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MPH

Fuel Problem

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MPH

Got a Kohler 12. No fuel  to fuel filter. I pulled the fuel line from the petcock, and had good flow through the petcock. Disconnected line at fuel filter and blew through the line from the tank. I got fuel to the filter. replaced fuel pump, and still not getting fuel from the tank to the filter. What could be going on?

Thanks, from a new member!

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pfrederi

What model tractor are we dealing with.. (Fuel tank under eh hood or back under the seat??))

 

Fuel tank under hood take the input hose off the pump see if gas runs out.

Edited by pfrederi
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MPH

Tank under seat. Model 312 Hydro. Thanks for any help!

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Ed Kennell

The fuel pumps on the tractors with the tank under the seat will not prime themselves.    Fill the tank to the top and the fuel level will be high enough to prime the pump.

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wallfish
1 hour ago, MPH said:

blew through the line from the tank. I got fuel to the filter.

You can do that with everything installed in place and it will prime the pump. The check valves in the pump will allow fuel to flow right to the carb

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MPH

Thanks all! Will fill tank tomorrow and see what happens. I have always repaired my own equipment and this has had me really down! Glad to have joined this forum!

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wallfish

Glad you joined too. Didn't notice you are a new member so  :WRS:

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Daddy Don

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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953 nut

:WRS:            Couple of other considerations. The gas cap has a vent that will not allow fuel to flow if it isn't open.

Gas with ethanol in it will break down rubber parts including fuel lines. to find Ethanol free gas use this site.

https://www.pure-gas.org/

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skrusins

Have you thought of installing an electric fuel pump?  It has solved some of the peoples problem.

I put one in my tractor with a off and on switch acts as a prime. Turn if off while running it works for me.

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MPH

I had not thought of vent on fuel cap. I've been on non-ethanol gas for years. Would hate to go to electric fuel pump just, seeing as how I just installed the new manual one yesterday!

Thank you all for the warm welcome!

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953 nut

One trick I've heard of but never had to do is jack up the rear end as far as you can and then crank it over so the fuel pump can have a positive pressure on the suction side to prime it.    Worth a try.

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MPH

Ok, Vent on fuel cap good, tank full of fuel. Still no fuel to filter. Pulled the brand new mechanical fuel pump and manipulated the rod by hand, Voila! Fuel!. So apparently the cam is worn where the pump arm rests on it.. Time for an electric pump I guess. Anybody need a new mechanical pump? 'll give you a real deal!

 

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Ed Kennell

Are you sure you had the pump arm above the cam?

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wallfish

:text-yeahthat:

And now that you have fuel to the pump, it should work fine. If you took it apart again, pump the arm by hand with the fuel line connected and install it. Probably just vapor locked

 

Edited by wallfish
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Bert

I had a new replacement fuel pump that was out of spec and wouldn’t touch the cam lobe. Just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s right :mellow: 

 

 

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MPH

On to another problem. I did pick up an electric fuel pump, but before wiring it in, decided to track down ignition problem first. Some time ago, I thought that the solenoid had gone out. I replaced it, but it would still only start if I jumped across the two big terminals on it. Knowing that I need keyed power for the new pump, I figured that i'd better find the ignition problem. SO... here goes. with key in on position, I have no power to either of the small wires on solenoid. Pulled the wiring plug of the ignition switch and checked all terminal with the key in on position. No power at any terminals. To me this spells new ignition switch. Before I just throw a part on, could there be any other reason for no power on ignition terminals with key in on position?

 

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953 nut
4 minutes ago, MPH said:

other reason for no power on ignition terminals with key in on position?

Your tractor should have a fuse that feeds power to the ignition switch and another that will protect all accessory circuits like lights etc.

Refresh my memory, are we talking a "K" Series Kohler with points and a coil or a Magnum? If it is the Magnum there should NOT be any power going to the "M" terminal. If it is a "K" there should be 12 volts to the "I" terminal with the key on.

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Ed Kennell
19 minutes ago, MPH said:

 . No power at any terminals.

 

Does this include the B (battery) terminal?   If so,  a new switch will not help.

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oldredrider

You won't have power to the small posts on the solenoid with the switch in the "on" position. "Start" position puts power to the solenoid from the "S" terminal on the ignition switch.

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MPH

It is a Magnum. no power to any terminals, including B. I see what I am going to call a rectifier?with 4 wires that is mounted under the flange near the neg side of battery. I don't know what this is, or what it does.

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oldredrider

That description sounds like a relay. Check to see if you have voltage from battery to "B" terminal on the ignition switch. Refer to post #19

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Ed Kennell
27 minutes ago, MPH said:

. no power to any terminals, including B.

This has to be corrected before chasing any other problems.

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953 nut
2 hours ago, MPH said:

I replaced it, but it would still only start if I jumped across the two big terminals on it.

There should be two small terminals on the solenoid, one will go to the "S" terminal of your switch and the other will go to ground. take a small jumper from the battery "+" to the small terminal that goes to the ignition switch, the starter should turn over. If you do this with the key turner to the run position the engine should start.

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