Jump to content
mikemc53

Pushing a 416H

Recommended Posts

mikemc53

Just got a 416H from my son-in-law that he's been holding for three years waiting for me to make room for it. It is pretty rough but it runs and was free.

 

Cut some grass with it and it runs really strong and cuts pretty well. Hard to start and spits gas through the carb when doing it but this morning it started up easy and went to cutting. Got part way through the lawn and it sputtered and stopped, like it was out of gas. I had just filled it so that is not the case but I will need to figure out what it is. In the mean-time, if I don't get it running I'll want to pull it back to the barn. I'm not familiar with this hydro unit or where the relief valve might be to allow me to push or pull it. I believe it's an Eaton unit.

 

Any help appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

No tow valves on Eatons.. But only go a short distance and very slowly...you may hear some clicking that is normal.

Edited by pfrederi
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
52 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

very slowly

Yes very slowly, if towing use a creeper gear. If the wheels want to lock up you are going too fast, let it set for a couple minutes. Sounds like you just need a fuel system cleaning?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
KC9KAS

I just read in a manual for a 518 H (1100 Eaton) that it can be pushed/pulled easier if you put the motion control lever all the way to "fast forward".

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mikemc53

Thanks guys. Got it towed...very slowly. It worked pretty well.

 

I believe it might be the fuel pump. My son-in-law replaced the original with an aftermarket that didn't really seem to be right. It is in the wrong location, seemingly a bit far from the tank. It was pumping really hard before and there seemed to be too much fuel, initially. It is now not pumping at all. When replacing it does anyone know where the original went and maybe what to replace it with? Also is there a recommended distance from the tank (or the carb) that it needs to be?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Some where in this computer I have a link to the OEM pumps but a lot of the fellas are going to electric ones. The OEM should have been mounted just above the oil filter on the shroud. A pulse line from the pump to the crankcase through a hole in the shroud. Pics are in order here, see if I can't find them.

 

fuel pump circled in red

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacuum-Fuel-Pump-For-149-1982-149-1544-149-2187-Cummins-Onan-Generator-Welder/282742282069?epid=1776923353&hash=item41d4c0d755%3Ag%3AON8AAOSwCMFaE~0A&_sacat=0&_nkw=onan+fuel+pump&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R1.TR6.TRC2.A0.H0.Xonan+fuel+pump.TRS0

20151114_180056.jpg

 

Better One

 

You will find more info in the manuals if you don't already have them.

imageproxy.jpg

Edited by WHX20

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tach-a-matic

disconnect the fuel line in between the pulse pump and fuel filter and crank the engine

 

If there is fuel then check the carb bowl for fuel- the float could be stuck closed (rare to be stuck closed but I have seen this happen)

 

If there is fuel in the bowl check for spark - it could be an interlock or ignition issue

 

If theres spark then its time to take the carb apart.  After 3 years it could be pretty bad in the there!

 

.

Edited by Tach-a-matic
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mikemc53

They had actually replaced the fuel pump with an electric one and it has stopped working. I am going to go back to a mechanical, if at all possible.

 

My son-in-law would run it occasionally to keep things honest but there is a lot that needs to be done to clean it up.

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
9 minutes ago, mikemc53 said:

replaced the fuel pump with an electric one and it has stopped working.

Fuses and wiring all good? By stopped working do you mean it is running but not pumping or not running?

5 hours ago, mikemc53 said:

this morning it started up easy and went to cutting. Got part way through the lawn and it sputtered and stopped, like it was out of gas. I had just filled it so that is not the case but I will need to figure out what it is.

If the vent on the gas cap is plugged the fuel pump will remove gas from the tank until it creates a slight vacuum in the tank that the fuel pump can not overcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

I use the aftermarket eBay/Amazon $20 version of the OE Onan pulse pumps, so far so good , now if it's a Kohler there are rebuild kits at well as aftermarket ones as well, Jeff. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mikemc53

So the fuel pump (electric) is shot. Will not pump with power to it, at all. It was a replacement and someone had put it right over the spot where the pulse pump was. I haven't decided which way to go on replacement so I have a few questions.

 

The pump that just died appeared to have been wired direct to the ignition - no fuse. It has, as does most electric pumps, one inlet and one outlet. If I replace it with an electric I will likely put it right where this one was but I will fuse the line. If I go with a pulse pump I am a little confused. I have seen them online and they seem to have two inlets and two outlets - not sure what to do with that. Also, the hole in the cover that goes to the crankcase, what would fit in there? I have worked on a smaller mechanical fuel pump on the C-81 but not familiar with these double line pumps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

The impluse pump has a fuel in fuel out and a line to the crankcase.The crankcase line carries the fluctuating crankcase air pressure to the pump diaphragm to make it work .  The hole was probably for that line there wold be a fitting somewhere on the crankcase the line would attach to.  (Hopefully plugged)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

On the Onan, they look as though to have dual inlet/outlet but in reality they don't and as mentioned above on, the back of the block is the vacuum port for the crankcase to "pulse" the Reed valve to actuate the fuel flow, and Onan also has an electric version as well, Jeff.

Screenshot_20180805-075317.png

Screenshot_20180805-075257.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mikemc53

How do I get to crankcase line? Basically what needs to come off? I can't figure how to get the "cover" off that surrounds the flywheel. I removed some bolts but it isn't budging.

 

Thoughts? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...