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Vincez

Electrical Troubleshooting - no start, no clicking???

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Vincez

1989 Wheel Horse 310-8 machine w/ Kohler engine...  I have been jump starting this beast for a year now; I just replaced the battery and it was running fine last week.  Went to jump start it today and I get a small spark at the solenoid, but nothing else - - Where do I go from here?

 

I connected a multimeter and checked battery voltage and voltage at the solenoid, reads normal, yet when I place a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals, I just get a small spark, nothing else. 

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gwest_ca

There are 5 pages here that will help you understand what you are dealing with. Click on the picture.

Each circuit has it's own diagram and much easier to understand.

One thing you can try is check the voltage when you try jumping it. Even a good condition battery that is dead will show 12 volts but any load will will draw the voltage down big time when the load is applied. Let us know what you find. I'm wondering if your charging system is working.

 

If you have the engine decal would like to know the engine spec number and serial number. Knowing your tractor model number is 21-10K806 would help us understand what charging system you have. You will see two systems were used and that should have created a different spec number.

 

Garry

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953 nut

The first thing to do with any electrical problems is to have the battery load tested (even a new battery). Next clean and tighten ALL electrical connectors including grounds.

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Vincez

I will check the battery under load later today.  The decal from under the seat indicates: Model 2110K806  - - S/N 35796

 

What I find strange, is that after I put in the 'new' Everstart battery, the tractor started right up - - just last week!  My suspicion is that the starter is at fault, but I don't know how to check that?  I am a "jack of all trades, master of none"  so following wiring diagrams for diagnosis, is not my strong suit.  The reason I have been jumping the tractor to start it, is I worked with a gentleman on this site in trying to replace the PTO safety switch with new parts; after two attempts at buying new parts, I could not get it to work, so I was relegated to jumping.

 

Is there anything that jumping might have caused a problem with?  Also, is there another method to start the tractor besides jumping the solenoid? 

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gwest_ca

This is the info that will be on the data decal on the engine

Kohler M10S-461521 up to engine S/N 1919902922 should have 3 amp charging system

Kohler M10S-461521 engine S/N 1919902923 and up should have 15 amp charging system

 

If you are jumping from the battery cable side of the solenoid to the small solenoid terminal and it clicks and the starter motor runs both the solenoid and starter are OK (You are bypassing the tractor wiring)

If you are jumping from the battery cable side of the solenoid to the large starter cable side of the solenoid and the motor runs the starter motor is OK (You are bypassing the solenoid and tractor wiring)

 

Check the engine oil level.

You have a switch in the engine that if working properly will prevent the start circuit from operating if the oil is low. Do not try to remove that switch until you get the instructions for doing so. It can be easily broken. There is a recommendation that the switch be removed and cleaned as a regular service. It is a float system with a magnet and filings from engine wear collect on the magnet and prevent it from working.

Garry

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squonk

Your tractor is almost 30 yrs. old. Along with checking connections it may be time for new battery and starter cables. They can corrode and deteriorate inside the crimp and look good on the outside. 

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doc724

Similar story.  On my C141, it was running fine for a couple of days after sitting all winter in the shed.  Went to start it one day, and only clicking.  Looked for the usual suspects, broken wire at the solenoid-it was OK.  Figured it must be the battery, after all it was only a 230 CCA and it was 11 years old so I figured I got my money out of it.  Bought a new battery, 360 CCA, put it in and nothing-just clicking.  Investigated further and saw that the starter drive gear was stuck in the "out" position.  I felt like a dope.  Took the starter off, made sure the drive gear moved smoothly in and out, put it back together and voila, it cranked and started.  Damm, I could have gotten more life out of that 11 year old battery.  To add insult to injury, this was not the first time the the starter drive gear got stuck.  Last time I was just dry and needed to be lubed.  I must be getting old and senile.

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Vincez

Gentlemen,

 

I want to thank you ALL for your input!  What I found was that I had applied some Vasoline to the terminals to keep moisture out and some must have gotten between the cable and battery post.  Cleaned it with some light sand paper and all-is well...

Thanks Again

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6bg6ga

A lot of good information here.  As pointed out check the battery and the connections. I should have said load test the battery as stated. If everything checks out I might suggest that one employ their meter and check the obvious and in my mind that means the safety switches and ignition switch. This is something that can be done easily. I would suggest that you disconnect the battery positive and insure that its away from the positive post. One can check operation thru the various switches by using the ohms position on the meter.  Most problems seem to be either battery or condition of connections. Glad to see you found and fixed the problem.

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Vincez

I got the tractor to start by jumping directly to the starter... I've been told that perhaps I have a bad "ground", however, I don't know where to check this?  Do I check for a ground connection to the "soloniod" or "starter"?  Or is the soloniod bad?

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The Tuul Crib

:text-welcomeconfetti:to:rs:

@Vincez  tell us more about tractor and 

 

:wwp:

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Vincez

The Wheel Horse Tractor w/ Kohler engine is: 1989 - Model 2110K806  (310-8).  It has been very well maintained and stored in a dry space in my garage, so very little to no rust.  I have the original Manuals.

 

I am not very good with electrical, but have all the wiring diagrams, just need some instruction on the proper multi-meter connections to test differnt elements.

 

Also, need to find out where I can buy a 'belt' for a 37" SIDE discharge mower deck (05-37sc01)

 

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gwest_ca

Take a look at this on multimeter use. If you still have questions let us know.

The only AC (Alternating current) circuits you have are at the engine charging circuit and you don't have a problem there.

Use the DC (Direct current) volt setting on the meter and something above 12 volts because you have a 12 volt battery. If you have a choice of scales use 20 or close to that. All that means is at that setting it will measure up to 20 volts or 19.99 volts which is OK for 12 volts.

Test the voltage across the battery posts. Black on negative and red on positive. Should have 12 volts. Now move the red lead along the circuit to see how far the voltage is reaching. The wiring diagram will direct you where to go. These diagrams will help if you do not have them. Each circuit has it's own diagram.

Post any questions so we can follow along and advise as necessary.

On the mower drive belt print out this diagram and have it with you when you change the belt.

A special 6-sided belt available from Toro or also Stens - and aftermarket supply company. This Toro dealer also handles Stens

https://www.rcpw.com/search/?quest=111178

 

Garry

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gwest_ca

Sorry - got the belt numbers mixed up. Corrected the link in the above post.

 

Your deck should have all V-pulleys including the the front idler assembly.

The next version of that deck used 1/2 flat idlers and a regular 4-sided belt.

Make sure which one you have as the early design could be changed to the 2nd design.

Don't want to see you chasing the wrong belt.

 

Garry

 

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