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tommyg

Electric Clutch on a D series

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tommyg

Geez, it seems like it's been forever since I've been on here. Hope you guys didn't miss me too much. Based on the fact that I had no notifications waiting, I'm guessing not. Lol!

 

Anyway, I'm thinking of putting an electric clutch on my D-180. Some of you might remember that I replaced the original Kohler K series 18 hp twin with a 25 HP Kohler Command when I broke a rod in the original engine and could not find any replacements. With the modifications I had to make on the clutch linkage, and the fact that I've also outfitted this machine with a 60" deck, the existing manual clutch just can't generate the pressure against the plate that I'd like. The clutch surfaces are fine. Does anyone have any experience with an electric clutch on your D series? I want to maintain the 2 pulley system to drive the rear PTO. What do I need to know? How the heck to those things enen attach to the engine? They all seem like they're earmarked for a specific machine, but are they somewhat universal in design? Some photos would help. I've got a 1 1/8" shaft to work with. Plenty of length to make any forward/aft adjustments.

 

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tommyg

Anybody? I contacted the manufacturer of one particularly clutch I was looking at and they told me that these clutches are highly regulate for safety reasons and they could not give me any advice replacing a manual clutch with an electric. I’m just guessing at this point.

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pfrederi

I think only D-160s with Onan's used them...Makes for a small pool.  Sorry can't help specifically.  Don't see why you couldn't use a Electric PTO as used on Electros and other horses.  They have two pulleys. The mount is just a small metal bar attached to the coil assembly that is secured the ginning block.  See item 8.  That keeps the Coil housing from spinning the whole assembly is bolted to the end of the crankshaft

pto.JPG

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pfrederi

Tommy:  Check out my thread on Electric PTOs.  There are three assemblies. The field coil, the clutch plate and the pulley unit..  The clutch plate (middle part is keyed to the crank shaft.  The Pulley unit rides on the crank on a bearing so it can sit still while crank is turning.  The Field coil also rides on a bearing on the clutch plate.  The coil never turns and is anchored by the small bracket to the engine block.  The Clutch plate is hedp to the crank by a bolt into the end of the crank.  Not engaged the clutch plate spins with the crank (it has to it is keyed).  the field coil bearing rides on the clutch plate and it doesn't spin..ever.  When you energize the coil it magnetizes the clutch plate which is very close to it.  The clutch plate then pulls the pulley unit into contact with it and they spin.   Hope this makes some sense.

 

I do not like them because the engagement is violent.  i have to use on my sweepster tractor  c-175 because the engine is from a John Deere and has no thrust bearings on the crank. it works but I engage at idle but it is still pretty violent. No problem running the sweepster slippage wise, I do not know about a 60" deck

 

 

IMG_2462.JPG

Edited by pfrederi

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tommyg

Thanks, Paul. It just seemed hard for me to believe that one little bracket could absorb the rotational force of the clutch when it was engaged. Seemed to me that it needed to be bolted to the engine somehow. You would think that perhaps someone would have designed some sort of mechanism to absorb the initial shock of the engagement. Where I work, we would be replacing pump bearings and seals on 7 and 12 HP electric water pumps virtually every year. Then we decided to outfit them with soft start VFD's. I'm not sure we've had even one fail in the last 4 years. You would think someone could come up with a similar mechanism for an electric clutch.

 

As I was thinking about this project, I was reminded that when I replaced the original engine with the Kohler Command, I had to add a piece of metal about an inch or more to the top of the clutch throw arm  because I had to bend the control arm differently to get around the engine. By doing that, I decreased the distance that the arm was able to move the throw arm when I engaged the clutch. Now that I look at it, I might be able to go back to the intended design and just put a couple extra bends on the control arm. I've already added a stiffer spring, but it's just not quite cutting it. Might try this first and see what I come up with. I feel like I should be able to bog down the engine before the clutch starts to slip, but that's not happening currently.

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pfrederi

There really is very little rotational force on that bracket...if the bearing in the coil is in good shape.  The electric PTOs came on 12/14 hp units.  I am using it on a 17 (albeit somewhat tired unit).  It is just steel on steel I just do not know if it would hold 20+ hp against a 60 inch deck.  I have a good electric PTO sitting on one of my snow horses (she is a plow tractor and doesn't need it).  I could pull it and send it to you.  Should be simple to mount.  You could try it if it works we could work something out otherwise send it back..... 

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tommyg

Thanks for the offer. I've got a 25 hp Command in there now. I'm a little leery of something that's designed for half that HP. I think I'm going to try redoing my manual set up a bit first and see what I come up with. I little tweaking might be all I need. Will let you know how it works out.

 

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pacer

Just for what its worth ---- I bought an 18 Auto and a D200 a while back and the 18 auto had an electric clutch. It was obviously a retrofit as all the manual linkage was still there, as to what it came off of ??? Now that of course was on the beefy 18hp Kohler and I used the tractor for a while deciding which to keep, the 18 or the 200 - the 200 won out and I sold the 18. But it performed well during the time I used it - of course it did have that 'jolt' which I'm not to fond of.

 

Another 'what its worth' I recently got a Massey Ferguson 1650 and it has an electric clutch - this on a conventional 16hp K341 and aside from the 'jolt' it to performs well.

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