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pyroplegic

sinngle stage CL score!

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gwest_ca

Nice find. Best guess at what you have

Garry

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pyroplegic

nice thanks!

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Ed Kennell

Nice tall chute.    You may want to flip the side extensions over.  They are on backwards and will really pull the blower sideways into the snow.

Edited by Ed Kennell
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doc724

Looks like a nice blower, but from the pix it appears to have been repainted.  So, unless it was sitting outside for a long time and only been used 5 times, why should it need repaint?  The fact that the wings are on backwards also makes me wonder as well.  Before you fire it up, check all the bearings, idlers and chain.  A few hours of maintenance will pay great dividends in the middle of a howling blizzard.  Also, flip it over and check the scraper bar on the bottom.  It can be reversed if needed v. buying a new one.  I have two of these and although they make a lot of noise, they work great on powdery snow, not so much on heavy wet slushy snow.

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pyroplegic

Yes it was repainted, and your points are great why would it need repaint if it's as clean as they said. It's also a brighter red than the 310,the original WH red looks nearly maroon in comparison.
Wings are on backwards? Left to Right?

Has anyone made a thread about electric chute modifications? Tried searching but didn''t  find what I was looking for.

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BOB ELLISON

Nice find I wanted one but my driveway is gravel. I have a hand blower but it picks up to many gravel and sends them like flying. There are other posts here on converting to hydrolic and electric chute conversation.  Go to main page and upper right corner hit search. 

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shallowwatersailor

The auger doesn't look too bad so it may be true about the amount of use. Here is a thread about motorizing the chute rotation. The simplest method is with a battery-powered reversible drill. Rather than cutting the handle off the existing one, I would get a new piece of steel rod of the correct length.

 

 

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WHX??
On ‎1‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 7:34 AM, Ed Kennell said:

may want to flip the side extensions over.

Every blower I get they are on like that and the book even shows the correct way! Guys must think they help scoop snow but obviously never tried cutting down a big drift!

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gwest_ca
3 hours ago, pyroplegic said:

Wings are on backwards? Left to Right?

 

Left and right are the same part.

Move the bottom of each one to the top.

Once you see it on correctly it will make sense.

Garry

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WHX??

:text-yeahthat:Wing tips should be parallel to the tractor.

Capture.JPG

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pyroplegic
8 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Left and right are the same part.

Move the bottom of each one to the top.

Once you see it on correctly it will make sense.

Garry

?? I can see how if i flip the wings it would make the last 2" bend parallel with the frame, to bring more snow into the auger, rather than now they're close to 90* out pushing snow away... there are 3 holes at the top edge you don't mean to bolt them up there like a gull-wing do you? or just raise them up a touch so the bottom edge matches up?
I see videos of guys skipping them all together. What  do you think of nix-ing them?

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WHX??

The idea is to have them cutting in the snow rather than pushing it. I don't think I would run without them. They increase the blower path to accommodate the tractor width better.

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shallowwatersailor
29 minutes ago, pyroplegic said:

I see videos of guys skipping them all together. What  do you think of nix-ing them?

 

Leave the wings on but flip them over. The single-stage snowthrower needs to be loaded with snow to operate properly and they help to draw in more snow. Attached are photos of my #79360 that I ironically never used as it was replaced with a 5xi #79365 that summer.

 

DSCF9859.JPG.d15c9498372ee04401ecde17de951517.JPG

 

DSCF9861.JPG.e545ccb8f85d641f27eba0e86dfc6a14.JPG

 

 

Edited by shallowwatersailor
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WVHillbilly520H

:text-yeahthat:

IMAG2990.jpg

IMAG2993.jpg

IMAG2991.jpg

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Sarge

I had to make a set for my old blower - without the wings the 1277's rear tires would drag all the snow down off the edges and not leave a clean path, plus it would almost wedge the tractor itself in higher drifts to where backing up was a real challenge. Personally, I'd want them almost a foot taller for working in drifts, but we don't seem to get much snow any more here - biggest one this year was only a 9" freak storm and the D's blade handled it fine. Blowers are nice, but between not having a cab and hurling rocks/dog turds I'd rather not use it ...lol.

 

Sarge

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pyroplegic

yes thats it. thanks guys!

