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Danm1441

Plowing Questions

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Danm1441

This is my first year with a Wheel Horse 312 8. I am using the machine to plow my driveway, but am mainly winging it as I have always used only a walk behind snow blower before. So I have a couple of questions that would help me do this the right way. When I am plowing, I use only reverse and high range 1st gear. I also run the throttle all the way up. I have noticed that at some points if I am turning, the tractor will try to go straight ahead even though the front wheels are turned. I can correct this by stopping then turning the wheels, but wonder if this is the correct way to handle this or if there is some other method that would do away with this tendency. Running the machine at full throttle in first gear or reverse makes me think the machine is moving faster than it needs to. My question in this regard is should the throttle be set at less than full , should I

be using a lower gear, or am I just "gun shy" being a complete novice?

On the plus side, I sure wish I had discovered these machines earlier in my life. I still don't like snow, but clearing it with the Wheel Horse certainly is a lot more fun than any other method I've done. Thanks for any help.

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pfrederi

Usually you run out of traction before power.  With a gear drive like yours i would run in 3rd and change the throttle to fine tune my speed.  You want the snow to roll off the end of the plow.  Down side of speed is if you have hidden obstacles hitting them at speed and break things.  I plow the same are all the time so thatisn't a concern.  If it was a stringer area I would probably drop down to 2nd. 

 

Front wheel sliding is a common problem.  Front weights and chains help.  I have good luck with roller chain on my fronts.

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JoeM

A set of front wheel weights will help too. I have a 25 pound weight on each front wheel.

Keeping the turns less aggressive helps, I kind a plan my routes in straight as lines possible.

One caution, those front chains will mark concrete.

C145HFrontWheelWeightwChain1.jpg.9329ad26258ed9b86afb84d6811f0ea5.jpg

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SylvanLakeWH

I ran with chains and weight on back for last couple seasons...standard turf tires.

 

This year, no chains or weights as a test.

 

Why? Tired of dealing with chains, weights and scrapes on driveways from chains (2 asphalt, one concrete)

 

I have done two things different:

 

1. I plan straight plow lines with the snow wherever possible and

2. I dropped from 3rd to second gear.

 

When you turn slow down a bit - it will make all the difference.

 

So far, so good...

 

:twocents-02cents:

 

 

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Sparky

On my paved driveway with nothing to hit I use 3rd gear in high range.  For the most part I plow in a straight line. I also have front wheel weights which help with steering, doesn't turn on a dime but it helps.

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KC9KAS

@Danm1441 :WRS:

Lots of good advise above!

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ericj

switching from a 48"  plow to a 42" plow in the wet heavy stuff helps to. I'v notice that the 520 don't push the front ends as much as the single kohlers also. just my :twocents-02cents:

 

 

 

 

 

 

eric j        

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ebinmaine
16 hours ago, KC9KAS said:

@Danm1441 :WRS:

Lots of good advise above!

:text-yeahthat:

I'm going to be learning to plow my driveway either later this spring or next fall. So I'm going to follow along. I too have always used a walk behind  or a couple times, a full size plow truck.  Very curious to see what one of these wheel horses will do in my own application. Lots of interesting stuff said here.

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Danm1441

I'm certainly picking up some interesting ideas from folks here. And Eric, I can tell you one thing from my experience so far and that is that using the plow is ever so much faster than the walk behind snow blower, cleans the surface down to the asphalt much better and is just a whole lot more fun. I'm not telling my wife the last one though or she will think that my tractor purchase was for a "toy".

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ebinmaine
55 minutes ago, Danm1441 said:

Fun..... I'm not telling my wife the last one though or she will think that my tractor purchase was for a "toy".

You learn well sir.

 

Honeeeey!     yeah. ..hey... I'll be outside toiling away for a few hours. HAHAHAHA

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Tankman

"I'll clean up my kitchen mess soon as I'm done plowing so you can get your car out. Honest Hon."   :ROTF:

ADVERB
informal
  1. used to persuade someone of the truth of something:
    "you'll like it when you get there, honest"
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Sarge

One way to get it to respond better while turning - lift up on the blade just a bit . The weight of the blade will help it steer. Best mod I've done is to load the front tires with fluid and run the front wheel weights. I run ags on mine for the front - they just seem to grip a lot better in turns versus any turf tread but can tear up the lawn a bit if it's really wet or soggy ground, so keep that in mind. Plus, they just look cool, lol...

It's also fairly easy to fabricate a mounting point for some weights off the front attachment hitch and still clear the blade and hood when tipped - any increase in front axle weight helps. Just make sure the steering components are up to par and the front axle is properly greased while there is no weight on it , pick it up by the frame instead of the axle when greasing it .

