mikeeyre74 289 #51 Posted April 6, 2018 1 hour ago, Stealth126 said: Figured some other things out today too. I didn't have the stator hooked up to the coil yesterday. I hooked it back up today and now I have spark. With a few squirts of starting fluid it fired 3 or 4 times in a row. Primed the gas line to the fuel pump and turned it over a couple times. Nothing came out. The fuel pump won't even pull fuel 3 inches through the system. Now I need to find the fuel pump part number which I can't find anywhere. Not in the tractor manual or the Kohler service manual as far as I can tell. Anybody have any help with that? You don’t really need a fuel pump if you have a fuel tank that is over the top of the engine, behind the dashboard. If yours is under the seat, then you will need a fuel pump. Which do you have? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,120 #52 Posted April 6, 2018 That orange wire goes to the points. The heavy wire to teh small + terminal is overkill but it will work. So with this set up she will sputter on carb cleaner??? Then we are almost home. Frankly I would go with a electric fuel pump. If you want mechanical you could rebuild your current metal one or buy a new one that it is plastic. 30700d is the correct engine for a 1978 C81 Kohler OEM pump is now 4155905S (an electric can be had for less than $25) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #53 Posted April 6, 2018 Yeah. The tank is under the seat and the carb is above that level. Thanks a lot for the part number. I would rebuild my current one but I haven't been able to find the gasket and diaphragm. I need to rebuild the one on my 1067 too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #54 Posted April 6, 2018 Found a gasket on ebay for cheap. 75 bucks for an OEM rebuild kit (from yesteryear that somebody saved). I've got to find one cheaper than that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #55 Posted April 6, 2018 There wasn't even a gasket on this thing. I'm glad it didn't work otherwise I wouldn't have even known. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #56 Posted April 6, 2018 Do you know what electric model I could use? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #57 Posted April 7, 2018 19 hours ago, pfrederi said: Frankly I would go with a electric fuel pump. If you want mechanical you could rebuild your current metal one or buy a new one that it is plastic. Any idea what electric model I could go with? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikeeyre74 289 #58 Posted April 7, 2018 Most people use an Airtex 12v pump. $30 on Amazon. The Bravex is similar for half that price. At Amazon as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #59 Posted April 7, 2018 Thank you. I'll check it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #60 Posted April 9, 2018 After some research I ordered a rebuild kit from Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth, MA. 27.50 plus shipping and I can use the original. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #61 Posted April 9, 2018 Today in the mail I'll get my ignition and voltage regulator. When the fuel pump kit gets here in a couple days this thing should be running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #62 Posted April 11, 2018 Okay guys. I've got my harness all hooked up. Still waiting for my fuel pump rebuild kit and my carb rebuild kit, so it won't run, but it's turning over with the ignition. Now on to the next problem. I happened to unbolt the PTO brake because it was too tight. I stripped one of the bolts and only had it hooked onto the unit with one loose bolt. When I turned the key to the start position it started turning over. The vibration shook the brake open and it touched the frame and it shorted the ignition. There was a visible arc. There is no problem with the key off or in the run position, just start. I've double checked everything. Looks like everything is hooked up right. There is a good connection to ground. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #63 Posted April 11, 2018 5 hours ago, Stealth126 said: There was a visible arc. There is no problem with the key off or in the run position, just start. I've double checked everything. Looks like everything is hooked up right. There is a good connection to ground. Any ideas? Sounds like the engine is not properly grounded to the battery negative post. I usually try to move the ground cable to one of the engine mounting bolts if it is possible. The starter is the largest load the electrical system will experience so a direct ground is best. Then add a ground wire from the same engine bolt to the chassis to take care of the smaller loads. The C-81 engine sits in a mounting plate that is rubber mounted to the frame. There is a short ground cable between the mounting plate and the tractor frame. It is possible that an electrical connection between the negative terminals and the negative cables is not good. To isolate the problem hook a voltmeter to the negative battery post. Take the other lead and test each terminal on each end of each cable between the battery and the engine block. Try the starter at each location. If you get any voltage on the meter you found the location of the problem. Let us know what you find. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #64 Posted April 11, 2018 11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: To isolate the problem hook a voltmeter to the negative battery post. Take the other lead and test each terminal on each end of each cable between the battery and the engine block. Try the starter at each location. If you get any voltage on the meter you found the location of the problem. Let us know what you find. This section is completely over my head. To go back further, are you saying to hook battery ground to the engine itself? Or the mounting bolt that is between the engine and the rubber mount? Currently I have the ground from the battery straight down to the frame, not to the engine at all. Thanks for the help, and sorry I'm picking this up so slow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #65 Posted April 11, 2018 16 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Sounds like the engine is not properly grounded to the battery negative post. I usually try to move the ground cable to one of the engine mounting bolts if it is possible. The starter is the largest load the electrical system will experience so a direct ground is best. Then add a ground wire from the same engine bolt to the chassis to take care of the smaller loads. This part I think I do understand after reading again. Maybe the engine isn't currently grounded to the frame, and I don't have the ground from the battery to the engine. I will do this and let you know the results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #66 Posted April 11, 2018 You got it. Here is a pic from the electrical parts page. Item 47 is the short ground cable from the engine shaker plate to the tractor frame. That may be the one you are missing and it needs to be there even with the first cable going to the engine. The battery cable at the battery that says "to ground" is the one that should go to the engine block. It did not before and worked but rust, corrosion and old age has taken it's toll. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #67 Posted April 12, 2018 If you move the starter ground cable to the engine block the short cable between the engine and the frame does not need to be heavy gauge as original. 10ga or 12ga is plenty large enough because the only load on it will be the lights, horn and radio. Years ago the auto industry used uninsulated braided ground straps for such applications. The woven nature of the braid made they very flexible to withstand vibrations but hard to find today. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #68 Posted April 13, 2018 That original ground wire from the engine to the frame was still hooked up. I moved the battery ground to the engine end of that wire. Arc went away and the engine turns over faster without shorting out. Got my fuel pump rebuild kit put in. Pumps fuel like a dream. Put the carb kit in on Saturday (carb is taken apart) and we should have the makings of a running C-81. I'll update you Saturday. By the way, the diaphragm that came with the rebuild kit is half the thickness of the original. Wouldn't seal. Had to use the original. Thankful my problem was the seals and springs in and out. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #69 Posted April 16, 2018 Got the carb kit in the mail today. Put it in and she fired up for the first time in 3 or 4 years. Thanks for everything guys. Wiring is great. All the safety switches work properly. A puff of white smoke and she runs beautiful. Very little smoke on startup and none after that. Sold it as soon as it started. On to the next one I guess. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,949 #70 Posted April 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Stealth126 said: On to the next one I guess .....and the addiction has begun setting in to its host animal. ... Just found this thread and read the whole thing. GREAT job from all the tech helpers and you for getting that old hoss up and running again. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stealth126 54 #71 Posted April 17, 2018 Thank you. It has been a great experience. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyj74 5 #72 Posted June 14, 2018 Hows your Project coming along? I just pick on of these beauties up myself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