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WNYPCRepair
On 2/5/2018 at 1:22 PM, BOB ELLISON said:

Nice find I wanted one but my driveway is gravel. I have a hand blower but it picks up to many gravel and sends them like flying. There are other posts here on converting to hydrolic and electric chute conversation.  Go to main page and upper right corner hit search. 

 

 

I wonder if you could mount wheels instead of skids and get it to ride an inch or so above the surface?

 

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Racinbob

When I purchased my 76 B-80 new the dealer didn't have the extensions installed on the blower. I inquired about it and he told me that Wheel Horse didn't recommend them on tractors with 10hp or less. Sure enough, it even states that in the older manuals (mid 70's-?). I told him that I wanted them anyways so he gave them to me. They really loaded the 8hp motor in deeper snow but once I converted it to a C-160 it was fine. The only drawback was if you didn't take a full width bite they would tend to pull the front end into the drift. One of the guys here made side plates for his that would help that situation out. :)

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Sarge

The older blower I have does have the steel side wheels on the height adjustment - but it always seemed heavier snows came after warmer periods that thawed the top layer of gravel - it always wanted to sink at times and eat gravel. I'd prefer the more modern version blower over the older ones, especially with the replaceable wear bar - the whole bottom of mine is ate up from rough pavement and rocks and it's housing repairs would be a major job. The newer style is easier to modify the skids or bottom for hardened steel skids which seem to work a lot better most times than wheels , although either I'm sure would work. One issue - frozen or packed snow makes them ride up more and more the further you go since they leave material under the blower - I've yet to see a decent way to solve it other than weight. The 2 stage designs don't seem to do this , probably due to their added weight overall .

 

Those wings have confused a lot of folks - they usually show up here or on one of the sites, it really takes a picture to understand how they should mount. I know I screwed one up the first time, had to stand there and scratch the noggin' a bit to figure out why it didn't want to work right...lol.

 

Sarge

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pyroplegic

The scraper is on the ground but the shoes and wingtips are floating. Should the machine level out by riding on the shoes? I have a well paved driveway, and a typical sidewalk to clear.

0208181504b_HDR[1].jpg

0208181505_HDR[1].jpg

0208181503_HDR[1].jpg

0208181504_HDR[1].jpg

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WVHillbilly520H
13 minutes ago, pyroplegic said:

The scraper is on the ground but the shoes and wingtips are floating. Should the machine level out by riding on the shoes? I have a well paved driveway, and a typical sidewalk to clear.

0208181504b_HDR[1].jpg

0208181505_HDR[1].jpg

0208181503_HDR[1].jpg

0208181504_HDR[1].jpg

The scraper should be set to about 1/4" above your paved surface with the skid shoes being the only contact points, and yes the wings are "floating", set the skid shoes to be "level" with the tractor when setting on the pavement, refer to my last pic above zoom in on the 1 on the left of pic you can just see the light coming through under the scraper, the reason I say 1/4" is there's a good chance the pavement isn't perfectly level and this will help save the scraper I used 2 pieces of 1/4" thick steel under the scraper let the blower down and adjust the shoes, Jeff.

Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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WHX??

Also want to check the chain tension and oil after every use. Chain adjustment is done with the idler circled and speaking of idlers check them often for looseness. They get water in them and wear quickly but replacement ones are at TSC.  

5a7cb86788997_0208181505_HDR1_jpg_c5729a101734205413f6a2c8e3789710.jpg

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shallowwatersailor

Another "tool" to use to set the height are paint stirrers from Lowes/HD/paint store. The small gallon-can ones are 1/8" thick and handy for walk-behind snowblowers. For a tractor-mounted snowthrower/snowblower the five-gallon stirrers are about 1/4".

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Sarge

That blower seems to be sitting sort of "uphill" - like the front axle height is too low. Maybe aftermarket/off-brand tires ? If the tractor isn't level and at proper height, the blower's box section doesn't sit flat either, I had mine too far the other way at first and all it wanted to do was dig at the ground or actually hit the auger on the pavement at times. Turns out it was the wrong frame mount (older models) so some fab work had to be done to fit it correctly. I do know if the wear bar is worn down too far they can't sit correctly, want to throw the snow underneath the tractor as well as ride up on the snow badly. It's snow (pun intended) to work on them in the cold, but sometimes it takes some work to get them tuned properly to fit with the tractor.

 

Sarge

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