  ………….. When you turn the key to START both the ORANGE and the TAN wires at the ignition switch should be 12v.  It's probably easiest to use a test light.

Edited September 2, 2018 by N3PUY