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Nothin I can add here but:handgestures-thumbupright: !

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:woohoo: my man Dan is starting his resto thread for the Raider!  Thanks for getting this rolling so that the rest of the community can enjoy it as you progress.  Do you want to share the end objectives with it—at least as you see it at this point? Or would your rather surprise the :rs:faithful as you go?  I can’t wait to see you work your magic on another fine machine and I will be not only following this thread but hopefully getting my hands dirty at least once on this project if you’ll allow me...:popcorn:

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Looking good Dan, sure hope it will be ready to plow, not spend the rest of its days on a trailer Queen  :ychain: If you have seen some of Dan's work you would all know what I'm talking about, top notch resto's

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Good work, Dan! It'll be good as new when you're done. 

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Great job thus far. Should be a pretty sharp tractor when your done!

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Maybe some pics of how that PTO was done off the flywheel side Dan. That's just something you don't see that often on a horse. Was it something homemade or some kind of thing from C-F in a kit form? If I remember right the HY pump mount was homemade? I CRS these days so don't remember how the lift cylinder/rock shaft was set up either?

 I think the rest of the furrow dogs here can attest to the value of  HY lift at the end of a run!

10 hours ago, Achto said:

brazed a nut on the end of the cable

Reminder to have an extra lift cable on hand! Brazing a nut on the end of Tom's cable did not work so well! :)

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:bow-blue: That’s going to be one fine rig Dan .

 

:scratchead: Maybe I should ship you the Cockshutt....at least I know it’d be done right :) .

I don’t think Fastenal world ship it though :lol: !

 

BA8DF3C3-6CEE-4EE7-8579-CF108426BD4F.jpeg.e554a93c4e401649781f50fe0abeb8aa.jpeg

Edited by ACman
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Careful @ACman ol’ Dan is liable to hook up the big trailer and come and get it!  He has the equipment at his disposal to bring that thing right back here to Cheddar Country!:ph34r:

 

These pics are elsewhere on the forum but I’ll share them again here given the fact that we are slightly :text-offtopic:...

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This is Dan’s beauty of a tractor but it earns is keep as a puller.  Dan was awesome to give Caleb some seat time...

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And Zac too!

 

Dan’s not only a craftsman (as seen in this beautiful machine) but he is one nice dude.  My kids talked about that for weeks! :thanks: Dan 

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Looking good Dan! I'll be here following along on this one too.

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17 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

 I can’t wait to see you work your magic on another fine machine and I will be not only following this thread but hopefully getting my hands dirty at least once on this project if you’ll allow me...:popcorn:

 

You're welcome to stop by any time Josh.:handgestures-thumbupright: You'll have to let me know where you'd like to jump in - body work, wrenching, or what ever.

 

13 hours ago, Shynon said:

Looking good Dan, sure hope it will be ready to plow, not spend the rest of its days on a trailer Queen  :ychain:

 

Thanks for the complement Tom. No worries on it still being a plow tractor, I'm not afraid to get a new set of coveralls dirty.

 

9 hours ago, WHX14 said:

Maybe some pics of how that PTO was done off the flywheel side Dan. That's just something you don't see that often on a horse.

 

I'll be getting to that. I also want to make a belt guard for it, I don't really like the idea of it hanging out there unguarded.

 

6 hours ago, ACman said:

:scratchead: Maybe I should ship you the Cockshutt....at least I no it’d be done right :) .

I don’t think Fastenal world ship it though :lol: !

 

BA8DF3C3-6CEE-4EE7-8579-CF108426BD4F.jpeg.e554a93c4e401649781f50fe0abeb8aa.jpeg

 

Jeff, if my play cash account was a little larger I would be sending you a PM about getting that beauty into my hands.You're not that far away, heck we went all the way to Niagra Falls for the Cockshutt 20 Deluxe. I would absolutely love to add a diesel powered round nose Cockshutt to my collection.

 

6 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

Dan’s not only a craftsman (as seen in this beautiful machine) but he is one nice dude.  My kids talked about that for weeks! :thanks: Dan 

 

Thank's Josh, your kids are great. I really like their enthusiasm for tractors.

 

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I'll be attending restoration class with everybody else as you build this. IF Josh says you're good, you must be good. Judging by how awful (:D) the Cockshutt looks. I can tell this is going to be something to watch. I was looking forward to doing a restoration this spring on one of my Wh's , now I'm not so sure. You guys set a high bar here.  Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder while you do your work. Am looking forward to watching the progress.