 

Sarge

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ronhatch

Go for it ! 1/2 to 3/4 throttle., 3rd gear and in a straight line as much as possible. I see my neighbors with snow plows creeping along like they are blowing snow. Drives me nuts!

  I used to plow my neighbor's cement drive that had heaving at the expansion joints. I hit one of them going the wrong way once and just about went over the steering wheel. I ended up modifying the trip spring set up by relocating the lower anchor points on the plow frame forward about 1 1/2".  That gave the springs less leverage so it will allow the blade to trip easier. Worked out great for me.  

 I also have trouble with steering (maybe my 51 year old front tires could have something to do with it?) .  I loaded the front tires with liquid, but it only helped a little. Like someone recommended, lifting the plow works, which is what I do.

 On my blacktop drive, I run cable chains and 120Lbs on the draw bar (hitch).  My 867 has no traction problems.

Edited by ronhatch
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AMC RULES

Horselogo.jpg.6fc23866725c07d6b3634e6a73ba393e.jpg Hydro's make the best plow tractors. :twocents-twocents:

 

 

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953 nut
3 hours ago, Sarge said:

to get it to respond better while turning - lift up on the blade just a bit . The weight of the blade will help it steer.

:text-yeahthat:         Once you make the first couple of passes you will be able to clear what was left over where you raised the blade a little.

2 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Hydro's make the best plow tractors.

This is the first year that I've had a Hydro as a plow tractor and it makes it sooooo much easier to raise and lower the blade as well as changing speed to match conditions.

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Sarge

Manual trans is nice for overall strength, but the hydro other than being pushed by implements like a tiller is superior in many ways . It comes more to the front the more you have to move forward/reverse - constant direction changes when plowing with a manual makes for no fun and can lead to folks tearing up a transmission. Hydro is built for direction changes, as long as you don't get nuts with it and jerk them from full forward to reverse - that's asking for wear and broken parts. Biggest drawback is having to run the engine at higher speeds - I always use 3/4 or more throttle to prevent damage to the pump internals . All hydraulic pumps are designed to operate at full engine speed for a reason, as long as you follow that rule they can run for an amazing number of hours - the older style hydrogear in my 1277 has more hours on it than I'd ever care to admit to - but it works perfectly and builds more than enough pressure at all points in the system - no issues at all. A lot to consider when it's running rear wheels/tires/liquid/weights that are close to 145lbs of rotating mass, just in each of the tires. If you do run liquid weight in a tire, keep in mind that added stress on the axle parts and differential - it's easier to tear up those parts with that weight added quickly. Biggest added benefit of course is the hydraulic lift - but it can also cause more wear due to being able to pick up probably a lot more than the rest of the machine can handle - we've seen plenty of broken frames and other parts.

 

I plow reasonably slow, with the hydro it doesn't matter that much and if the blade is set to the right tip angle it works as it should. Keep the blade clean and waxed heavily - the stuff just rolls off and doesn't stick, even when wet. I'd rather fight maybe a few more passes versus damaging parts when the blade hits solid objects that are sticking up - the paved areas here are in bad shape and I already broke the hydro coupling on the D once when it caught a piece of concrete - keep that stuff in mind as shock loads can break anything eventually, including mangling the blade itself or it's sub-frame. The D's big 56" looked like someone was tearing out foundations with it, probably just ramming into concrete or hitting frozen banks - almost should have just scrapped it and started over but it's rebuilt and working excellent. When moving snow, I usually keep the blade tipped forward all the way or one notch back - if you're trying to cut through packed or frozen material you might want to consider a better cutting edge as the stock 1/4" plate isn't very hard nor has a sharpened shape to it, so they like to ride up over stuff. I put a section of pre-beveled 1055HC on the D's blade - night and day difference. Bad part - without skid shoes it will cut asphalt to an extent and move frozen gravel like nothing - lot of cleanup coming next spring. Think that cutting edge doesn't make a difference ? Try putting a bevel on the rear of your stock edge - it will cut a lot better for awhile until it wears round again. I used to tie bar bell weights on top of the old 42" blade on the 1277 - it helps a lot as well. Front tire weight and tread pattern does make a difference - too bad those front WH weights are so highly priced on the market. There are other options out there now, such as the Noma weights and others that are cheaper as well as adding fluid to the front tires. A spare, weighted set for winter is an option - all my machines steer easily when plowing snow regardless of the conditions - even very well on icy pavement with the blade angled - no problem. Even better on the D due to it's front axle weight from the iron twin, lol....

 

Sarge

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