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RJC1965

520H for sale questions

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RJC1965

Just down the road from me I found a guy selling a 520H I have one all ready but would like one as a  dedicated for my loader . It looks nice runs good no smoke rpms come up good trans fluid clean only thing is it’s slow and the brake  barely works. Guy said it’s the belt but I get no noise like it’s sliping or bad hydros it’s priced at $475 with 575 hrs I drove it runs fine just slow I think it could be the way the linkage is adjusted. Has a 48 inch deck guy says it’s a 52 inch wiring looks good as well. No rust sorry for no pictures any concerns on it’s slower ground speed. It’s got gold stickers so I think it’s an anniversary year has the forward sweep front axle and the steering is tighter then my 97 with 650 hrs. Let me know what you think. I figured the motor has to be worth half of that? 

 

Thank you Rod 

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EricF

Loose cam / linkage on top of the hydro will cause problems with the motion control lever not being able to advance the hydro to full speed. Look under the seat for the linkage. If it's loose, you've found the likely suspect. Tighten it up so the cam doesn't wobble, so the motion control will work correctly. Then chain the tractor to a tree or solid object and see if the wheels will try to bite in and pull, or if the transmission slips. That will tell you if the transmission is good or not.

Edited by EricF
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ohiofarmer

 It very well could be the transmission belt. The belt is tightened with an idler pulley that is tensioned with a spring and those springs break.You have to remove the transmission belt guard to see it.  When my spring broke, the tractor would still creep forward on level ground...My solution may not be the best, but a rubber band cut from a motorcycle tube works for me as a tensioner spring

 

    The tensioner pulley rides in a plastic bushing, so make sure the bushing hasn't worn through or you could be facing a difficult repair in thin sheet metal.  I had to convert mine to a bronze bushing plus some metal fab to hold the bushing in place

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Skipper

deck and engine is well worth it alone. Go grab it ;-)

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rmaynard

You said that the brake barely works. Are you referring to the actual brake or the hydro brake (neutral position)? If it's the neutral position, that sounds like linkage. The actual brake can be fixed by replacing the lining with a new one.

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Pollack Pete

For his asking price,it would be in my yard already,no questions asked...…..

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RJC1965

When you put the motion lever in neutral it stops, I do believe it is the linkage and will possibly need the brake lining replaced. I will see if I can get it this evening and will let you all know. 

Thank you all for you input. 

 

Rod 

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RJC1965

I bought it for $425. I need to clean up the engine and trans, change oil hydraulic fluid although they were clean and full.  I did run and mow with it for a 1/2 hr and the hr meter was working so the 550hr should be accurate. See the pic below, I did get the deck spindle cover but am missing the discharge shut. Deck has new blades and one new spindle. In the up coming weeks I will clean it removing all the tins for engine and fenders for a hydro cleaning and adj the motion lever and fix the brake. Best part on this one is I only drove 5 miles round trip to get it. 

 

Thank you you all for your input it made the buying decision much easier. 

7C28B125-5F6C-43D2-914C-20700CF6DEA3.jpeg

CB7080A7-F0A9-4E54-87B6-542695C6BF40.jpeg

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RJC1965

58597756-9EA8-47A0-89F8-4ACBBF35AB05.jpeg

CB4D1B8C-0C0F-4C7F-A70F-3ABD13AFA924.jpeg

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RJC1965

4BCECFEA-A67F-4725-B356-837D675BC173.jpeg

2502FC6F-C775-4D4D-BAB9-2F390784AA70.jpeg

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RJC1965

No rust on the air cleaner or the muffler cover actually no rust on the whole tractor just dirt and grease 

5E576B01-6240-4E87-AE02-2E5C0F3344B5.jpeg

94275108-CBA4-40A5-8F89-A63D6C62445E.jpeg

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RJC1965

One other interesting note this is the second 520 I have and both  previous owners said the lights don’t work and they don’t know why on both of these I just pushed hard on the toggle switch and they worked I also sprayed some contact spray on the switch and no problems. Also on my new one all the  gauges work and the lights for the gauges also. Below is my other 520h with 650 hrs on it. 

C57F68C5-88C5-4033-9DAF-D57DBEBC3771.jpeg

Edited by RJC1965
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WVHillbilly520H

I have had several :wh: decks in the past few years and all but my bought new anniversary 520H are missing the discharge chute...looks like your new unit used to have a snow cab once upon a time probably why the footrest pad is missing, Jeff.

Screenshot_20180817-072915.png

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mmmmmdonuts

Great buy. Looks like a great tractor in decent shape. 

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WVHillbilly520H

Now you won't have to dismount that loader on the other to spin that 2stage I see photo bombing your new toy :handgestures-thumbupright:.

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RJC1965

I was doing a little photo bombing lol wvhillbilly it was you I believe that said I need 3 520s one for the loader one for the snowchucker and one to mow with. Well I am 66% there. Haha 

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WVHillbilly520H
1 hour ago, RJC1965 said:

I was doing a little photo bombing lol wvhillbilly it was you I believe that said I need 3 520s one for the loader one for the snowchucker and one to mow with. Well I am 66% there. Haha 

I had 3, plus 2 xi then sold the Xi's and 1 520, my Anniversary ain't going anywhere, it definitely helps to have at least 2 for a back up or extra implements, Good luck with yours.

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EricF

Looks good -- ought to clean up just fine! All that crud on the rear end is probably due to spilled oil from when the hydro was filled by the previous owner. You'll want to make sure the fins on the hydro unit are cleaned up and free of gunk and clippings... there's bound to be more crud built up under the seat pan and in the tunnel where the lift mechanism is, too.

 

The headlight switch might be the cause of the no-lights situation... or it could also be a bad connection or ground somewhere else, too. If the headlight switch is hard to move in either direction, shoot some contact cleaner into it and work it back and forth until it frees up. The flush it out with some more contact cleaner. It helps to put a rag around the switch and the straw on the can to keep it from splashing everywhere. If you can get a hold of some "DeOxit" D-5 cleaner, shoot some of that into it every day for a few days, and it will keep working. The DeOxit stuff is expensive, so use regular contact cleaner to flush the insides of the switch out first. The DeOxit stuff is better at preventing corrosion from coming back, but it will take a little time to get enough in there to neutralize the corrosion and leave enough protection to stop it from coming back.

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RJC1965

Eric’s thank you for the tip on cleaning the switch to keep it working. I figure it will take a full day to throughly clean her up I know that the engin fins and hydro fin need a good cleaning then full service after that. Then I can fix the motion control and brake. 

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