I amazed already at how you don't get your parts inventory mixed up, looks like you got an awful lot of red stuff laying on the floor on the "dismantle" picture. If that were me, I'd end up with a bigger tractor than I started with cause I'd have extra parts in it..:D

Edited by cpete1
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14 hours ago, cpete1 said:

I amazed already at how you don't get your parts inventory mixed up, looks like you got an awful lot of red stuff laying on the floor on the "dismantle" picture. If that were me, I'd end up with a bigger tractor than I started with cause I'd have extra parts in it..:D

 

I work best in what I like to call "Organized Chaos". :lol:

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There’s that line that we like to use Dan and applies more than I suppose we would like but...it’s an oxymoron that works for us!:happy-partydance:

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I have used cables successfully that I have made by cutting to length, and pressing on the ends a piece of 3/8 (soft) stock about 3/8 to 1/2 long with a hole drilled in it that the cable will just go through (as little clearance as possible), and pressing it as tightly as possible onto the cable. If cable is plastic coated, IT MUST BE STRIPPED so it is directly on the cable, and not on the plastic coating! The plastic will stretch and release the steel bead that was just pressed.

 

I never use heat on cable as it will either draw it back (soften) or or make it hard (brittle).

 

I just use my 20 ton press to mash the beads on the cable.         Ron

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8 hours ago, Achto said:

 

I work best in what I like to call "Organized Chaos". :lol:

 

7 hours ago, PeacemakerJack said:

There’s that line that we like to use Dan and applies more than I suppose we would like but...it’s an oxymoron that works for us!:happy-partydance:

 

 

I try to stay organized. I do. Really. And every once in a while I succeed.... for a few minutes.....

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I spent some time cleaning up parts, cleaning grease off to make sand blasting go easier, and welding up unwanted holes & cracks. One said project was the battery box. The rear strap was worn pretty thin and there was one of the strap bolts missing.

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A 5/16" pilot drill bit works great for drilling out spot welds to separate parts. It allows you to only drill through the top piece of metal and not through the second piece. This is the method that I used to remove the old strap from the battery box. After I made the new strap I drilled holes through it at about the location of the old spot welds and did a blind weld through the hole to attach my new piece. For the bolts on the other end I heated some 1/4" stock and flattened about a 1/2" inch on one end. Then cut it to length, threaded it and welded it in place. As long as I was replacing one, I decided to replace them both.

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After sand blasting the front rims I was graced with this wonderful surprise.

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Now I have other rims and I could have just as easily chucked this one, but where's the fun in that.:D Instead I decided to see if I could fix it. Every time that I touched it with the welder, the holes got bigger until I finally found some good metal. I did what I call noodle welding for a while and then I was able to get some good beads going. I was finally able to get the holes closed up and then it was grinder time. It was pretty time consuming, but here's the end result.

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A couple coats of urethane primer should take out the last little imperfections.

 

I also made a new belt brake for bottom of the guard, some thing that I should have done before disassembly I guess. Which leads me to a question. Does anyone know what the distance from the edge of the guard to the end of the bottom belt brake is? I want to make sure that I have it positioned correctly before I weld it.

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Now to sit down & watch some of @stevasaurus's video's before I tear the tranny down.

Edited by Achto
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Nice job on the repairs. I have found that using a copper backing makes welding the wheels much easier. I can give you the dimension on the break tab tomorrow afternoon.

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Same thing on my 1067 battery box Dan, back strap was partially gone by years ago batts but after some cleaning I liked the old school looked of old metal. I just took some 1/4-20's flattened them on the shank end and BRAZED them to the box with your angle hold in!

 Funny how those rims held air even with tubes.I woulda thought those would have been post cloride days no??

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1 hour ago, WHX14 said:

 Funny how those rims held air even with tubes.I woulda thought those would have been post cloride days no??

 

I believe it should be post chloride days. Just years of neglect I guess.

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Thanks Dan for the detailed explanation of what you did on both repairs—cool! You can mark it down that the battery box area of nearly every tractor more than 15 years old is going to show some damage and often much of the metal below it.  Glad you were able to get yours repaired so nicely...

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@Achto the measurement is 2 3/8".

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1 hour ago, JPWH said:

@Achto the measurement is 2 3/8"

 

Thank you for getting this measurement for me!!

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No problem. I don't get to help others on here much but I do what I can.

 

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